KegLand Questions and Answers

[awfulknauful]

You definitely don’t want them to stop improving & innovating!
Mine has worked from the beginning, zero issues.

Your lucky then, dints, leaks, hair line fractures and the one on face book which split open at 10 psi, making improvements is fine, just improve it and iron out the faults, but do it before it is released not after selling a shit load. This isn't the first time.

 

[Meddo]

Hey @KegLand-com-au , any chance you could knock up an adaptor for your carb cap threads to 5/8"? Need to try to get k-lok fittings into the Fermzilla lid.

Cheers,

 

[Warwick]

Any ETA for the neoprene jackets to cover a kegerator font?

 

[KegLand-com-au]

Hey @KegLand-com-au , any chance you could knock up an adaptor for your carb cap threads to 5/8"? Need to try to get k-lok fittings into the Fermzilla lid.

Cheers,

If you don't mind me asking what are you using the k-lok fitting for. We have been looking at making a couple connectors for also getting hops into the vessel without taking the lid off. So it's possible that we will have some other adaptors in the future but it's best if we know your application so we can also take it into consideration.

 

[Meddo]

I'm just transitioning (or trying to) my brewery away from ball lock fittings, I've found them too unreliable in the past. So want to use ⅝" to k-lok females for the gas and liquid fittings rather than the ball lock carb caps. The old fermentasaurus lid had corny posts which can obviously be adapted to ⅝", although there's clearance issues here (the collar when trying to remove the lid to add drauflassen or dry hops) that I'm trying to get resolved through a mate with a lathe.

 

[KegLand-com-au]

Any ETA for the neoprene jackets to cover a kegerator font?

This is coming into stock tomorrow.

We have this type that is suitable for 76mm fonts with 1-3 taps:
https://www.kegland.com.au/insulati...rator-tower-font-76mm-3-diameter-1-3-tap.html

Then we have this type that is suitable for the 115mm fonts with 4 taps:
https://www.kegland.com.au/insulati...tower-font-115mm-4-5-diameter-4-tap-font.html

 

[KegLand-com-au]

I'm just transitioning (or trying to) my brewery away from ball lock fittings, I've found them too unreliable in the past. So want to use ⅝" to k-lok females for the gas and liquid fittings rather than the ball lock carb caps. The old fermentasaurus lid had corny posts which can obviously be adapted to ⅝", although there's clearance issues here (the collar when trying to remove the lid to add drauflassen or dry hops) that I'm trying to get resolved through a mate with a lathe.

No worries. Thanks for that. We have been talking to our partners in America and we are trying to establish a proper specificatoin sheet for ball lock disconnects. At the moment we have slightly differing products that are being made by Cornelius, AEB, CMB and other manufacturers. In my opinion the main issue is we do not have a "standard" that has been developed.

I would say the same problem exists for K-Lok fittings though too. At one stage the Lancer Fittings used to Leak when used with Andale fittings. They seem to have improved since then but if you look at the Andale, Lancer, B-lok, Downey and other fittings they are all differently made with small dimensional changes. We have made all ours compatible with the Andale ones as they are the original people that developed the Snap Lok fittings and I would say Andale have been one of the most consistent over the years in this respect. We still have no such "standard" written for these either.

 

[Meddo]

Interesting stuff, so far I haven't had any problems with a combo of K/king-lok and Bracton stuff, and I've got some Fatlock pieces that look basically identical to the K versions but haven't used yet.

Any chance of that adaptor for the soft drink thread to ⅝"? Or even the soft drink thread to a corny post, so dip tubes could still be used, along with the existing corny post to ⅝ adapter?

 

[Engibeer]

Your lucky then, dints, leaks, hair line fractures and the one on face book which split open at 10 psi, making improvements is fine, just improve it and iron out the faults, but do it before it is released not after selling a shit load. This isn't the first time.

Got a link to the facebook split one?

No intent of schadenfreude... can't guarantee it though.

 

[Daveykyevad]

Is anyone else having this problem with their soda water keg lid where the keg overfills with water?

It seems to work well for a few days and then I'll find that there is water in my gas line (past the check valve sometimes) and I can no longer dispense soda water.

Current fix is to open the keg and tip water out when I notice this.

Gas pressure is ~40 psi and water is coming from the mains using a splitter, with a duotight connection to 6mm(15/64) x 9.5mm(3/8) EVA tubing with check valve

Any advice would be appreciated.

 

[Engibeer]

Is anyone else having this problem with their soda water keg lid where the keg overfills with water?

It seems to work well for a few days and then I'll find that there is water in my gas line (past the check valve sometimes) and I can no longer dispense soda water.

Current fix is to open the keg and tip water out when I notice this.

Gas pressure is ~40 psi and water is coming from the mains using a splitter, with a duotight connection to 6mm(15/64) x 9.5mm(3/8) EVA tubing with check valve

Any advice would be appreciated.

Have you got an in-line regulator on your mains water ?

 

[FatDrew]

I was wondering if you ad considered making something similar to the hopstopper2.0 for boil kettle filtration. I know a lot of people use the hop spiders( myself included) but there is a definite decrease in bitterness when using..

I know its not terribly difficult to add some more bittering hops, but the results from the hopstopper do look very impressive. I just don't love the shippign costs, and there's probably something neat you guys could come up with

Second this
Also, versions to fit your kegmenters and kegs would be superb. The R&D has already been half done too: http://scottjanish.com/my-favorite-way-to-dry-hop-loose-in-primary-and-kegs/

 

[onemorecell]

Second this
Also, versions to fit your kegmenters and kegs would be superb. The R&D has already been half done too: http://scottjanish.com/my-favorite-way-to-dry-hop-loose-in-primary-and-kegs/

That looks super cool, but if you're purging oxygen by filling a keg with starsan you wouldn't be able to get the hops in there to start with. Then it's a toss up between purged kegs vs slightly better dry hop results (I know I prefer the purged keg). If someone can figure out how to fully purge a keg AND use something like this, that'd be a game changer.

