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I really dont like the idea of putting hops in a keg for the main reason that if you drop the hops into the keg it might taste great for a few days but I think dry hops peak at about day 2-5. Then after 5 days you definitely want the hops to be out of there before they start decomposing. Decomposing hops really makes a great beer go down hill fast.

With that said we do get requests from others for dip tube filters so I think it's something we need to make and put my own feeling aside.

Please make a dip tube filter. Rack into purged keg with hops already in there, leave 3 days (or whatever) then closed transfer to purged serving keg leaving hops behind, and having the hops in the purged keg for a while reduces any oxygen in them. Maybe look at a couple of different mesh sizes for those using pellets and those using whole cones.
 
Please make a dip tube filter. Rack into purged keg with hops already in there, leave 3 days (or whatever) then closed transfer to purged serving keg leaving hops behind, and having the hops in the purged keg for a while reduces any oxygen in them. Maybe look at a couple of different mesh sizes for those using pellets and those using whole cones.
A floating dip tube and draw the liquid from the top ?
 
It's difficult to comment on the Bracton stuff as we do not know much about this brand and don't see much of it out there. The majority of stuff we see is Andale (Snap Lok) and Lancer (Fatlock). The new Fatlock stuff is great and I would say in the past few years it's improved a great deal however several years ago the Fatlock stuff was often different size and could vary by more than 150 micron. The Fatlock stuff that they make now which seems to be within 15micron and much better tolerance. So I am not sure what they have changed recently but it's improved. For this reason if you come across some 3-10 year old Fatlock stuff I would not be surprised if you had issued with this coupling with Andale or our stuff but if you get the new stuff I would probably assume that it would work fine.

With regards to the corny post adaptor we sell this one:
https://www.kegland.com.au/5-8-male-x-19-32-female-k-lok-to-corny-keg-adaptor.html

Is this what you are after?
Thanks for the response but no, I'm looking for an adapter for the Fermzilla lid posts to 5/8". The soft drink bottle thread.
 
I’m really looking forward to getting a Kegmenter. Are you planning to make any neoprene jackets to help keep temperature consistent? I’d also be really interested in seeing the heating/cooling systems in action if you were planning to make a video showing how the system works.
Thanks!
 
This is not a difficult device to make. What is the pot that you are installing this into. Most of our customers go with the BrewZilla these days. Screens are such a difficult thing to get right to work in a wide range of conditions. If you make the screen to fine it gets blocked and if you make it too course and too much hops gets through. Obviously the brewzilla units come with these screens that seem to block the right amount of hops that 90% of the hops gets blocked but the screen never completely blocks up from hops even with 200grams added.

Have any of you guys tried the Hopstopper 2.0. From looking at the images it looks like the mesh is really quite fine. It's so fine in fact that I would be guessing that the mesh would also block hot break and if this happens you quickly have a product that is useless. With that said I would be keen to hear what you guys think? Has anyone tried the HopStopper? I would be keen to get some feedback from real customers. If it's something that really works then we will certainly consider making our own version.

I use a 15gal SS BrewTech. I had considered add a flat plate and boring a hole into one of these guys:
https://www.kegland.com.au/stainless-steel-hop-tube.html

then attaching that to the dip tube of the kettle.

I'd also be keen on the keg dip tube filter. I would be following this process also "Rack into purged keg with hops already in there, leave 3 days (or whatever) then closed transfer to purged serving keg leaving hops behind"

Unfortunately I started this game a long time ago and a Brewzilla/Fermzilla hasn't made to the approvals pile at the Department of the Treasury just yet.
 
Hey @KegLand-com-au

I know this idea has been floated previously but my recent change in circumstance (new baby, partner on reduced wages) means I don't have the loose change to buy brew gear like before.. I would therefore be a +1 vote for AfterPay etc. options!
 
I use a 15gal SS BrewTech. I had considered add a flat plate and boring a hole into one of these guys:
https://www.kegland.com.au/stainless-steel-hop-tube.html

then attaching that to the dip tube of the kettle..

Something to be aware of: these things come in two qualities (for want of a better word) the difference is in the screw on lid, most do not have the fine stainless mesh inside the lid just the holes, which are large enough to allow pelleted hop material through, fine for cones not so good for pellets, the rare (expensive) ones have the mesh inside the lid, looking at the KL pic's it seems they do not have the mesh, this is probably fine if you fill it with pellets then suspend it in the wort near the surface but not so good if you want to submerge it and suck hoppy wort through it. My solution was to buy a bit of stainless mesh from evil bay and fit it under the screw on lid then drill a hole into the bottom of the filter and fit a grommet which is a tight sliding fit on the dip tube, it works but is a pita to install as you have to get your arm into the keg and then get the dip tube into the grommet all by feel, a full length mesh tube open at the top would be so much easier.
 
