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Mangrove Jack's M31 Belgian Tripel.

Discussion in 'Yeast' started by Killer Brew, 4/2/18.

 

  1. Killer Brew

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    Posted 4/2/18
    Anyone had experience with this yeast? I have a pack in the fridge and was going to knock something together. Large fermentation range given of 18 degrees - 28 degrees. Am wondering what to expect flavour wise at either end of that scale. Esters? Sulphur?

    More info: will be making something in a Trappist style to around 6%
     
  2. Coodgee

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    Posted 4/2/18
    @Matplat was this the yeast you used for the blonde?
     
  3. Matplat

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    Posted 5/2/18
    Unfortunately not, I used M41...

    I have used M31 before in a belgian pale ale though, the hydro samples were great but by the time the bottles were carbed something else had taken over and destroyed the flavour :(
     
  4. Coodgee

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    Posted 5/2/18
    well M41 makes a bloody nice drop!
     
  5. Killer Brew

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    Posted 5/2/18
    Thanks anyway guys. I will try a ferment in the middle of that range and report back.
     
  6. mongey

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    Posted 5/2/18
    I have a Belgian IPA , coopers extract recepie, ready to be bottled with it .turned out about 6.5% was hoping to bottle last weekend but was kids birthday party so had no time . The samples are tasting great . I fermented at 23-24 and went off like a cracker.

    flavor wise i have only sipped the sample but it gave a little bannaish quality in a Belgian way form what I tasted

    I was going to use M41 but shop was out so figured i just have a bash with the 31
     
    Last edited: 5/2/18
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  7. mongey

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    Posted 12/2/18
    bottled my M31 beer on Saturday and it tasted really good out of the fermenter . Usually at bottling just put a little into a scotch glass to have a few sips and check it out but after a taste I poured a full glass

    def a good whack of bannna .

    hopefully it doesn't change for the worse with age like Matplat's beer
     
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  8. Dazza88

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    Posted 12/2/18
    Are you guys using m31 and m41 using one pack or more? Starter or just rehydrate?
     
  9. mongey

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    Posted 13/2/18
    I only used 1 but OG was only 1058,but it got down to 1006 .

    I'm ghetto. I just sprinkled in the dry yeast .i never rehydrate and I always get good attenuation
     
  10. Matplat

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    Posted 13/2/18
    I made a 2l starter with 1 pack and harvested some before pitching the rest.... 1060 to 1008
     
  11. Matplat

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    Posted 13/2/18
    And I pitched at 20 and let it rise to 26 over 3-4 days.
     
  12. Dazza88

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    Posted 13/2/18
    Cheers guys.
     
  13. TheSumOfAllBeers

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    Posted 13/2/18
    Always rehydrate. You lose half your cells on contact with the wort otherwise. Which might still be enough to attenuate fully but you could stress your yeast.

    Never make a starter with dried yeast.
     
  14. Dazza88

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    Posted 13/2/18
    I've basically bought a number of MJ strains but not m31. I am considering trying a MJ Belgian strain in the future but I have a few other beers in the queue beforehand. Currently brewing an IPA on M44 slurry, its almost fg in 3 days. Prior brew was a pale ale using 2 packets of M44. I find it interesting that MJ have a number of strains for higher alcohol beers but they are sold in standard sized packets so to brew a big Belgian with M31 at a suitable pitch rate you need to go multiple packs or a starter. I will be brewing an 1.092 RIS with M42 (new world strong ale) and will make a 2-litre starter (not buying 3.5 thus 4 packs). There are lots of good comments about M42, M44 seem mixed. I'm fairly happy with M44 pale ale but it needs further conditioning. Kinda derailing here but researching how people are using MJ yeasts for repitching and on big beers.
     
  15. Killer Brew

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    Posted 14/2/18
    I made a 1L starter using 1 pack for a 23L wort at 1.055
     
  16. Killer Brew

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    Posted 14/2/18
    Why?
     
  17. Dazza88

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    Posted 14/2/18
    I thought the don't make a starter with dried yeast argument was based on cost. But a few dollars of DME would be cheaper than three extra packs offered yeast
     
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  18. TheSumOfAllBeers

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    Posted 14/2/18
    Dried yeast is packaged with enough nutrients to allow the yeast to grow and fully ferment the rated volume/gravity if wort.

    When you make a starter, those nutrients are wasted when you decant the liquor from the slurry.
     
  19. Dazza88

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    Posted 14/2/18
    So what do you suggest if my wort is needing 4 packs of dried yeast? 24L of 1.092 sg wort.
     
  20. goatchop41

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    Posted 15/2/18
    100% incorrect there mate. If you don't have enough cells, and don't want to/can't buy more packs, then a starter is necessary.

    This is only relevant if you have a sufficient cell count. It doesn't matter a shite if you need more cells. Yes, they will use up those nutrients in the starter, but they will also gain new nutrients from the starter (even more so if you're smart enought to through some yeast nutrient in there or the wort).

    People need to stop saying this "don't make a starter with dry yeast" shit. There are situations where making a starter for it is warranted. Some people can't just go and buy another pack. What they should be saying is "if you want to make a starter with dried yeast, make sure that you rehydrate it before adding it to the starter medium".
     
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