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Kegmenter. Are they good to use?

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I still stand by my KK 50lt kegmenter. I give it a heat sanitize every time now.
Clean well with Sodium Percarbonate then rinse well. Add 5lt Sanitizer (mixed as per instructions on bottle). I use pure Phosphoric acid for sanitizer now for the no suds version factor and it goes further by volume.
Assemble and then on the burner with a spunding valve. Bring to boiling at ~15 to 20psi release pressure gets around 125c. Like an autoclave.
This also steam flush sanitizes the spunding valves (also KK versions). Pressure cook for say 10 minutes then turn off heat and let sit as long as you want. Or disconect spunding valve and roll the kegmenter around hot. Let cool like that. Only break seal and tip out sanitizer when ready for the new beer to go in.
I've always just cleaned and sanitized cold too with success but the heat treatment is like an added insurance.
 
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I still stand by my KK 50lt kegmenter. I give it a heat sanitize every time now.
Clean well with Sodium Percarbonate then rinse well. Add 5lt Sanitizer (mixed as per instructions on bottle). I use pure Phosphoric acid for sanitizer now for the no suds version factor and it goes further by volume.
Assemble and then on the burner with a spunding valve. Bring to boiling at ~15 to 20psi release pressure gets around 125c. Like an autoclave.
This also steam flush sanitizes the spunding valves (also KK versions). Pressure cook for say 10 minutes then turn off heat and let sit as long as you want. Or disconect spunding valve and roll the kegmenter around hot. Let cool like that. Only break seal and tip out sanitizer when ready for the new beer to go in.
I've always just cleaned and sanitized cold too with success but the heat treatment is like an added insurance.

No issues with heat on your disconnects?

I don't go this far, but I do fully disassemble the posts and spunding valve and give it all a cold sanitise with star san. Haven't had an issue yet.
 
No issues with heat on your disconnects?

I don't go this far, but I do fully disassemble the posts and spunding valve and give it all a cold sanitise with star san. Haven't had an issue yet.
No problems at all. All the O rings handle the heat. I've done it maybe six times now and still on the same O rings.
 
Mate how do you dry hop? loose or in a bag?

I always prefer loose in a normal fermenter but am concerned that a 150g dry hop in the kegmenter may be too much as the hop matter may be too high and get sucked up by the tube. I have cut 20mm off the original spear length.

My set up is through the original opening so getting a decent size bag in there and then getting the spear back in and the bag tied off to it is something I've been struggling with a bit to work out.

Thoughts?

Teflon tape works quite well for this as you can put it through the seal on the lid and it will still be air tight.
 
And the big moment....it hold pressure

Edit: i just have to cut the beer tube now but ll do that tomorrow.

View attachment 95643

I am surprised you got this to seal so well with just cutting a hole with a grinder. Does the lid seal at low pressures as well. This can be difficult especially if you don't get even o-ring compression. When you have the pressure at 1-4psi do you still get a good seal?
 
What's the recommendation on shortening the dip-tube to minimise pushing out trub when pressure transferring from Kegmenter to Corny? Don't want to lose too much beer but prefer minimal trub transferred. After my first ferment in the new Kegmenter yesterday I pushed the beer out (a Bo Pils). First to 4 PET bottles (as I new I put 25L of wort into the Kegmenter) and then to the 19L Corny. Unfortunately I over-pressurised the first PET and stirred up all the ***** with back pressure. The remainder of the transfer was cloudy. Not sure if this was due to stirring up the trub or would have happened anyway because I hadn't shortened the dip-tube.

Shortening the dip tube is ok but we have found the best option is to use floating dip tube like this:

https://www.kegland.com.au/4-inch-t...sts-floating-dip-tube-and-prv-red-2-5bar.html
 
Mmmmm so many 'needs'.

They are certainly interesting, and quite a cost effective stainless fermenter, with the added bonus of pressure ferments. I'd ideally want a little more volume, 60l would be good, or two 30l ones.....

Hmmmm searching thinking searching thinking

Cheers


Hey Mr B. We have taken your advice and the requests from a few other brewers and done this for you:

https://www.kegland.com.au/29l-kegmenter-304-stainless-uni-tank-pressurisable-fermenter.html

https://www.kegland.com.au/58l-kegmenter-304-stainless-uni-tank-pressurisable-fermenter.html


 
I got this up and running over the weekend on a 50lt keg. I already had some of the parts but the whole lot would be about $100 all up.
IMG_20180611_211559.jpeg
 
I just bought a new one from Grain and Grape so its just a regular dip tube. It's in a "through the wall" keg post from GnG as well. That goes in to a 1/4" to 1/2" adapter, then in to a 1/2" T peice and then into a 1/2" to 2" tri clover. Same for the gas post.
 
The dip tube was a perfext height. Didnt need any trimming. It sits about 10mm from the bottom.
 
I got this up and running over the weekend on a 50lt keg. I already had some of the parts but the whole lot would be about $100 all up. View attachment 112782

We have been considering making something like this and selling it for about $50. If this is something of considerable interest we will start making it but it seems that most customers are going for the Kegmenters.
 
