rotten
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I need to know I can master K&K before going in head first into AG.
Don't ya mean K&KIAB?
I need to know I can master K&K before going in head first into AG.
Nick's thread is particularly user-friendly and very, very light on with the technical stuff. If you're not quite grasping it yet just do a few more kit brews (then kit & bits brews) until you feel like you've learned as much as you can there then look into AG again and it will probably all click into place.There's too much stuff to read and not enough how to threads like NickJD's.
Yeah, that's probably a pretty good assessment but the word "easiest" is kinda tricky. It isn't really a sneaky back-door into AG brewing where you don't need to understand the fundamentals (as much as some people want to try to gloss over them). The gear and process can be simpler with BIAB (but even that depends who you ask) but you still need to know what you're doing and why (you can get away without understanding the why on a chemical level for as long as you like though, IMO, but it might stop your great beers from progressing to excellent beers - I'd settle for great beers any day of the week).I just want to make some good beer and thought the BIAB method was the cheapest easiest way to do it.
^this - or maybe someone who knows of any good youtube BIAB vids might like to put up some links.seeing someone do it and explain on the way can help cement the ideas.
Hey Steve, I'm only new to BIAB as well and it took me a few reads to get my head around the process but I've done couple now and it looks to be working. Here's were it seems you're having some trouble.
Think about your kit brew first. You take a can of goop, add it to some water, chuck in your kilo of enhancer and you've got 23 litres of sweet sugary stuff ready to add yeast and seal up. Take a snapshot right here and call this "Point A".
Now lets have a look at the Brew in a Bag method. You buy some cracked grains, some hops, a big pan and a bag. You fill your big pan with water, heat it up to about 70 degrees, throw in your bag and then fill the bag with your cracked grains. This then sits in the pan for 60 to 90 minutes while the hot water removes the sugar from the grains. Once the 60 - 90 minutes is up, you pull the bag and grains from the pot and you're left with a pan full of sweet sugary stuff, but you're only half way there.
To add the bitterness and aroma that we love this sugar water is now brought to the boil and hops are added at various times throughout the boiling process which normally lasts for about an hour. Hops added at the start of the boil generally do the bittering, hops added later are for flavour and aroma. Once the boiling is finished you cover the pot and stick it on the concrete floor to cool it down. When it's cooled you throw it into your fermenter and you're ready to add the yeast. You've now reached the very same "Point A" (with hopefully some better quality sweet sugary stuff) that you had achieved with the kit brew.
The point here is that all the BIAB work has already been done on that kit can of goop that you used to make up the first brew. Someone else has done it for you, concentrated it and stuck it in a can, so there's no longer any need for a bag or grains or hops or boiling. Those things are only necessary if you don't want to use the can.
I hope this is helpful. For those in the know, it's supposed to be a very light, general overview from one beginner to another so please be gentle.
edit - typing at the same time as kelby, so looks like I've repeated a bunch of stuff.
Hey Steve, I'm only new to BIAB as well and it took me a few reads to get my head around the process but I've done couple now and it looks to be working. Here's were it seems you're having some trouble.
Think about your kit brew first. You take a can of goop, add it to some water, chuck in your kilo of enhancer and you've got 23 litres of sweet sugary stuff ready to add yeast and seal up. Take a snapshot right here and call this "Point A".
Now lets have a look at the Brew in a Bag method. You buy some cracked grains, some hops, a big pan and a bag. You fill your big pan with water, heat it up to about 70 degrees, throw in your bag and then fill the bag with your cracked grains. This then sits in the pan for 60 to 90 minutes while the hot water removes the sugar from the grains. Once the 60 - 90 minutes is up, you pull the bag and grains from the pot and you're left with a pan full of sweet sugary stuff, but you're only half way there.
To add the bitterness and aroma that we love this sugar water is now brought to the boil and hops are added at various times throughout the boiling process which normally lasts for about an hour. Hops added at the start of the boil generally do the bittering, hops added later are for flavour and aroma. Once the boiling is finished you cover the pot and stick it on the concrete floor to cool it down. When it's cooled you throw it into your fermenter and you're ready to add the yeast. You've now reached the very same "Point A" (with hopefully some better quality sweet sugary stuff) that you had achieved with the kit brew.
The point here is that all the BIAB work has already been done on that kit can of goop that you used to make up the first brew. Someone else has done it for you, concentrated it and stuck it in a can, so there's no longer any need for a bag or grains or hops or boiling. Those things are only necessary if you don't want to use the can.
I hope this is helpful. For those in the know, it's supposed to be a very light, general overview from one beginner to another so please be gentle.
edit - typing at the same time as kelby, so looks like I've repeated a bunch of stuff.
Now I'll put my hand up and say that I am in no way an expert in home brewing with only 2 months and about 10 brews under my belt but I might just jump in here.
