Mash Tun 101build A Gmk Ss False Bottom

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GMK

BrewInn Barossa:~ Home to GMKenterprises ~
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OK - thought i would post a rundown on Making Tangent's Mash Tun.
Hope this helps some of the Tool Challenged out there.

BitsNeeded.jpg
1st Pic is parts Needed.
There is a Phills False Bottom bought from Grain & Grape from there 20% off sale.
a SS Panel ext 3/4" BSP with 1/2" bsp straight thread.
The KeepCold Tap has already been removed.
We use the 2 brass locknuts from the brass elbow provided with the false bottom and the 2 rubber washers from the KeepCold Tap.

Measuer the gap in the hole from the back to the front.
gap.JPG

Now set up the panel - 3/4"outside, brass washer (gap to 2 brass locknuts that are nipped up to each other so they dont move).
gaplocked.JPG

This enables us to use the rubber washer - ss washer - ss locknut and tighten up the lock nut on the back and this will pull the back upto the the two nuts (that are nipped and also pull tight on the front 3/4"face - Hope that makes sense)

Then remove the brass elbow - and fit the 1/2" BSP SS Elbow - (note that this was the first problem encountered. The top of the brass elbow sits 30mm above the false bottom - where as the 1/2" BSP SS Elbow sits 45mm above - now need to get the Hose to bend to fit)
Next i cut the SS 1/2" nipples down so they are not as long and screwd one into the elbow female.
Then u fit a 15mm 1/2" socket - i had to cut the 35mm Socket down - onto the panel ext. This socket will allow you to conet the 1/2" barb and allow you to remove the false bottom for cleaning.

Hard Part - had to bend the 12mm flex master Beer Line into a bit of an S to fit.
Goes onto each Cut down Nipple - used Boiling water to bend/shape the flexmaster hose into an S shape.

Here is a pic of the Finished Inside with boiling water in it to:
- test for leaks
- help the hose set into an S
- just need to remove hose and fit clamps and crimp.
Inside.JPG

and here is teh outside - it is fitted with a 3/4" male BSP threaded Nylex Snaplock Garden Hose Fitting.
Outside.JPG
This allows Hoses to be made up with females and allows the brew gear to be snapped together and apart for easy cleaning. I use this exclusively on my All Grain Setup. Works really well.....

All Up Costing;
KeepCold Cooler 78.00
SS Phills False Bottom 49.99 or 40.00with 20% off plus 10.00 postage
GMK's Bits and Pieces - this is at cost price...
60.00 plus 10.00 freight for all SS Stuff:
- 1/2" BSP Elbow
- 3 x SS 1/2" locknuts
- 2 x SS 1/2" Nipples
- 3/4" SS Ball Valve
- 3/4" Male BSP Nylex Fitting.
- flexmaster 12mm Line free.

Time was around 1.5 Hours.

Therefore TANGENT your Mash Tun is Now Ready.

Hope this helps some others ...

Now i need to make Master Yoda's..... :beerbang:
 
GMK.

If that beer line is flexible the FB has a very real chance of lifting or shifting on you. Every time you stir or bump it from the top you're probably going to introduce particles under it.

It's quite possible to fit them with hard piping. All you need is some 1/2 inch copper and compression fittings. The trick is cutting and flaring the copper pipe to the correct length and drop. You'd need a crowbar to move it this way. ;)

Works on round coolers as well. Photos will tell the story. :beerbang:

DSC00751.JPG


DSC00769.JPG
 
I understand what u are saying - but it will not move - it is semi rigid.
The copper pipe stuff is way too hard to bend etc.

i have a similar hose bent in my mash tun - worked for over a year now - no worries.

Trust me taht there is downward pressure on the false bottom.
Even more so when it is filled with grain.

Also - i dont like teh brass fittings - whole idea is to make it out of Stainless.
 
You don't need to bend the copper pipe. You only need to flare each end.

Just put the brass elbow on the FB on a pipe thread with a hex nut on either side. Adjust the height of the elbow to match the bulkhead height out of the side of the vessel. Leave some room for play on the FB and when you've joined to the bulkhead turn the top hex nut on the FB clockwise to tension the whole thing downwards.

Downwards pressure isn't the issue. It's the fact the whole FB can and probably will move when stirring the mash. You only need bump the pipe or elbow a couple of times and you can let flour and fines under the FB. Very real chance it can skip a couple of mm, particularly as the semi rigid plastic pipe becomes less rigid with 60+ degree heat. However if it works for you, all well and good. :D

Doing it with copper and brass couldn't be easier. So what are your issues with brass? Is it you don't sell the fittings? :unsure: Sorry GMK. I had no intention of raining on your latest monetary parade. ;)

Just letting a few brewers know that they'd probably save a few bob in the DIY sense. That said I'm sure that GMK's methods are sound. :lol:

Warren -
 
Woo Hoo Ken! :D
:beer:

(i just want to add that I'm not "tool challenged" in expertise, only actual tools and parts)

It's going to be a sad day for the mayo buckets.
I don't know if I should keep them for double brew days or donate them to a young brewing jedi. :)

edit - I've got to add that Ken helped me with my fetish for stainless steel. It was one of my requirements & he also kindly pointed out the 20% off sale at G&G where I got excellent service :)
 
here is what i did with my mash ton

Works a treat

and NO the mash is not direct heated at all :)

cheers
 
That's pretty slick, Tony. I like it.
 
warrenlw63 said:
You don't need to bend the copper pipe. You only need to flare each end.

