How Do You Fill Your Kegs?

[NickB]

Must clarify: I leave the lid off the keg while filling to keep an eye on the level.

Cheers!

 

[Fourstar]

Be interested to know how those who fill through the Beer QD post are able to monitor the liquid level. Cold beer shows condensation on the outside of the keg but is not very accurate as there is some lag time before condensation forms. Used to fill this way but gave it away for the simpler approach..... fill watch stop at the weldline about 10mm below the gas in post. No point in filling above this as most will be wasted in experimentation/testing to see if the beer is good to go.

Must clarify: I leave the lid off the keg while filling to keep an eye on the level.
Cheers!

Pretty much what nickb does, except i have my lid closed and i open it whenever i want to check it, usually when im up to the last few L in the fermenter just to gague if im going to go over. I also fill my fermenter to 20-21L as im filtering from fermenter to keg with no vision to bottle any beer off. It vary rarely exceeds this volume. Given the beer lost to trub and filter housing im usually looking at around 2L if im not feeling like a tightarse. Given that, its typically 18-19L into the keg anyway. So its pretty much a set-and-forget operation for me.

Also for the OP'er see the following thread for a pic of how i fill from fermenter to keg. The JG fitting w/ silicone hose plugs onto the fermenter tap with a line to the filter, then a length of line from the filter goes to a JG fitting onto the beer out post. You can ignore the filter for your purposes. I also purge via the beer out post with CO2 before filling as well.

http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum//ind...st&p=650692

Cheers. :icon_cheers:

 

[argon]

I've posted this before. When i first got the keeg setup i wanted to write down everything to get my processes in place. I've since added a filter in line when filling the keg. But for the purposes of the OP this should get you by. Theses process do use a fair bit of gas to push everything about though. So if you want to save on gas for the cleaning part should be no worries.


Assume and empty keg, line, taps etc

Cleaning Kegs lines and taps (full clean)*
1 - Fill keg with 5L napisan and water at correct dosage
2 - Seal keg, connect gas and beer out fittings and pressurize to low pressure (approx 40kpa)
3 - Take 5 mins to run through lines and taps, open and shut taps repeatedly
4 - Collect run-off into another keg/fermenter etc.
5- (Repeat Optional) depressurize keg and pour back in to repeat steps 2 4
6 - Dispose of Napisan solution (or use for other cleaning)
7 - Fill keg with 5L Starsan and water at correct dosage
8 - Seal keg, connect gas and beer out fittings and pressurize to low pressure (approx 40kpa)
9 - Take 5 mins to run through lines and taps, open and shut taps repeatedly
10 - Collect run-off into another keg/fermenter etc
11 - (Repeat Optional) depressurize keg and pour back in to repeat steps 7 9
12 - Dispose of Starsan solution (or use for other cleaning)
13 - Depressurize keg or fill with more beer via transfer method as below;

*typical clean is 5L of napisan solution shake and leave 24 hrs. Open and dispose.
Wash everything with tap water, spray all with starsan and leave to dry

Fermenter through filter to Keg Transfer (after cleaning routine)
1 Purge and pressurize keg with CO2
2 - Detach beer and gas fittings from keg
3 - Connect beer out tube to filter out point
4 Connect filter in tube to filter with gravity fill adaptor in place
5 Purge beer out tube and filter with CO2
6 Connect filter in tube to fermenter tap (keeping tap closed)
5 - Open (and keep open) pressure release valve to purge keg
6 - Open fermenter tap
7 - Beer will now start transferring from fermenter through filter to keg via beer out tube to bottom of keg
8 - Fill to below weld line (watch for condensation line on exterior of keg)
9 - Close Pressure release valve
10 - Allow to carbonate at serving pressure over time or force carb as per below