 

[KegLand-com-au]

Interesting stuff, so far I haven't had any problems with a combo of K/king-lok and Bracton stuff, and I've got some Fatlock pieces that look basically identical to the K versions but haven't used yet.

Any chance of that adaptor for the soft drink thread to ⅝"? Or even the soft drink thread to a corny post, so dip tubes could still be used, along with the existing corny post to ⅝ adapter?

It's difficult to comment on the Bracton stuff as we do not know much about this brand and don't see much of it out there. The majority of stuff we see is Andale (Snap Lok) and Lancer (Fatlock). The new Fatlock stuff is great and I would say in the past few years it's improved a great deal however several years ago the Fatlock stuff was often different size and could vary by more than 150 micron. The Fatlock stuff that they make now which seems to be within 15micron and much better tolerance. So I am not sure what they have changed recently but it's improved. For this reason if you come across some 3-10 year old Fatlock stuff I would not be surprised if you had issued with this coupling with Andale or our stuff but if you get the new stuff I would probably assume that it would work fine.

With regards to the corny post adaptor we sell this one:
https://www.kegland.com.au/5-8-male-x-19-32-female-k-lok-to-corny-keg-adaptor.html

Is this what you are after?

 

[KegLand-com-au]

I was wondering if you ad considered making something similar to the hopstopper2.0 for boil kettle filtration. I know a lot of people use the hop spiders( myself included) but there is a definite decrease in bitterness when using..

I know its not terribly difficult to add some more bittering hops, but the results from the hopstopper do look very impressive. I just don't love the shippign costs, and there's probably something neat you guys could come up with

This is not a difficult device to make. What is the pot that you are installing this into. Most of our customers go with the BrewZilla these days. Screens are such a difficult thing to get right to work in a wide range of conditions. If you make the screen to fine it gets blocked and if you make it too course and too much hops gets through. Obviously the brewzilla units come with these screens that seem to block the right amount of hops that 90% of the hops gets blocked but the screen never completely blocks up from hops even with 200grams added.

Have any of you guys tried the Hopstopper 2.0. From looking at the images it looks like the mesh is really quite fine. It's so fine in fact that I would be guessing that the mesh would also block hot break and if this happens you quickly have a product that is useless. With that said I would be keen to hear what you guys think? Has anyone tried the HopStopper? I would be keen to get some feedback from real customers. If it's something that really works then we will certainly consider making our own version.

 

[KegLand-com-au]

Have you got an in-line regulator on your mains water ?

If your keg is overfilling it means that the water is getting past the float somehow. This float from our experience has been quite reliable and I don't think the float mechanism is the issue.

I did see one a couple weeks ago where a washer was missing and this caused the issue. So if you possibly have this issue then send us an email and we can send you some instructions on how to check this. Either way it should be quite simple to fix as the device itself is quite mechanically simple.

 

[awfulknauful]

Got a link to the facebook split one?

No intent of schadenfreude... can't guarantee it though.

Its a video which was put up, I have the video but cannot upload it sounds like the guy is from the one of the Baltic states. What is strange is the split went around what I would describe as the shoulder of the FermZilla. Not near the neck where the fractures are appearing. I do believe KegLand did replace it or offered to don't know if the customer took them up on it.

 

[KegLand-com-au]

Second this
Also, versions to fit your kegmenters and kegs would be superb. The R&D has already been half done too: http://scottjanish.com/my-favorite-way-to-dry-hop-loose-in-primary-and-kegs/

I really dont like the idea of putting hops in a keg for the main reason that if you drop the hops into the keg it might taste great for a few days but I think dry hops peak at about day 2-5. Then after 5 days you definitely want the hops to be out of there before they start decomposing. Decomposing hops really makes a great beer go down hill fast.

With that said we do get requests from others for dip tube filters so I think it's something we need to make and put my own feeling aside.

 

[FarsideOfCrazy]

I emailed the manufacturer of the hop stopper about what version would suit the guten that I use. The response was that they don't work very well in a single vessel system. The reason was the fine particles from the mash plus the cold break very quickly block the mesh.

I've bought some ss woven mesh, in 2 different sizes, to make up something like the hop stopper to try out. Just haven't gotten around to it yet. The pick up tube is the thing that I need to get sorted.

I'd like to get it pump out if possible to use the cf chiller, but if it blocks then it will be a PITA to drain the kettle. Another pump will more than likely be an addition.

 

[FatDrew]

I really dont like the idea of putting hops in a keg for the main reason that if you drop the hops into the keg it might taste great for a few days but I think dry hops peak at about day 2-5. Then after 5 days you definitely want the hops to be out of there before they start decomposing. Decomposing hops really makes a great beer go down hill fast.

With that said we do get requests from others for dip tube filters so I think it's something we need to make and put my own feeling aside.

I tend to agree, but the keg or kegmenter version of the hop stopper is still useful when actively fermenting beer is transferred into the keg or kegmenter which contains the dry hops, then transferred out to serving vessel after an appropriate time of exposure to said hops (I think this is the use case that Janish describes in the link I suggested).

Also, some have success with hops in the serving keg. I find it does work with some beers.

If you make it, I can test it for you