Mangrove Jack's M31 Belgian Tripel.

Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum

Help Support Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
So what do you suggest if my wort is needing 4 packs of dried yeast? 24L of 1.092 sg wort.
Don't worry about it mate. Rehydrate the yeast, then pitch it in to a sufficiently sized starter (use an online pitching calculator to work it out) and you'll be fine
 
I’ve read all the hype, and get good results with starters.

Normal practice is to step up 1g of dried yeast to the requisite size.

Usually 3-400ml then 2.5-3 odd litres for 45l batches, gravity dependent.


Starter wort comes from making a little extra in each batch, including yeast nutrient
 
Nice Mr b. Wow start with 1g. How r u storing the remainder of the pack? Any special considerations? The yeast companies say it must be used in a manner of days after opening I presume due to contamination concerns.
 
So what do you suggest if my wort is needing 4 packs of dried yeast? 24L of 1.092 sg wort.

I would use 4 packs of yeast. You really need the pitch rate for the high gravity stuff. I wouldn't risk a whole batch because I was corner cutting on the yeast.

Although if I could plan my beers better, I would make a trappist single, and pitch onto the dregs of it.
 
Dried yeast is packaged with enough nutrients to allow the yeast to grow and fully ferment the rated volume/gravity if wort.

When you make a starter, those nutrients are wasted when you decant the liquor from the slurry.
Nah. If you need a certain number of cells not achievable through one pack then you either buy extra packets or use a starter to hit that number. It really is no different to liquid yeast.
 
I would use 4 packs of yeast. You really need the pitch rate for the high gravity stuff. I wouldn't risk a whole batch because I was corner cutting on the yeast.

Although if I could plan my beers better, I would make a trappist single, and pitch onto the dregs of it.

You are ok with pitching on the dregs but don't think you can do starters with dried yeast? What's the difference?
 
Nice Mr b. Wow start with 1g. How r u storing the remainder of the pack? Any special considerations? The yeast companies say it must be used in a manner of days after opening I presume due to contamination concerns.
Keep it simple. Pitch a pack into a 1L starter using 100g of DME. Usually around 1.040
 
I would use 4 packs of yeast. You really need the pitch rate for the high gravity stuff. I wouldn't risk a whole batch because I was corner cutting on the yeast.

This doesn't make sense.

You can increase the cell count OR make a sufficiently sized starter. What about that don't you seem to understand? As I said, some people may not be able to buy more packs of that particular dry yeast.
It's not cutting corners to make a starter....

Although if I could plan my beers better, I would make a trappist single, and pitch onto the dregs of it.

And that would probably be overpitching, if it were a regular gravity tripel
 
Nice Mr b. Wow start with 1g. How r u storing the remainder of the pack? Any special considerations? The yeast companies say it must be used in a manner of days after opening I presume due to contamination concerns.

I vac seal the remainder each time, and keep it in the fridge
 
Just closing the loop and reporting back on this one.

This yeast delivered satisfactory flavours when fermented at 25 degrees. Banana and clove / peppery esters consistent to style. A fast ferment as you would expect at that temp with candy syrup and had reasonable attentiveness. Good flocculation dropping very clear with cold conditioning and no finings. However with bottle conditioning the dropped yeast is very powdery and it's difficult not to end up with a cloudy beer when pouring the final third of the bottle.

In all a solid yeast that produced a very tasty beer in my opinion and I would use again.
 
Do you recall what the attenuation was? I've read a lot about the crazy high attenuation of this yeast.
 
Nice Mr b. Wow start with 1g. How r u storing the remainder of the pack? Any special considerations? The yeast companies say it must be used in a manner of days after opening I presume due to contamination concerns.

I always make starters when using dried yeast, normally 1/2 to 1 gram. One reason I do it is because of the suggestion that the yeast works better after it has gone through a few generations. And that is an important consideration especially when trying to coax some nice esters out of your yeast.

I don't believe what is written on the yeast packet. I don't vacuum pack it to reseal. Quite often the yeast will be good years later when/if I come to reuse it. Sometimes I will just chuck the remainder of the packet away because I decide I didn't like the yeast much anyway. Just make sure you seal the container well to prevent contamination and moisture from entering.

As an aside, I have used wine yeast (for wine), from a 500 gram packet that was several years old and that had been stored out of the fridge. It went off with a bang.
 
Ok. Back on topic and a review of this yeast.

Very little info on this yeast. I have now made an 8% tripel and a 4% pale.

The yeast seems to like a very active fermentation, so factor in some headspace.

Attenuated well. Fast, over on a few days at 20 degrees.

Taste at first was overwhelming pepper. I was disappointed. Given a week cold conditioning it's dropped bright and tasting great. Fruitiness coming through well.

I am happy, it's probably my favourite mangrove jacks Belgian strain, and I have tried almost all.

Next to try is the Belgian wit.
 
I would use 4 packs of yeast. You really need the pitch rate for the high gravity stuff. I wouldn't risk a whole batch because I was corner cutting on the yeast.

Although if I could plan my beers better, I would make a trappist single, and pitch onto the dregs of it.
$7.50 for a dry yeast at my LHBS
$10 for 1k of DME

4x 7.50 = $30
$7.50 + $4 of DME = $11.50

I know why i make starters.
 
Dried yeast is packaged with enough nutrients to allow the yeast to grow and fully ferment the rated volume/gravity if wort.

When you make a starter, those nutrients are wasted when you decant the liquor from the slurry.

To resurrect an old thread...

Why don't you just tip the lot in?

I always make a starter 24hrs or more before I want to brew with dry yeast and DME, then make my wort up to final volume minus the starter volume and tip it in. The whole lot goes in. About 7,200L last year brewed that way and no batches lost, but massive money saved on specialty yeast. Then wash that yeast and keep it to make an even larger starter next time, for about 6 brews/generations (Anywhere from 30L to 180L batches).
 

Latest posts

Back
Top