I watched for a number of years my neighbour homebrew, and all he did was get a coopers kit and follow the instructions on the pack - kit, sugar, and water in the fermenter, and pitch the yeast. To be honest, I had no enthusiasm to home brew from that experience. What did get me into it was going to the Bitter and Twisted festival in Maitland last year. My brother and I sat with the Hunter United Brewers all day, and we watched Mark from Mark's Home Brew (Newcastle) do an all grain. At the time much of it went over my head but my brother threw himself into all grain brews.
As for myself, I made a tentative step into it, and this is where I might be able to help you Steve.
This is my process.
Cooper's Pale Ale kit
Brew Enhancer 2
150g Crystal Grain
12g hops
Coopers yeast
Now before anyone jumps at me and says that the coopers yeast is rubbish, my aim was simply to see what would be produced, and to get the experience.
In a 10 litre pot, bring about 5 litres of water to 70 degrees and turn off the heat.
Tie the grain up loosely in a bag made of swiss voile and add to the water. This will bring the temp back to the required 68 degrees.
Put the lid on the pot and cover with as many blankets and towels as possible and leave for 60 minutes.
Take the grain bag out and sit in a strainer over a bowl. When the grain bag is cool enough, give it a good squeeze and add the liquid in the bowl to the pot.
Bring the pot with the grain flavoured liquid to a 30 minutes boil.
Near the end of the boil, add the BE2 and stir through
Add the liquid from the pot to the fermenter, and add water to about 10 litres.
Pour in Coopers kit and stir through.
Fill to 20 litres, put fermenter lid on and airlock, and sit on the verandah until cool enough to pitch the yeast.
When cool enough, put hops in tea cup, add some boiling water and cover with glad wrap for 10 minutes.
Pour hops and water from tea cup into fermenter and stir like a bugger to get as much aeration into it.
Pitch yeast.
I have done this process a number of times using Citra, Amarillo, Fuggles, Nelson Sauvin, Cascade and Pride of Ringwood hops, just to see what the hops add. From my experience, this is a nice step towards all grain, and with a 40 litre urn turning up tomorrow, that time will be upon me very soon.
The addition of grain and hops adds very little to the cost of the beer. I simply bought a kilo of crystal grain ($5), and 50 grams of each of the hops (about $5 each). What it adds to the taste of the beer is what's important, and I have been pleased with the results. No where near all grain quality but miles ahead of just the kit and sugar. My neighbour, the kit and sugar neighbour came over to taste my first beer, took one taste, and told me he was giving up homebrewing and that he would just come over to my place and drink mine.
Wow cool lockupgarage, wish I had on of those![]()
Anyway. Ill try somthing like this and leave the bag for the pros. Do all the guys who make good AG beer use the BIAB methond or most use a 3V set up? It seems that 3V is best but I like my esky and don't want to cut it up.
Do I have too use an airlock, I keep reading about kittens or some **** from posts about a year or two back and I don't get it.
Why would someone harm a kitten, couldn't they just give it away or something. If that Butters guy killed a kitten then he needs help cos I love cats and as much as I find this beer thing confusing killing a kitten it just wrong.
Is that why he got banned?
Two things.....
1. Dont worry about the kitten.
Its a joke that was thrown around a long time ago, and its getting really tired. I didnt think it was funny the first time, but others keep laughing at it. No kitten was harmed.
2. Re: best method??
Impossible to say. Depends on your criteria as to how you define the parameters for 'best'.
Im a 3v brewer who is starting to lean towards biab. Only due to time constraints, and ease of setup and pack down.
Beers are comparable, but a 3v rig sure looks pretty sexy. Still, i value my spare time, and no one really notices my brewery anyway, so now im doing the biab thing........with a little, little bit of bling....
Forget the kitten thing (look up internet meme then do your best to forget they exist as there's no point to them).
Hope your posts are genuine.
If they are, learn about fermentation, then look at extract and steeping grains, then look at mashing. In the mean time read about beer - even if you don't get it first time, re-read, try something out you read and watch someone else do it. It all adds up.
Kittens get stuck in my airlock all the time, it'a ******* problem I tell ya, a bit like bluewaffle. Butters saw the light and tried to enlighten us all but got banned in the process. Beer somebody was nearly killed by such a kitten in his early brewing days IIRC.
Good Luck
Do I have too use an airlock, I keep reading about kittens or some **** from posts about a year or two back and I don't get it.
Why would someone harm a kitten, couldn't they just give it away or something. If that Butters guy killed a kitten then he needs help cos I love cats and as much as I find this beer thing confusing killing a kitten it just wrong.
Is that why he got banned?
And...Kits in a bag, now kitten references.![]()
Yasmani has much pishab yet?
ach i does not want to be making some sisterfuking indian brewings, yaar. my tastes is for usa style.
Mike Klitorus
This guy has been trolling the board with this whole thread from the start. Kits in a bag, now kitten references.![]()
Way to waste everyone's time, mate.
And...
- Boiling Grain
- Using Old Tins
- Spending $30 on a single batch
similar troll to that dipstick last week with the red font?
Sure "steve". Go meet with mike l'torus on brewday if you are genuine.
you could talk about botulism. And airlocks.