The elements seem to be the goods so far but don't expect much after sales support. There was a bloke who had an issue with one of his elements and when he brought it up on the forum it was quickly deleted and the bloke banned. Not sure if the bloke got a replacement or not in the end.
Keg King Elements
- Thread starter QldKev
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Thanks for that Kev,I think the holes in my keggle are 32 mm ,I currently have 2 Kmart kettle elements in it so at some stage I may upgrade.QldKev said:
The elements you have compared to those I use would cut cleaning times by a hell of a lot.
Cheers....spog..
denemc
Active Member
How is everyone finding the 5 star elements? I've just had one of my two keg king elements blow and I'm looking for something that easily slots in. These look really similar to the keg king ones and I thought maybe they are manufactured in the same factory just with better wiring.
I thought about the "butterfly" shaped ones at ibrew but they look like a pain to clean. Plus my chiller would snap them off pretty quickly.
I thought about the "butterfly" shaped ones at ibrew but they look like a pain to clean. Plus my chiller would snap them off pretty quickly.
StalkingWilbur
Well-Known Member
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I've got two 5 star. Been going strong for about six months. Even after we had a tonne of crap burn onto them and they had to be soaked and boiled with a cleaner and scraped off, they're still going good.
Yob
Hop to it
You what? Gotta be more to it than just product reviewjonnir said:
sp0rk
Mayor of Pooptown
I'm about to buy 2 of them for certain purposes...Hairy Goat said:
I've heard nothing but good things about them, the guy that owns 5 Star said they are made in China, but he's pretty rigorous with the quality control from them
denemc
Active Member
Can anyone tell me the diameter of the actual element (5 star)? My current keg king ones are close together and any bigger and they won't fit.
sp0rk
Mayor of Pooptown
Weldless or screw in?Hairy Goat said:
fraser_john
Go Pies
Are these Keg King elements the same one that Craftbrewer sells? I just converted my kettle to electric and used the Craftbrewer one, only brewed twice, but even though it is 2200W rated, still need an extra over the side element to keep a good boil going.
Kicking myself for down grading to a 10A only supply instead of the 20A I had at the last house :angry:
Kicking myself for down grading to a 10A only supply instead of the 20A I had at the last house :angry:
TheWiggman
Haters' gonna hate
The very same fraser_john. I'd advise you to take good care of the over-the-side unit, because chances are it'll be your only element soon enough 
No idea mate, I just see what I see over there. A bloke says something about his gear and the post and user moved on promptly.Yob said:
Haven't had a drama yet with the one I've got but as said, don't hold out much for after sales service.
Eagleburger
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Would the 3600W burn the wort? I want to boil 50-60l, in your experience what wattage is needed?
TheWiggman
Haters' gonna hate
I use a 3600W element, boils like the blazes. Can't see why it'd get any hotter than the 2400W, just pumps more energy in. 50-60l would be a good size for it, it's overkill for 28l.
No my beer does not taste burnt.
No my beer does not taste burnt.
pedleyr
Well-Known Member
Doesn't more energy in over the same surface area = hotter? If not, where is the energy going?
TheWiggman
Haters' gonna hate
The 3600W element I use is longer than my 2400W overall. More surface area = more energy for same J/m^2 in this case.
For a case of a boiling tub of liquid, my understanding is the liquid maintains the surface temp of the element at its boiling point. As soon as it's hit, the liquid vaporises, escapes, and the next bit of near-boiling liquid touches it and converts to a gas. Hence the more energy the more vigorous the boil, but not necessarily more heat at the element.
In reality the element surface will probably be ever so slightly hotter on an element with more power per unit area, but for all practical purposes this would be irrelevant.
Happy to be corrected.
For a case of a boiling tub of liquid, my understanding is the liquid maintains the surface temp of the element at its boiling point. As soon as it's hit, the liquid vaporises, escapes, and the next bit of near-boiling liquid touches it and converts to a gas. Hence the more energy the more vigorous the boil, but not necessarily more heat at the element.
In reality the element surface will probably be ever so slightly hotter on an element with more power per unit area, but for all practical purposes this would be irrelevant.
Happy to be corrected.
pedleyr
Well-Known Member
Ok so it's more surface area, question answered. My post was qualified by asking if it's the same energy over the same surface area.
The element with higher watt density will get hotter, it's inescapable isn't it, otherwise the energy vanishes. It may well be that it just boils the water touching it faster, but that means there is more heat generated, it is just being extracted by changing the state of the liquid.
The element with higher watt density will get hotter, it's inescapable isn't it, otherwise the energy vanishes. It may well be that it just boils the water touching it faster, but that means there is more heat generated, it is just being extracted by changing the state of the liquid.
fraser_john
Go Pies
Yep, it is all about W/mm^2(power density), the higher wattage elements usually have a double folded length and sometimes the power density is actually lower than the lower wattage elements!
The concern with power density is wort scorching or excessive caramelisation of the wort during the boil resulting in darker wort (not good for pilsners and other pale beers). To be honest though, I've not heard of anyone using an electric kettle having the problem, be interested in hearing stories of those that have though.
Even when I was running a RIMS instead of a HERMS, I had no trouble with direct contact of the wort on the element while ramping step temps.
The concern with power density is wort scorching or excessive caramelisation of the wort during the boil resulting in darker wort (not good for pilsners and other pale beers). To be honest though, I've not heard of anyone using an electric kettle having the problem, be interested in hearing stories of those that have though.
Even when I was running a RIMS instead of a HERMS, I had no trouble with direct contact of the wort on the element while ramping step temps.
B
bradsbrew
Guest
Would 2 of the 2400's boil 100-120L?
fraser_john
Go Pies
Based on what I have seen with a 2200W one in my kettle, even with 1" of insulation around the outside and underneath, two 2400's would struggle to maintain a good rolling boil in 120L :unsure:bradsbrew said:
But....it is hard to tell, maybe they could keep the heat going better than a single???????
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