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The digiboil is a simple boiler that works well for what it is and I dont think there is much reason to upgrade this device. Once we start doing upgrades on the digiboil the price will also start to increase and eventually if we add pumps and other recirculating hardware you get to a stage where you may as well just get the BrewZilla as the price will end up similar so we feel that the digiboil should just be kept as it is for the moment.

If you did want to see digiboil upgrades what do you think you would like to see?
Cheers, nah I'm meaning having the BZ Gen4 vessel and elements as a blank canvas is what I mean by "digiboil version". So a Gen 4 BZ with the benefits of the bottom drain and concealed elements and any other geometry improvements vs the current digiboil, just without the BZ controller, pump and recirc arm.
 
Dear Kegland

I am from Canada and use a 35L Robobrew Gen 3 which I have replace controller with a raspberry pi. One thing that could make the Robobrew stand out with competion is a mod that alllow water level in mashing to be stopping and starting the pump. I did it on mine and it works great. Could be a great accessory for the community even more with the Gen 4 remote.
 
Hey @KegLand-com-au how about a right angle barb fitting with the pc 1881 thread? Mainly to use as a blow off attachment. I just got the 30l all rounder, which I think is great but never plan on pressure fermenting. Definitely going to need some sort of blow off at some point.
 
Is it OK to drill into the inside of the series x plus?? I'm thinking at the side up the top, I want to mount my gas manifold in there. I thought of double sided tape but it wont sit flush/flat due to the other fittings on it. Is there anything other than foam in there??
 
Is it OK to drill into the inside of the series x plus?? I'm thinking at the side up the top, I want to mount my gas manifold in there. I thought of double sided tape but it wont sit flush/flat due to the other fittings on it. Is there anything other than foam in there??
I think that was answered earlier and it was a don't drill anywhere inside the fridge from memory. I'm sure kegland will answer this but I'd wait for the answer from them.
 
I think that was answered earlier and it was a don't drill anywhere inside the fridge from memory. I'm sure kegland will answer this but I'd wait for the answer from them.

Cheers. Stuck what I needed on with sikaflex anyway so no need to drill. Should have just done this at the start....
 
Looking at adding quick disconnects to my G20 unit to make it easy to switch between fermenters. Any suggestions on best fittings and tubing to use?
 
Cheers, nah I'm meaning having the BZ Gen4 vessel and elements as a blank canvas is what I mean by "digiboil version". So a Gen 4 BZ with the benefits of the bottom drain and concealed elements and any other geometry improvements vs the current digiboil, just without the BZ controller, pump and recirc arm.

That is a good question. This is yet to be decided. Once we release the BZ Gen 4 we will maka a decision on this one and get back to you.
 
Dear Kegland

I am from Canada and use a 35L Robobrew Gen 3 which I have replace controller with a raspberry pi. One thing that could make the Robobrew stand out with competion is a mod that alllow water level in mashing to be stopping and starting the pump. I did it on mine and it works great. Could be a great accessory for the community even more with the Gen 4 remote.

How did you detect the liquid level when you did this? We have not found a really good solution to this yet as the level sensors, float switches, or pressure transducers are all a bit messy to setup and/or have issues if you get particles of grain stuck in them. I would be interested to know what solution you used for this.
 
I sound like a broken record. When can we expect the updated flow control disconnect?

Yes very sorry about this really long delay. We wanted to finish the duotight ball lock disconnects first as these had some common components and this caused quite a delay. We should have the flow control ball lock disconnects finished very soon now and we are also working on a new mini tap that will attach directly to this flow control ball lock disconnect and I think this will also be quite handy.
 
I think that was answered earlier and it was a don't drill anywhere inside the fridge from memory. I'm sure kegland will answer this but I'd wait for the answer from them.


In the Series X we do have a copper refrigeratoin line running over the top of the fridge from left to right and joining the two radiators together. As a result the safest way to make a hole is to use a hot piece of wire/nail and melt a hole into the plastic first as this will not damage the copper refrigeration lines when it melts through the plastic. Once you have a hole you can then put a screw into this hole. Alternative if you are using very short screws and only penetrating the internal skin of the fridge by a few mm this will be fairly safe too.
 
Yes very sorry about this really long delay. We wanted to finish the duotight ball lock disconnects first as these had some common components and this caused quite a delay. We should have the flow control ball lock disconnects finished very soon now and we are also working on a new mini tap that will attach directly to this flow control ball lock disconnect and I think this will also be quite handy.

Is the 20th September date on the site accurate for the non-FC units? Any chance of a 10+ discount? I'd be keen to replace the majority of my DC's with these.
 
Looking at adding quick disconnects to my G20 unit to make it easy to switch between fermenters. Any suggestions on best fittings and tubing to use?
As kegland doesn't have a solution, this may be useful. I use these:

Hose
https://www.bunnings.com.au/pope-10mm-clear-vinyl-tubing-5m_p3130565
Connectors (12mm OD, straight through)
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/232763935768?hash=item3631cfcc18:g:N~cAAOSwlTBa9Bj7
Cheap, cheerful and it just works.

IMG_0764.jpg
 
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