Kegging Setups

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Hpal said:
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Here's my setup.
Looks great - how did you support the drip tray? Just a bit of liquid nails?
 
Yeah, mine were from the US. They do show up on the Australian eBay as well because nobody has them here so it just reverts straight to the international sellers.
 
mofox1 said:
Looks great - how did you support the drip tray? Just a bit of liquid nails?
Just some black adhesive I had in a tube, anything will stick though, tile sealant, silicone, sikaflex, liquid nails etc. The drip tray comes out too to empty when/if full.
 
spog said:
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Here's my setup.[/quote

Hey Crusty look what Hpal has on the rhs of his kegerator ! :)
Yeah, seen that.
I'll install one of those little suckers soon.
I'm wiring up a couple of 12v fans tomorrow to get some air circulating around in there.
There's quite a temperature difference from the bottom of the keezer to where my lines are so that needs attention.
All these great new taps & I blew my last keg tonight. I've been a bit slack on the beer side of things as I've been brewing other forms of alcohol & haven't brewed any beers for a little while. I better get my arse into gear.
 
Hi All,

I guess i should throw up a couple of pics of my fridge conversion.

Picked up a ~300L for 60 inc. delivery and set to work.

Installed 2 Andale snaplock shanks for my SS Lancer taps
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Made a bulkhead fitting for the CO2 through the back.
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Nitto fitting on the back for quick disconnect and shut-off
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Shelfectamy performed.
With care to keep the little tap compartments.
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Then i get to this weekend and make a keg stand:
the 'whats-left-over-from-the-shed-roof' stand frame
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with some sexy shiny check plate
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In the fridge
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and populated
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four kegs comfortably nestled in there

Put some perspex on the top shelf so the bottles have something to stand on (standing bottles on a wire shelf is just annoying)
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And just a full shot for good measure including my kingchrome drip tray and the edge of my ferm freezer.
IMAG0198.jpg



Things done since the photos:
cable tying the beer lines to the upper shelf to help with the door closing, and the whole birds nest thing.


Things still yet to do:
install gas manifold. still waiting on the delivery from Cheeky Peak :(
get another tap and shank
 
Doh! This whole time I never considered if that if I remove the shelves in the door I can fit 4 kegs in my fridge. You have just revolutionised my kegging ops. Winner...
 
Crusty said:
Here's my new setup.
340lt chesty running via an STC-1000. I used 70x35mm for the collar.
6 x Andale Floryte taps with ceramic handles. Pretty basic but pretty happy to get some more kegs on tap.
It holds 6 on the floor & 2 on the hump but I went with a smaller collar so no kegs on the hump.
I had the timber lying around so just went with that.
4 way gas manifold, all JG fittings. I used 3 x 2 way dividers to supply the 6 kegs off 3 of the manifold taps. The last manifold tap will be used for force carbing.
I still need to install a PC fan for better air circulation & a little bottle opener in the far right corner of the collar.

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Hey mate, so u just take the lid off, make a frame outta pine & screw the lid to the frame?
 
Crusty said:
Here's my new setup.
340lt chesty running via an STC-1000. I used 70x35mm for the collar.
6 x Andale Floryte taps with ceramic handles. Pretty basic but pretty happy to get some more kegs on tap.
It holds 6 on the floor & 2 on the hump but I went with a smaller collar so no kegs on the hump.
I had the timber lying around so just went with that.
4 way gas manifold, all JG fittings. I used 3 x 2 way dividers to supply the 6 kegs off 3 of the manifold taps. The last manifold tap will be used for force carbing.
I still need to install a PC fan for better air circulation & a little bottle opener in the far right corner of the collar.

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How do u fix the collar to the freezer and do u insulate the collar at all?
 
Hey hooper.
The collar is simply painted white & not insulated.
The sole purpose of the collar is to add height to the freezer & somewhere to drill holes for the taps.
The lid of the freezer was simply unscrewed & reattached. My lid hinge had three screws which were previously attached to the freezer. Two screws now attach to the new collar & the bottom screw goes into a new position in the freezer.
I just used a good quality silicone sealant. A thick bead placed all the way round the new collar & the lid placed back on. I used a couple of 50lt empty kegs for a bit of extra weight on top of the lid which allowed a little excess silicone to squeeze out from the collar inside & out. It was just a matter of then running my finger inside & outside to remove the excess & ensure an airtight seal. I let it be for 5 days before reattaching the lid hinges. Super strong & airtight.
 
