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Hi KL, thank you for the explanation about the 35ltr/65ltr costing it all makes sense now, a couple of questions though, are the heating elements replaceable 35ltr/65ltr ? are the pumps magnetic drive ? and is the barley tube handle going to be similar on the 65ltr, I'm wondering just how heavy the 65ltr tube will be when it's full of wet grains after a big beer and if some sort of lifting device (winch) will be necessary for the sparge? I'm leaning toward the 65ltr as my feeling is you can brew a small batch in a big system but you can't brew a big batch in a small one. Cheers G
 
Hi KL,
I was looking at your 58L kegmenter and it mentions a ball lock post lid for pressure fermenting (KL05890) but I can't find it on your site. Can you tell me about that product?
Regards, Dave
 
Can you please examine your packaging process?

I got a nasty surprise after I opened the package sent to me. It contained 96% phosphoric acid and wasn't packaged separately. Most other businesses will put stuff like this in a ziploc bag.

The image below is how it arrived, the whole package was wet with all the bits and pieces soaked in phosphoric.

upload_2018-5-14_16-9-29.png
 
I don't want to link back to your previous reply, but thank you.
There are still some nice people working at KK and I am a strong believer in supporting any LHBS - not so long ago I had to travel across the river to get grain I wanted at a reasonable price.
That said, I am very excited to hear you opening a shop in Dandenong and you can count on me being one of the first through the door. I might be able to put you onto some suppliers of laboratory glassware when you get to that point.

That sounds great. If you have any ideas of suppliers of glassware please send them through to [email protected]

Thanks for that.
 
Hi KL, thank you for the explanation about the 35ltr/65ltr costing it all makes sense now, a couple of questions though, are the heating elements replaceable 35ltr/65ltr ? are the pumps magnetic drive ? and is the barley tube handle going to be similar on the 65ltr, I'm wondering just how heavy the 65ltr tube will be when it's full of wet grains after a big beer and if some sort of lifting device (winch) will be necessary for the sparge? I'm leaning toward the 65ltr as my feeling is you can brew a small batch in a big system but you can't brew a big batch in a small one. Cheers G


No worries at all. Both models will have magnetic drive pumps, Yes the handle on the 65L unit is very similar and the larger unit will include a pulley so you can lift the malt pipe out.
 
Hi KL,
I was looking at your 58L kegmenter and it mentions a ball lock post lid for pressure fermenting (KL05890) but I can't find it on your site. Can you tell me about that product?
Regards, Dave

Yes we are still making some small changes to the KL05890. In the past this was with a stainless dip tube but this had two issues:

1. It was awkward to send out
2. It meant that the dip tube needed to be different lengths for the different kegmenters that we sold.

So in the future this part is getting manufactured with silicon flexible dip tube with float (similar to what we have made in the past with the fermentasaurus.). As we have not got this new model in stock we have not had a chance to take photos and put it up online. We will have this finished soon though and we will put photos and description up online probably second week of june.
 
Can you please examine your packaging process?

I got a nasty surprise after I opened the package sent to me. It contained 96% phosphoric acid and wasn't packaged separately. Most other businesses will put stuff like this in a ziploc bag.

The image below is how it arrived, the whole package was wet with all the bits and pieces soaked in phosphoric.

View attachment 112597


This is a reasonable concern and we will look into this. I should say we have change the packaging considerably and you will also notice that the lids now use a seal that is induction sealed onto the top so it's quite difficuult for the bottle to leak. Under a number of drop tests we have found this new seal to be quite good and resistant to any leakage.

With that said it's not difficult to put this product into a separate bag so I am discussing getting this done in future. We appreciate you giving us the heads up on this.
 
This is a reasonable concern and we will look into this. I should say we have change the packaging considerably and you will also notice that the lids now use a seal that is induction sealed onto the top so it's quite difficuult for the bottle to leak. Under a number of drop tests we have found this new seal to be quite good and resistant to any leakage.

With that said it's not difficult to put this product into a separate bag so I am discussing getting this done in future. We appreciate you giving us the heads up on this.
The same two products arrived today, thanks for the prompt delivery. I thought that they were both underfills so while encouraging the liquid out of the measuring reservoir back in to the main part of the bottle (volumes were fine btw) I noticed that there was dampness under both caps of both bottles. It seems to me that there may be a few possible causes for the leakers.

1 the product is dissolving the glue under the foil seal

2 the neck finish might not be clean, that is that there might be what is called feathering or flashing on the neck (caused by the blow moulder using clapped out cutting rings)

3 mould alignment

Are you doing leak tests by laying bottles on there side? Drop testing is usually used to ensure that the bottle won't burst.

You might want to take a close look at the caps they seem like they may be slightly oversized.
 
Is the top malt screen and the overflow cone you have as spare parts for the gen 3 compatable with gen 2? Ive either misplaced the damn things somewhere or had too many beers one brewday and thrown them away with the spent grain!
 
The same two products arrived today, thanks for the prompt delivery. I thought that they were both underfills so while encouraging the liquid out of the measuring reservoir back in to the main part of the bottle (volumes were fine btw) I noticed that there was dampness under both caps of both bottles. It seems to me that there may be a few possible causes for the leakers.

1 the product is dissolving the glue under the foil seal

2 the neck finish might not be clean, that is that there might be what is called feathering or flashing on the neck (caused by the blow moulder using clapped out cutting rings)

3 mould alignment

Are you doing leak tests by laying bottles on there side? Drop testing is usually used to ensure that the bottle won't burst.