Just put the brass elbow on the FB on a pipe thread with a hex nut on either side. Adjust the height of the elbow to match the bulkhead height out of the side of the vessel. Leave some room for play on the FB and when you've joined to the bulkhead turn the top hex nut on the FB clockwise to tension the whole thing downwards.

Downwards pressure isn't the issue. It's the fact the whole FB can and probably will move when stirring the mash. You only need bump the pipe or elbow a couple of times and you can let flour and fines under the FB. Very real chance it can skip a couple of mm, particularly as the semi rigid plastic pipe becomes less rigid with 60+ degree heat. However if it works for you, all well and good. :D

Doing it with copper and brass couldn't be easier. So what are your issues with brass? Is it you don't sell the fittings? :unsure: Sorry GMK. I had no intention of raining on your latest monetary parade. ;)

Just letting a few brewers know that they'd probably save a few bob in the DIY sense. That said I'm sure that GMK's methods are sound. :lol:

Warren -
[post="98510"][/post]​


Thats OK - i just dont like Brass - and the lead in it.
IMHO i cant see the point in having a ss False Bottom, ss ball valve to then spoil it with Brass.
I prefer to deal with SS - copper is good but i dont have the tools for Copper.
 
way to go ken.ss is heaven.but my only gripe is with the effort you have put in you could have at least made it all very central.looks to be over to one side.
must be the tradesman in me coming out.
measure twice cut once.

cheers
big d
 
but then how many cowboys pretend to be tradesmen
 
yep - i looked at that - but the keep cold first juts out with a square piece - and due to the size of the ss fittings - that is the best i could get.

It will work...
 
remember gentlemen, this is my 2nd step of what will be many.
1st mayo buckets
2nd cooler
 
apologies guys im forgetting it is a fantastic learning curve making your ag gear.maybe its time i did some alterations to my set up to remember what a great time i had making additions and seeing how it all pans out.
now where did i put that welder again

cheers
big d
 
I'm enlightened.

Here's me thinking all this time that the Bunnings ball valves were brass and not S/S. :ph34r: I'm sleeping easy now. ;)

Warren -
 
GMK,
I have to agree with Warren. Unless you want to relive my tale of woe and desperation, use copper not flexible tube.

I had poly tube on there at the start of my first brew. We stirred carefully during the mash, but when it came time to pour it off, the valve blocked. It turns out that a slightly overly excited son of my brewing companion led to the tube disconnecting.

In a fit of desperation we transferred the entire mash to 2 vessles using a jug, and then rebuilt the mash tun. Then we restarted the conversion.

It seems that it hasn't killed the beer, but who knows what it might have eben like. And it sure as hell wouldn't have been as messy :)

As for downward pressure for the false bottom, it only needs to sit comfortably on the bottom. Sure ,flour & bits will get through at first, but a bit of recirculation will settle the grain bed nicely. Even after the above mess I had a clear run in no time!

Andy
 
I've been using a similar setup to GMK except with the std brass connection in a pot rather than a cooler. Never had a problem with the plastic pipe comming off after doing a good 10+ AG brews. Makes removing the FB for cleaning easy too.

You could always use some SS hoseclamps if you were worried.
 
I am willing to admit to being more tool challenged than most home brewers (just please don't tell my wife I admitted to that in a public forum)

As such I let GMK fit my false bottom for me (again, please don't tell the wife!)

Much like Tangent's, the false bottom looked a little skew wiff (now, please don't tell Tangent's wife I said that)

I shortened the tube and my bottom seemed to fit more concentrically (please, don't tell my doctor)

Even so the bottom does still seem to lift a bit (as the actor apparently once said to the bishop)

However, I tend to find that if I recirculate more than most, I tend to run out of double entendres :huh: .

Anyway, beauty is in the eye of the beholder, and at least two of my beers made with a GMK designed mash tun, have award winning labels.

awrabest, stu
 
Very nice there Ken, good info! Definately food for thought...I may even have to tackle this project myself one day :)

ps I haven't forgotten about that $1.50 I owe you either :rolleyes:

edit: added ps
 
Tangent picked up his Mash Tun Today...
He has promised to post some pics on the forum when he first uses it.

Must say i was very impressed with my Gift Pack of CHimay with a glass as a thank you for my efforts in fitting it all up.

Very Happy - will save them for the weekend.

Thanks again...

Cant wait for the pics.
 
Can anyone tell me the size of holes in the false bottoms.

Cheers

:beer:

Richard
 
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