We have been considering making something like this and selling it for about $50. If this is something of considerable interest we will start making it but it seems that most customers are going for the Kegmenters.
I have a DIY keg cleaner that i hope will do the job other wise it will use to much water. A KL kegmemter is still on the wish list down the track.
 
Sadly I saw the 58 litre version after they sold out.
I’ve got a kk 50 litre version I just use as a keg as it’s too squeezy for my brew length of 47 to 50 litres.
Waiting for it to be back in stock...
 
Sadly I saw the 58 litre version after they sold out.
I’ve got a kk 50 litre version I just use as a keg as it’s too squeezy for my brew length of 47 to 50 litres.
Waiting for it to be back in stock...

Yes we did get this same enquiry from a number of customers which is the main reason why we now do 58L kegs.

Also we can deep draw the stainless halves of the keg to this maximum depth to make the 58L so it's the same cost to produce as it uses the same amount of raw material as the 50L keg. So I guess its also a bit more efficient in that respect too. TUnfortunately sold out until next container in 25th July. You can sign up to notifications for the product here:

https://www.kegland.com.au/58l-kegmenter-304-stainless-uni-tank-pressurisable-fermenter.html
 
I really like the kegmenters. My only problem with them is no thermowell. Is this something that could be welded into the pressure caps?
 
I really like the kegmenters. My only problem with them is no thermowell. Is this something that could be welded into the pressure caps?

If you are fermenting in a fridge (which is what we recommend) then we really feel a thermowell is not necessary. Would be keen to hear what other people think on this one. We feel that it's just one more thing to wash out and already you will get quite accurate temperature reading by taping the termometer to the outside of the fermenter/kegmenter
 
If you are fermenting in a fridge (which is what we recommend) then we really feel a thermowell is not necessary. Would be keen to hear what other people think on this one. We feel that it's just one more thing to wash out and already you will get quite accurate temperature reading by taping the termometer to the outside of the fermenter/kegmenter
I just find with a thermowell in my other fermenters I tend to get a better reading as it's taking the temp from the centre of the fermenter. I run all my fermenters in a fridge as well. Just a preference thing I guess.
 
If you are fermenting in a fridge (which is what we recommend) then we really feel a thermowell is not necessary. Would be keen to hear what other people think on this one. We feel that it's just one more thing to wash out and already you will get quite accurate temperature reading by taping the termometer to the outside of the fermenter/kegmenter
If your using Brew Pi it's a must, and it is the best ferment control, now I'm not saying the yeast will know any difference over .5c, but being able to see on graph exactly when fermentation stopped is kinda special.
 
I thought that when you measure the centre of your wort and it is in a fridge, that around the outside would be significantly cooler?
Makes sense to the measure the outside to me since you would be controlling the majority of the wort.
 
I thought that when you measure the centre of your wort and it is in a fridge, that around the outside would be significantly cooler?
Makes sense to the measure the outside to me since you would be controlling the majority of the wort.
If you were cold crashing maybe, if your trying to maintain a steady temp is would be marginal. Brew pi measures the temp of the wort and the fridge temp the uses an algorithm to cool/heat for the right amount of time to affect the desired change in wort temp.
 
Shortening the dip tube is ok but we have found the best option is to use floating dip tube like this:

https://www.kegland.com.au/4-inch-t...sts-floating-dip-tube-and-prv-red-2-5bar.html
Just took delivery of two of the kegmenter lids with the floating dip-tubes as per your recommendation. The ball float and silicone tubing looks to be the same as that supplied for the Fermentasaurus. I think it will be a PITA to get the tubing supplied to fit over the beer tube post, at a minimum it’s going to require soaking the tubing in boiling water to get it it fit. Also, will the length of tubing supplied make it to the bottom of a 50L KK/58L KL Kegmenter?
 
I got this up and running over the weekend on a 50lt keg. I already had some of the parts but the whole lot would be about $100 all up. View attachment 112782
Hey nosco
I've gotta ask, which do you prefer, the kegmenter with a 2" opening or your dome-icle
The only thing pushing me away from the 2" opening is dry hopping and filling from a cube being a pain
 
I couldnt tell you sorry Spork. Ive only done 2 pilsners in it and the 2nd one is still in the ferm fridge (i pitched the 2nd on the first yeast cake) . Im not even sure how its gonna clean up. I do like my dome-icle though.
 
Im going to do as a few others have done or doing. Get the cheap bits from China and makey own. 2" tri clamp and ball valve. Flip it over and cut a hole for a corny lid. I already have some aluminium to make a frame. But considering i just bought a SS Brewbucket it might take a lot more time than originally planned.

View attachment 95062
Sorry @nosco one other question, I'm guessing the 2" tri clamp to 1/2" thread fitting you used is the below one?
Because I can't find any other anywhere on the usual sites
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2-T...rch0104.8.28.319b11880PFHL3&priceBeautifyAB=0
 
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