Kegmenter. Are they good to use?

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Mate how do you dry hop? loose or in a bag?

I always prefer loose in a normal fermenter but am concerned that a 150g dry hop in the kegmenter may be too much as the hop matter may be too high and get sucked up by the tube. I have cut 20mm off the original spear length.

My set up is through the original opening so getting a decent size bag in there and then getting the spear back in and the bag tied off to it is something I've been struggling with a bit to work out.

Thoughts?
 
Droopy Brew said:
Mate how do you dry hop? loose or in a bag?

I always prefer loose in a normal fermenter but am concerned that a 150g dry hop in the kegmenter may be too much as the hop matter may be too high and get sucked up by the tube. I have cut 20mm off the original spear length.

My set up is through the original opening so getting a decent size bag in there and then getting the spear back in and the bag tied off to it is something I've been struggling with a bit to work out.

Thoughts?
I dry hop loose with pellets.

I did a citra smash in there before christmas, 200g dry hop. After cold crashing, it seemed to come out crystal clear.

I too chopped about 20mm off the dip tube.
 
I have been looking into bigger fermenters until i stumbled upon this thread. I happen to have a couple of old sankey kegs laying around.

Thinking of doing a simple kegmenter setup using a 2" to 4" tri clover adaptor ( like this http://www.stilldragon.com.au/4-x-2-reducer-tapered/) from the keg opening, then having a 4" end cap with a gas post, liquid post/stem and PRV drilled/tapped in. Using the 2 - 4 adaptor as i don't think I could get all 3 fittings onto a 2" end cap.

So should be able to get out of it for around $100 and have something very similar to the keg king jobs.
 
A most interesting topic. Has anyone tried this:

2958-Ultimate-Sanke-Keg-Cross-Fermenter-Kit-Closeup.jpg


Or this: https://www.ibrew.com.au/products/c02-pressure-relief-valve

I have an old Sanke lying around and am keen to get going..

edit: just sighted the post from Malt Junkie, so disregard mine..
 
I am looking at trying to track down a 50L kegmenter which a few places have said they are waiting on them from China. In the meantime I have had a look at the SS Brewtech 53L. I have read on here all the benifits from pressure fermenting and was wondering if guys could help me decide if I should be patient or buy the SS Brewtech conical which is 2x the price. Any advice will be helpful
 
My understanding is that the SS brewtech conicals may not be true pressure fermenters. Off the grain and grape website, they state that you can only pressurise to 5psi for transfers, so you won't be able to do proper carbonation in them. However, that may be enough to get some of the other benefits like cleaner lagers.
 
I still stand by my KK 50lt kegmenter. I give it a heat sanitize every time now.
Clean well with Sodium Percarbonate then rinse well. Add 5lt Sanitizer (mixed as per instructions on bottle). I use pure Phosphoric acid for sanitizer now for the no suds version factor and it goes further by volume.
Assemble and then on the burner with a spunding valve. Bring to boiling at ~15 to 20psi release pressure gets around 125c. Like an autoclave.
This also steam flush sanitizes the spunding valves (also KK versions). Pressure cook for say 10 minutes then turn off heat and let sit as long as you want. Or disconect spunding valve and roll the kegmenter around hot. Let cool like that. Only break seal and tip out sanitizer when ready for the new beer to go in.
I've always just cleaned and sanitized cold too with success but the heat treatment is like an added insurance.
 
Last edited:
I still stand by my KK 50lt kegmenter. I give it a heat sanitize every time now.
Clean well with Sodium Percarbonate then rinse well. Add 5lt Sanitizer (mixed as per instructions on bottle). I use pure Phosphoric acid for sanitizer now for the no suds version factor and it goes further by volume.
Assemble and then on the burner with a spunding valve. Bring to boiling at ~15 to 20psi release pressure gets around 125c. Like an autoclave.
This also steam flush sanitizes the spunding valves (also KK versions). Pressure cook for say 10 minutes then turn off heat and let sit as long as you want. Or disconect spunding valve and roll the kegmenter around hot. Let cool like that. Only break seal and tip out sanitizer when ready for the new beer to go in.
I've always just cleaned and sanitized cold too with success but the heat treatment is like an added insurance.

No issues with heat on your disconnects?

I don't go this far, but I do fully disassemble the posts and spunding valve and give it all a cold sanitise with star san. Haven't had an issue yet.
 
No issues with heat on your disconnects?

I don't go this far, but I do fully disassemble the posts and spunding valve and give it all a cold sanitise with star san. Haven't had an issue yet.
No problems at all. All the O rings handle the heat. I've done it maybe six times now and still on the same O rings.
 
Mate how do you dry hop? loose or in a bag?

I always prefer loose in a normal fermenter but am concerned that a 150g dry hop in the kegmenter may be too much as the hop matter may be too high and get sucked up by the tube. I have cut 20mm off the original spear length.

My set up is through the original opening so getting a decent size bag in there and then getting the spear back in and the bag tied off to it is something I've been struggling with a bit to work out.

Thoughts?

Teflon tape works quite well for this as you can put it through the seal on the lid and it will still be air tight.
 
And the big moment....it hold pressure

Edit: i just have to cut the beer tube now but ll do that tomorrow.

View attachment 95643

I am surprised you got this to seal so well with just cutting a hole with a grinder. Does the lid seal at low pressures as well. This can be difficult especially if you don't get even o-ring compression. When you have the pressure at 1-4psi do you still get a good seal?
 
What's the recommendation on shortening the dip-tube to minimise pushing out trub when pressure transferring from Kegmenter to Corny? Don't want to lose too much beer but prefer minimal trub transferred. After my first ferment in the new Kegmenter yesterday I pushed the beer out (a Bo Pils). First to 4 PET bottles (as I new I put 25L of wort into the Kegmenter) and then to the 19L Corny. Unfortunately I over-pressurised the first PET and stirred up all the shite with back pressure. The remainder of the transfer was cloudy. Not sure if this was due to stirring up the trub or would have happened anyway because I hadn't shortened the dip-tube.

Shortening the dip tube is ok but we have found the best option is to use floating dip tube like this:

https://www.kegland.com.au/4-inch-t...sts-floating-dip-tube-and-prv-red-2-5bar.html
 

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