Mozz said:
Doh! This whole time I never considered if that if I remove the shelves in the door I can fit 4 kegs in my fridge. You have just revolutionised my kegging ops. Winner...

Yup.

i could only fit 2 kegs and the CO2 tank (narrower than a keg) in there before the shelf removal.
It was a toss up as to weather the 4th would fit. but i knew it would let me fit 3.
 
Crusty said:
Hey hooper.
The collar is simply painted white & not insulated.
The sole purpose of the collar is to add height to the freezer & somewhere to drill holes for the taps.
The lid of the freezer was simply unscrewed & reattached. My lid hinge had three screws which were previously attached to the freezer. Two screws now attach to the new collar & the bottom screw goes into a new position in the freezer.
I just used a good quality silicone sealant. A thick bead placed all the way round the new collar & the lid placed back on. I used a couple of 50lt empty kegs for a bit of extra weight on top of the lid which allowed a little excess silicone to squeeze out from the collar inside & out. It was just a matter of then running my finger inside & outside to remove the excess & ensure an airtight seal. I let it be for 5 days before reattaching the lid hinges. Super strong & airtight.
So did u need and new rubbers on the top of the collar or does the lid do all the sealing with its rubbers? I think it's a bloody good idea mate.
 
Rocker1986 said:
That looks awesome Moad! Do you have much issue with foaming from the exposed beer lines at all?
I thought I would but nope, running 6mm lines (3m@4 degrees) as well which is odd. It is probably 12 degrees under there at the moment so in summer it might be more of an issue. Just have to make sure to keep fresh beer moving through :ph34r:
 
hooper80 said:
So did u need and new rubbers on the top of the collar or does the lid do all the sealing with its rubbers? I think it's a bloody good idea mate.
The rubber is the original one that was on the lid.
The freezer's a few years old & I might look at replacing the seal at a later stage but not necessary as yet.
The main thing to look out for is that the top & bottom of the timber collar is as straight as possible. I made sure mine was planed top & bottom & was perfectly straight. The bottom of the collar was unpainted & the freezer was lightly sanded just to rough up the surface a tad for the silicone to bond to. It's a solid as a rock.
If I was doing it again, I would install a larger timber collar for a bit more height. My freezer lid has a step down rim which drops down into the freezer which meant I had to drop the height of my gas manifold a bit to compensate. A bigger timber collar will allow you a bit more room to play with.
I also installed a 12V computer fan wired to a 12V power supply to move some air around in there. Before the fan, the bottom of the freezer was sitting @3deg but where my lines were, it was a few degrees warmer so the fan is a must.

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Crusty said:
The rubber is the original one that was on the lid.
The freezer's a few years old & I might look at replacing the seal at a later stage but not necessary as yet.
The main thing to look out for is that the top & bottom of the timber collar is as straight as possible. I made sure mine was planed top & bottom & was perfectly straight. The bottom of the collar was unpainted & the freezer was lightly sanded just to rough up the surface a tad for the silicone to bond to. It's a solid as a rock.
If I was doing it again, I would install a larger timber collar for a bit more height. My freezer lid has a step down rim which drops down into the freezer which meant I had to drop the height of my gas manifold a bit to compensate. A bigger timber collar will allow you a bit more room to play with.
I also installed a 12V computer fan wired to a 12V power supply to move some air around in there. Before the fan, the bottom of the freezer was sitting @3deg but where my lines were, it was a few degrees warmer so the fan is a must.

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Thanks this is all good to know, I'm not sure weather I want to go with the taps mounted on the collar or put a font on top with a font fan. My fridges sit in my 6x3 tin garden shed which I have lined and transformed into my sin bin (man cave), so I'm a bit governed by width which makes the font more appealing.
 
I really like fonts but they can be plagued with foaming issues.
Getting the font cool & keeping it cool is the challenge. If I had the coin, I would of went with a glycol chilled font but the 6 tap model was way out of my price range.
A font fan will definitely help & some guys run a cheaper option with a little pump & a container of glycol in a freezer to cool it down. I think the very first beer of the day will be a little heady & that's pretty common with every system until the tap cools down. Quite a few guys on here running successful font setups & I'm sure they'll point you in the right direction. Good luck with it, whichever way you go.
 

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