You might want to take a close look at the caps they seem like they may be slightly oversized.

Thanks for that. We are looking into this now and will do more investigation. The foil seals are heat sealed on using induction. This heat seal uses no glue and it's a HDPE coated foil that melts and seals against the HDPE bottle so it should not be possible for the glue to dissolve. It is possible that the seal perhaps was not good perhaps so we will look into this and do some testing on some more bottles that we have in stock. It generally has not presented itself as an issue so far with the units that we have dispatched however you can never be too safer and the phosphoric acid is quite problematic if it get onto other stuff. It will heat through many other plastics, soft metals and other products.
 
With Intertap F/C taps, is it true that you only need enough line to reach the keg outpost?

No this is not 100% correct. All flow control taps will have limitations on how much pressure can be absorbed by the flow control mechanism and still pour beer well. With the Genuine Intertap FC taps (not the counterfeit ones sold by KK at the moment) they are suitable to absorb 85kpa in the flow control mechanism. If you are trying to absorb more than this you can start to get more turbulance and this can cause foaming issues. So it's still a good idea to take up some of the resistance in the line if you are dispensing with more than 85kpa.

In my opinion I dont really like using the flow control taps. You really can't beat the Intertap SS taps. You will always get a better pour if you take up the resistance in the line rather than right at the point of dispence at the low pressure end of your system. I know it's really convenient to be able to control the flow rate at the tap end but it's important to remember this is the low pressure end of the system and even small amounts of turbulence at the low pressure end will cause issues with foaming. The Intertap SS taps have always poured with more laminar flow, less parts to clean/lubricate and if you just use a resonable length of beer line or use the smaller 4mm ID beer line then you will get enough flow resistance not to have to bother with FC taps.
 
No this is not 100% correct. All flow control taps will have limitations on how much pressure can be absorbed by the flow control mechanism and still pour beer well. With the Genuine Intertap FC taps (not the counterfeit ones sold by KK at the moment) they are suitable to absorb 85kpa in the flow control mechanism. If you are trying to absorb more than this you can start to get more turbulance and this can cause foaming issues. So it's still a good idea to take up some of the resistance in the line if you are dispensing with more than 85kpa.

In my opinion I dont really like using the flow control taps. You really can't beat the Intertap SS taps. You will always get a better pour if you take up the resistance in the line rather than right at the point of dispence at the low pressure end of your system. I know it's really convenient to be able to control the flow rate at the tap end but it's important to remember this is the low pressure end of the system and even small amounts of turbulence at the low pressure end will cause issues with foaming. The Intertap SS taps have always poured with more laminar flow, less parts to clean/lubricate and if you just use a resonable length of beer line or use the smaller 4mm ID beer line then you will get enough flow resistance not to have to bother with FC taps.
Agreed, I have 3 intertaps ss 1 is fc and I don't use it. Actually I want to get another ss and replace it. Might offload it or use it on my party keg setup. Great tap the intertap ss
 
damm I just bought four fc intertaps haven't used em yet
 
Agreed, I have 3 intertaps ss 1 is fc and I don't use it. Actually I want to get another ss and replace it. Might offload it or use it on my party keg setup. Great tap the intertap ss

I should say we have been looking to make a new design of ball lock disconnect that will have the flow control mechanism in the ball lock disconnect. By using this flow control device at this high pressure end it can tolerate much more turbulance without causing an issue so it's a better place for a flow control mechanism to be implemented. This is only at a conceptual stage but I feel like this could be the best possible solution. Then just use the standard Intertap SS taps at the tap end.
 
I should say we have been looking to make a new design of ball lock disconnect that will have the flow control mechanism in the ball lock disconnect. By using this flow control device at this high pressure end it can tolerate much more turbulance without causing an issue so it's a better place for a flow control mechanism to be implemented. This is only at a conceptual stage but I feel like this could be the best possible solution. Then just use the standard Intertap SS taps at the tap end.
That's a great idea! I have something similar in mind but it uses existing products because I don't have an engineering department so I kinda have to MacGyver it.
 
Hey guys. Just letting you know that we wanted to try out this new promo feature on our website and see how it worked so we are going to do a hop sock promo.

Add 5 of these hop socks to your order on our website:

https://www.kegland.com.au/hop-sock-small-grain-bag-biab-540.html

Then use the promo code: HOPSOCK4MAY and you will get 5 hop socks completely FREE!

full
 
Good evening Keglandians,
Quick question. Do you have plans of having a High Pressure LPG burner in your inventory in the near future?
Cheers
Ben

Yes we have LPG gas burners that should be arriving at the end of June. With that said most of our customers seem to be going electric these days. Personally if you are building a brewery i think it's hard to go past these stick elements:
https://www.kegland.com.au/2200-watt-stainless-steel-heating-element.html

We had some issues with this design when they were first made however they have now been significantly improved so they are really very reliable now and you will probably find them cheaper than LPG to run.
 
That's a great idea! I have something similar in mind but it uses existing products because I don't have an engineering department so I kinda have to MacGyver it.

Home brewing is all about "MacGyver'ing". So if you have any tips on how other customers can also make something up please share on the forum.
 
Was mentioned somewhere in here you're opening a store in or around Dandy, how long till the doors open?
 
Just saw the mini kegs have been added to the store. Not going to mention the competition but your prices are game changing.
 
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