Keg Force Carbontation (after transfer routine)
1 - Detach all fittings from keg
2 - Attach beer disconnect fitting to gas line
3 - Connect to beer out post
4 - Adjust regulator to 300kpa
5 - Rock keg upright for 30 seconds (ale), or 45 seconds (lager/wheat)
6 - Remove disconnect fitting from beer out post
7 - Wait 15 - 20 mins for beer foam to disperse inside keg then vent the keg via pressure release valve
8 - Connect gas disconnect fitting to keg gas in post
9 - Reset regulator to preferred serving pressure (approx 80kpa)
10 - Rock until bubbling ceases into the keg whilst holding non return valve to feel vibration as CO2 passes through
11 - When vibration ceases, equilibrium is achieved
12 - Connect beer fitting (connected to taps) to beer out post
13 -Serve carbed beer enjoy

Note:
If storing keg filled with Napisan/Starsan/Cleaner always store full. Corrosion may occur at fill line. Stainless Steel differential corrosion.

 

[the_yobbo]

Thanks for replies all.

Fourstar: Yeah, that was the thread that introduced me to the idea of filling the keg via beer out posts.

Having a closed environment seems a good idea to reduce risk of infection, but not being able to see the fill level could be an issue. I imagine that condensation, smartstrips or feeling the temperature on the outside of the keg would be accurate enough for determining the fill level of the keg (assuming beer is cold). It's not like the level increases increadibly fast.

I hadn't thought of the advantage of being able to swap the QD to a second keg with ease. That would be very handy if doing 40L brews.

End of the day, it seems a silicone hose to the bottom of the keg is still more widely practiced. But if you've got some spare dollars or if you already have the appropriate equipement, you can fill via the keg out post and there are possibly some advantages in doing so.

 

[glaab]

I'm with HB79 and Screwy, the KISS method is faster and less work.

 

[roger mellie]

I believe that you need to keep Oxygen away from the process of filling kegs wherever possible.

In 9/10 cases (except naturally carbed beers and wheaties) I use my peristaltic pump through a filter. I always chill down to 2 degC and leave for a day - about 4 hours before kegging I add polyclar.

The out port of the filter goes into the Out Post of the keg - which will have been purged with CO2 (as has the filter after sterilising in starsan) - I fill with a positive pressure in the keg and tug on the pressure relief a few times during the fill stage.

As soon as the keg is full I force carb using the tried and true Ross method. Total time from starting the process (cleaning included) to sampling the first pour is about 1 Hour.

I find that the beer takes 2 days to settle down and the carbonation to settle down.



Before carb



After carb



Cheers

RM

 

[captaincleanoff]

craftbrewer is currently offline, but basically ignore everything everyone has said above and do the following.

1 - Wait for craft brewer to come back online
2 - Purchase the silicone to 8mm beer line John Guest adapter thingy.
3 - Push silicone tube over fermenter tap.
4 - Connect standard beer line to john guest fitting of the adapter, and the other end to john guest fitting of your beer disconnect.
5 - Open pressure relief valve on keg.
6 - Open fermenter tap.
7 - Never go back to your old inferior method. I know I won't ever rack the old way ever again.

The adapter I'm talking about is the best value for money thing I've bought as far as home brew gear goes. Get on it.

this. Wouldn't do it any other way

 

[MarkBastard]

yeah I need pics ..I am doing it the inferior way I think.

correct me if wrong but you put beer into the keg via the out ( outlet) on the keg?
With the little purge relief valve open??? mine is spring loaded ...can I get it to stay open somehow?

Is the actual lid on the keg?
if so...
How do I know when it is full?

Yep it goes into the beer out post of the keg, that way the beer travels all the way to the bottom of the keg. You keep the purge relief valve open that way the beer going in pushes out the air or co2 in the keg through the relief valve. If you wanted to, you could do this same method with the lid fully off. To keep a pressure relief valve open just twist it sideways after pulling it.

If you have the lid on you can use the condensation level on the side of the keg. That's what I do, but I also know because of the foam coming out the pressure relief valve because I sanitise with Starsan.

So what are the benefits of this method over other ways?
One might be that you are filling to an already sealed environment I suppose but others?

How do you know when the keg is full when you can't see the line?

I'm not disagreeing, just curious as to what makes this method so superior...