Something to be aware of: these things come in two qualities (for want of a better word) the difference is in the screw on lid, most do not have the fine stainless mesh inside the lid just the holes, which are large enough to allow pelleted hop material through, fine for cones not so good for pellets, the rare (expensive) ones have the mesh inside the lid, looking at the KL pic's it seems they do not have the mesh, this is probably fine if you fill it with pellets then suspend it in the wort near the surface but not so good if you want to submerge it and suck hoppy wort through it. My solution was to buy a bit of stainless mesh from evil bay and fit it under the screw on lid then drill a hole into the bottom of the filter and fit a grommet which is a tight sliding fit on the dip tube, it works but is a pita to install as you have to get your arm into the keg and then get the dip tube into the grommet all by feel, a full length mesh tube open at the top would be so much easier.

Exactly! Therefore I was hoping the fine people at kegland might help:)
 
I tend to agree, but the keg or kegmenter version of the hop stopper is still useful when actively fermenting beer is transferred into the keg or kegmenter which contains the dry hops, then transferred out to serving vessel after an appropriate time of exposure to said hops (I think this is the use case that Janish describes in the link I suggested).

Also, some have success with hops in the serving keg. I find it does work with some beers.

If you make it, I can test it for you

Ok no worries. Well I think the hop blocking device for keg dip tube is the way to go but for the boiler hop screen I think we will hold fire on that one for the moment.
 
Cryo hops in the keg don't seem to have the same degradation issues as pellets.... maybe a consideration for the mesh size
 
Also, some have success with hops in the serving keg. I find it does work with some beers.

I've had hops in the serving keg for months without issue. I have no idea what kind of "decomposition" KL think can happen in a low-O2 refrigerated environment...
 
Cryo hops in the keg don't seem to have the same degradation issues as pellets.... maybe a consideration for the mesh size

Yes absolutely that would be the case. At the moment we have only a small percentage of our customers going with Cryo Hops but I assume this will grow in future.
 
The problem with cryo is variety, KL list 3 whole cone, 5 cryo, and 49 pelleted.

Yes would agree. We really do not have many options. It's difficult to get at the moment but I assume we will have more Cryo options in the future.
 
I've had hops in the serving keg for months without issue. I have no idea what kind of "decomposition" KL think can happen in a low-O2 refrigerated environment...

I am really surprised. If you get a reasonable about of hops 20-80grams for instance in a 19L keg after about 1 week the freshness of the hops starts to get worse. After about 4 weeks it's really noticeable and the grassy aromas coming out of the hops I feel gets really quite bad. Irrespective of if it's whole hops or pellets I find this grassy taste/aroma to really subtract from the fresh hop aroma. If you cannot properly flush the hops of oxygen then you also will have the introduction of oxygen and also have a compounding issue of cardboard and grassy flavours coming from the hops.
 
I am really surprised. If you get a reasonable about of hops 20-80grams for instance in a 19L keg after about 1 week the freshness of the hops starts to get worse. After about 4 weeks it's really noticeable and the grassy aromas coming out of the hops I feel gets really quite bad. Irrespective of if it's whole hops or pellets I find this grassy taste/aroma to really subtract from the fresh hop aroma. If you cannot properly flush the hops of oxygen then you also will have the introduction of oxygen and also have a compounding issue of cardboard and grassy flavours coming from the hops.
I think it comes down to sensitivity, it could be that you are particularly sensitive to particular aroma/flavour compounds and Seekerr isn't, personally I notice it after a couple of weeks depending on the beer style of course. Safest bet is to just get rid of the hop matter hence the desire for a dip tube filter, my suggested method also purges the hops of oxygen so it's a win,win. Please let us know when you get them in although I imagine it will be quite a while due to the virus thing.
 
I think it comes down to sensitivity, it could be that you are particularly sensitive to particular aroma/flavour compounds and Seekerr isn't, personally I notice it after a couple of weeks depending on the beer style of course. Safest bet is to just get rid of the hop matter hence the desire for a dip tube filter, my suggested method also purges the hops of oxygen so it's a win,win. Please let us know when you get them in although I imagine it will be quite a while due to the virus thing.
Vegetal favours from excessive dry-hopping times is well documented and should be obvious to detect. It isn't something that will be avoided by CO2 or cold storage. To prevent this defect I wouldn't recommend more than a week of dry hop contact time.

I also wouldn't recommend keg-hopping to serve, at least not without a randal/hopinator filter - just because of the consequence of pellet matter escaping whatever filtering you have in place - but each to their own!
 
Vegetal favours from excessive dry-hopping times is well documented and should be obvious to detect. It isn't something that will be avoided by CO2 or cold storage. To prevent this defect I wouldn't recommend more than a week of dry hop contact time.

I also wouldn't recommend keg-hopping to serve, at least not without a randal/hopinator filter - just because of the consequence of pellet matter escaping whatever filtering you have in place - but each to their own!
Exactly why I posted this #3661
Please make a dip tube filter. Rack into purged keg with hops already in there, leave 3 days (or whatever) then closed transfer to purged serving keg leaving hops behind, and having the hops in the purged keg for a while reduces any oxygen in them.
 
Hop pellets are not really ideal for keg/cask dry hopping. Dry hopping was traditionally done in the cask using whole hop flowers (or hop plugs which were made for the job) and left in the serving cask till it was empty. If you can get hold of flowers keg hopping with a floating dip will work really well.
 
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