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Low dissolved oxygen brewing techniques

Discussion in 'General Brewing Techniques' started by dent, 3/7/16.

 

  1. GalBrew

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    Posted 7/2/18
    Not really as an increase in temp results in an increase rate of staling. I think Charlie Bamforth has mentioned a 2-3x rate of staling in finished beer for every 10degC increase in beer temp.
     
  2. mkj

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    Posted 7/2/18
    Yep, I meant chill it as soon as the cap's on.
     
  3. MHB

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    Posted 7/2/18
    Much as I like Kunze, it's highly influenced by the Reinheitsgebot. Where the addition of most everything is verboten!
    Personally I use KMBS (Campden tablet) to remove Chlorine (different Conversation) and as the strike water is reasonably hot the dissolved O2 is fairly low and there is going to be a slight excess of Met.
    If I wanted to push it down lower I would bubble CO2 or N2 through the water (N2 is best), use my airstone.

    Some of the commercial attempts to remove O2 include fully de-aired water, gas flooding of the malt from the mill to the mash mixer and keeping an inert gas cap on the mash. Care taken to avoid fast mixing and the creation of vortices in pumping (especially on the suction side).

    As a home brewer I just avoid splashing and stirring that incorporates air into the mash, I keep cracked malt in a barrier bag to prevent O2 and moisture uptake, pay attention to mash pH, just the basics really. But I'm not aiming at a 12 month shelf life.
    Mind you next time I do a Barley Wine that I will want to vintage I'll be going postal.

    Had forgotten that mention in Kunze for using yeast to de-air water. Wouldn't need to be bakers yeast, any yeast would do. probably just add a teaspoon of sugar to the water with some yeast and leave it overnight in an airtight container should get you there.

    Commercial Breweries are heading toward zero O2, these days low PPB levels are becoming normal, the biggest problem area remains packaging. Trying to get beer into a bottle without any O2 exposure is quite a challenge.
    Mark
     
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  4. Truman42

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    Posted 18/11/19
    Anyone still on the LODO bandwagon? I looked into it and read a lot of information over on the low oxygen brewing forum but bloody hell it makes for a very long brew day if you follow all the principles... boiling your wort, then chilling, adding SMB, using mash caps. I brought a Guten to replace my 3V to be able to make brew day easier but would need to go back to 3V and under letting to follow LODO to the letter.

    Is it really worth all that mucking around just for beer Im drinking at home?
     
  5. wide eyed and legless

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    Posted 18/11/19
    Being as you drink it before it has time to oxidize, no, even so I have been reading up about it too there are things that do come in useful.
    I haven't got around to the bakers yeast and sugar in the strike water but I am conscious of gently doughing in. I also haven't tried doughing in at 20 C though I know some do.
     
    Last edited: 18/11/19
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  6. Truman42

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    Posted 18/11/19
    Whats the doughing in at 20C do? I thought the warmer the water the less O2 in it?? I used to dough in with a paint stirrer connected to my drill so will stop that. Might try the yeast and sugar in the strike water method as well.
    Maybe I will boil, smb and under let and use a 3V setup if Im brewing a NEIPA as my last one oxidised very quickly.
     

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