Edit: like he said above, damn kids distracting me from beer questions

I basically start with a clean keg, fill it with 1L of starsan mixture and shake it all about. I turn it upside down and push in the gas post to let a bit trickle out. I then put it the right way up and use co2 to push the starsan out of the keg through the beer post and into a bucket. Once this is done I have a fully sanitised keg that has starsan foam in it and co2.

Then when I'm racking from fermenter to keg I use co2 to push a bit of the foam from the keg into the tap of the fermenter to give it a bit of a clean / sanitisation and even allow a bit of pressure so that the beer can travel down a completely oxygen free line that is sanitised.

Then this almost closed system allows the beer to transfer without fear of splashing causing oxidisation. As the beer level goes up in the keg it pushes the foam up too and the foam ends up coming out the relief valve and doing a bit more sanitation to the headspace of the keg and the pressure relief valve etc.

The way I used to do it, I found it pretty hard to get the tube to coil the right way so it sat at the bottom of the keg and didn't cause too much splashing. Sometimes it wanted to curl at the end and face slightly upways, causing splashing. Other times it didn't sit right at the bottom of the keg. Once cold beer hit it, it stiffened right up. I didn't like having to fill it slowly at first until the beer was past the tube level and then open fully etc.

I find the new method completely fool proof and less stressful, and find the racking tube easier to clean properly.

 

[MarkBastard]

I'm with HB79 and Screwy, the KISS method is faster and less work.

The KISS method is faster and less work. The KISS method is the one where you do as I have mentioned.

 

[MarkBastard]

craftbrewer is back online

http://craftbrewer.com.au/shop/details.asp?PID=1118

Best $7 you'll ever spend.

 

[raven19]

This is the method I have been using of late as per Here.

I now gravity filter inline then into keg.

 

[the_yobbo]

craftbrewer is back online

http://craftbrewer.com.au/shop/details.asp?PID=1118

Best $7 you'll ever spend.

Thanks for linky. Will check out my LHBS for stock and price. Surely for something that probably costs $4 to make, they should be able to supply me cheaper than $15 ($7+$8 delivery). However, I've got the feeling deep in my stomach that says I'll be ordering it from Ross soon.

 

[raven19]

Thanks for linky. Will check out my LHBS for stock and price. Surely for something that probably costs $4 to make, they should be able to supply me cheaper than $15 ($7+$8 delivery). However, I've got the feeling deep in my stomach that says I'll be ordering it from Ross soon.

I bought my disconnect component from Legris. No affiliation, suppliers around Oz as per Linky.

Then just used a bit of tubing from my length of racking tubing. I added a hose clamp - did not want to lose beer in the event of the tube slipping off.

 

[MarkBastard]

Thanks for linky. Will check out my LHBS for stock and price. Surely for something that probably costs $4 to make, they should be able to supply me cheaper than $15 ($7+$8 delivery). However, I've got the feeling deep in my stomach that says I'll be ordering it from Ross soon.

He could probably chuck this in a 55c envelope if you asked nicely.

Or just buy other stuff as well to make it worthwhile. It's a great shop.

 

[the_yobbo]

craftbrewer is back online

http://craftbrewer.com.au/shop/details.asp?PID=1118

Best $7 you'll ever spend.

Ok, so I managed to find the fitting in my local brew store. I tried it on Thursday and discovered that it leaks a bit between the JG fitting and the hose. Anyone else have this trouble? Any suggestions on safely sealing it?
Will lube seal it well enough? Or is plumber's threading tape appropriate/safe?

 

[raven19]

A hose clamp works for me a treat. No leaks. :icon_cheers:

 

[MCT]

Yep I have 2 and they both leak.

 

[the_yobbo]

A hose clamp works for me a treat. No leaks. :icon_cheers:

Heh, I don't know why I didn't think of that myself. Cheers

 

[MarkBastard]

Mine doesn't leak. Not sure what the difference would be. Does the thread sort of 'cut in' to the tube you're using? I think it does on mine.

 

[Sammus]

just open the tap over the keg and let it fall in. there's enough co2 in the beer to keep a blanket there.