How not to destory a Chest Freezer

[Colo]

Hello,

I have finally taken the plunge and purchased myself a second hand F & P chest freezer to convert into a fermentation chamber. I need to get two cables into the freezer, namely the temp sensor and the power cable for the heat mat/belt.

I'm thinking that drilling through the side of the freezer may be dangerous causing a gas leak rendering the freezer useless. It has little rubber feet on the bottom meaning I can have cable running underneath the freezer and drill up through the bottom on the opposite side from the compressor shelf...?

Would appreciate any advice.

Cheers! :drinks:

 

[scooterism]

I myself, would cut a little channel in the seal before wildly drilling holes willy nilly..

 

[Phoney]

I myself, would cut a little channel in the seal before wildly drilling holes willy nilly..

+1

I just put the lid down over the two cables. The amount of air that can get in or out through the tiny gap around the seal is bugger all.

 

[MickGC]

Build a hood for it out of timber to lift the lid up a bit then drill through the timber

 

[Ducatiboy stu]

Make sure it is really dry then turn it on

Grab a spray bottle full of water and adjust it to get a fine mist

After the freezer has been on for 20m or so mist the walls and floor, you should soon see where the cooling tubes are

 

[Feldon]

Like MickGC said, build a wooden collar for the chest freeze and drill holes in the wood (gives you move freezer volume too).

 

[Maheel]

does it have a drain hole in the bottom ? go through that maybe ?

do you really need a heat belt in bris ? i dont bother heating my ferment fridge to often at the moment ...

 

[Kev R]

From my experiance (3 so far, only buy 2nd hand cheapies) all the nasties are on the back wall and one case as part of the shelves.
pretty sure the sides and lid would be ok.
If you want to be sure drill a 10mm hole just through the sheet metal then dig the insulation out and have a look. I dont think anything will be close to the outside cladding (too hot). If you cut a piece of hose or pipe just short of the length of your drill bit it will help stop you from drilling to deep.

 

[Rocker1986]

do you really need a heat belt in bris ? i dont bother heating my ferment fridge to often at the moment ...

Never needed one ever in my ferment fridge. The temps rarely downswing under ferment temps and if they do it's by so little that it doesn't even matter anyway.

 

[timmi9191]

go through the lid

 

[Colo]

does it have a drain hole in the bottom ? go through that maybe ?

do you really need a heat belt in bris ? i dont bother heating my ferment fridge to often at the moment ...

I like my Hefe's, so want to keep the ferment temp up in winter. In summer, yeah prob not needed.

 

[Blind Dog]

If you're only running cables in, I'd second cutting a small channel in the seal rather than drilling through the sides or base. If it's anything larger, add a timber collar

 

[Colo]

If you're only running cables in, I'd second cutting a small channel in the seal rather than drilling through the sides or base. If it's anything larger, add a timber collar

The collar is an interesting idea, because of the shelf I cant get the fermentor in with an airlock, I was going to run a pipe down to a glass of water instead. I would be able to have an airlock if i built a collar.

 

[Ducatiboy stu]

Airlock ?

 

[contrarian]

I've used chest freezers for fermenting for a few years now and just run the cables under the lid. I've used a lamp in there as a heater for making saisons in the cooler months and it works fine!

Also glad wrap is your friend!

 

[Batz]

I've used chest freezers for fermenting for a few years now and just run the cables under the lid. I've used a lamp in there as a heater for making saisons in the cooler months and it works fine!

Also glad wrap is your friend!

I do the same, I find the seal molds around the cable no problem.

 

[Rocker1986]

I can't fit mine into my brew fridge with an airlock IF I want to use the shelf above to store bottles on, which I always do. Solution = duct tape over the hole in the lid.

 

[Chris7]

If you are set on going through the side of the freezer, use a soldering iron to melt through the plastic and insulation from the inside of the freezer (in a well ventilated area) then drill through the metal once you have a clear path. I have done this for 3 fridges with great success after paper weighting the first a few years ago after drilling blindly.

 

[Matplat]

For real, just run the cables through the open door on the hinge edge. That way the door will apply enough pressure by itself to keep closed and deform the seal around the cables.

If you decide to just use it as a freezer in the future, the seal will go back to it's original shape (although it may take a while to do so).

 

[Bribie G]

I brewed in SEQ for 4 years and my heat belt hung off a hook the whole time.
I then moved to the Mid North Coast of NSW where the winters were a bit rugged compared to SEQ. I even had to buy a gas room heater.

My heat belt hung off a hook the whole time.

Now I've moved again; the heat belt is enjoying the ride and it's back on its favourite hook.



I've got cables running into my Kegmate fridges for font snakes etc, doesn't do the seals any harm and I'd expect freezers would be the same.