Keg Transfer Made Easy...

[bradsbrew]

I'm having a few problems with the this transfer method. once it gets about halfway it starts to really slow, and I get bubbles in the liquid line.
After this I then have to give the relief valve on receiving keg a pull every few minutes to keep the flow going. I take it that I should be able to pretty much transfer unattended after the initial release of gas. Do the symptoms sound like a slight leak in my line, or maybe i'm not putting enough gas in receiving tank initially? It always seem at the half way mark that it slows/stops.

I leave the PRV open the whole time during the transfer. Wouldnt the pressure just balance otherwise? If you are getting bubbles in the line either your sucking air or the co2 is coming out of suspension due to the temp change?

 

[AndrewQLD]

I agree with Brad, as the receiving keg fills if it's a closed system the pressure will increase and slow the flow down, newly fermented beer holds gas, especially if it's cold beer and this will come out of the beer and form bubbles as it warms.

 

[black_labb]

The method as describes uses gravity as opposed to gas pressure to create the flow of beer. By connecting both gas lines the pressure remains equal between the kegs. If you open the PRV you are allowing the pressure to release until it reaches atmospheric pressure in the head space (or head spaces if the gas posts are both connected, or both PRV's are open). By having the pressure in the headspace and the beer the co2 won't come out of solution. With the PRV open then you are likely to get foaming.

 

[gordo_t]

It does sound like you're sucking in some air somewhere during the transfer. Once a siphon starts, it really should continue till finished.


Cheers Ross

I'm transferring carbonated beer, and I pressurise the receiving keg well before I start the transfer (and only give the prv a quick release before siphon starts going). I sprayed down the disconnects etc last time looking for leaks but found no obvious ones. But once the transfer starts to stop and I give the prv another pull, I do often get a gurgling noise.

Also the first keg would heat up a degree or two during the transfer since its sitting out of the fridge for about halfa, would the co2 coming out of suspension have anything to do with it?

 

[gordo_t]

I'm transferring carbonated beer, and I pressurise the receiving keg well before I start the transfer (and only give the prv a quick release before siphon starts going). I sprayed down the disconnects etc last time looking for leaks but found no obvious ones. But once the transfer starts to stop and I give the prv another pull, I do often get a gurgling noise.

Also the first keg would heat up a degree or two during the transfer since its sitting out of the fridge for about halfa, would the co2 coming out of suspension have anything to do with it?

New JG fittings all round, and swapped out the cheap liquid disconnects for the better ones, Problem Solved.
Must have been a leak there somewhere, latest transfer was completely smooth.

 

[Tb1978]

Any reason this method wouldn't work with a commercial keg? I've just setup my kegerator and need beer for a party in 4 weeks, not yet started the home brew.. Thought it would be good to get a few 50ltr kegs, transfer into 20ltr kegs, that way I can have a few beers or beer and cider in the kegerator all hooked up, and put the remainder 20ltr kegs in a old beer fridge in the garage and swap over as needed.. My kegerator only fits 1 x 50ltr or 3 x 20ltr.. Anyone done this?

 

[Drew]

I used a 50l keg coupler for the first time last night to transfer to a 12l keg. But all I got was slow downs, foam in the line and the need to pull the PRV about a thousand times. I gave up after getting probably 4 litres done in half an hour.

* 50 litre keg is raised above the height of the 12 litre
* Both kegs at room temperature
* Pressure equalised at 14-16 psi between kegs using grey disconnect straight to CUB disconnect
* Black disconnect to CUB
* Pull PRV to start flow.

Then is just slows down to a bubbly trickle.
Does anyone have a checklist for resolving? I've done corny to corny heaps of times without difficulty.

 

[mckenry]

I used a 50l keg coupler for the first time last night to transfer to a 12l keg. But all I got was slow downs, foam in the line and the need to pull the PRV about a thousand times. I gave up after getting probably 4 litres done in half an hour.

* 50 litre keg is raised above the height of the 12 litre
* Both kegs at room temperature
* Pressure equalised at 14-16 psi between kegs using grey disconnect straight to CUB disconnect
* Black disconnect to CUB
* Pull PRV to start flow.

Then is just slows down to a bubbly trickle.
Does anyone have a checklist for resolving? I've done corny to corny heaps of times without difficulty.

Once the pressure equalises, the flow will stop. Thats why you had to pull the PRV a thousand times. You either need to leave the PRV open, or loop the gas out back to your 50L keg. Its easier to leave the PRV open.
I once had the same slowing problem, but it was the beer disconnect on the commercial coupler. It was stuffed and wouldnt let beer out properly.

Edit v- just re-read your post, you did close the loop. Sorry, try point 2.

 

[Drew]

Shizer though - how do I identify if the commercial coupler has a problem? (I only purchased the coupler 15 hours ago so it should still be covered by warranty.)

It does have a valve in the stem, perhaps I could try running it without the valve in case it's introducing eddies. It also had a strangely placed spring on the beer output.

Thanks for the thoughts.

 

[mckenry]

Hope it's not too late. I meant the beer disconnect that you clip onto the commercial coupler was buggered.

 

[Drew]

Oh cheers for the clarification. In fact It's just a 6mm barb at that end.

 

[paulgcorfu]

the beer coupling on the commercial keg will have a one way valve on the gas in (either a rubber piece or a ball )
I assume that as the beer leaves the commercial keg that the vacuum created is enough to open the one way valve and allow the gas from the corny in.
I have never tried it but I need to know as I will soon have the same setup/problem.Acommercial keg in my fridge but my kegerator when completed only holding 1 commercial keg or 2 cornys

 

[Drew]

Paulgcorfu, you nailed it!

I removed the valve

And the keg to keg transfer went flawlessly.

Cheers!

 

[hugcra]

I am loving this method ! Thanks to all

 

[Lovemebeer]

sorry guys just asking another novice question, new to kegging, once pressurising the keg ready to carbonate and sticking it in the fridge, can you disconnect the gas connect and let it sit disconnected for a week or so,so i can turn the psi down to my pouring pressure? i only have one co2 bottle and im not force carbonating

 

[RobB]

.......Simply connect the 2 gas posts of the 2 kegs together, having purged the recieving keg with CO2 first - This equalises the gas..............Put 1 keg below the other & then give the relief valve of the lower keg a quick release to start the flow...................

I'll be trying this method in a few weeks and, while it has obviously been used successfully by plenty of you, there's one thing which is bugging me.

If the gas posts are already connected, doesn't that mean that by pulling the relief valve of the lower keg, you are releasing pressure from both kegs equally? If so, how does the siphon get started without a pressure difference?

 

[barls]

have them disconnected and pull to start and then hook them up.
it will keep going.

 

[abyss]

Thanks Ross it worked for me.

 

[wildwhitty]

I use a keg with a modified dip tube as a secondary fermenter. It has a 30 Psi relief valve. Transfer to the serving keg after the cold crash. Work every times. Straight on tap.

 

[earle]

Thanks Ross it worked for me.

Also worked for me on the weekend. Was transferring from a 19l keg to a 9l keg. Started with the 19L keg sitting on a large paint tin but worked better when I lifted it up onto my workbench. A bit of extra height made for a stronger siphon effect.