Hop Hog Extract Recipe

[carniebrew]

If you need a bit of help with the hop schedule: https://au.news.yahoo.com/thewest/lifestyle/a/22340786/hop-on-to-ferals-hog/

"The recipe's no secret. The current Hop Hog has cascade, centennial and amarillo hops from America's 2013 harvest,"
The secret was "not so much what's in the beer as how we apply it"

 

[stewy]

OG was 1.062, tad higher than I expected - could the fact that a bunch of hop solids were in the test sample and settled at the bottom of the hydro jar have affected this?

Almost certainly the reason. With extract brewing, trust the software in regards to OG. Software is very accurate, much more accurate than we are at having a perfectly mixed wort prior to taking a hydro reading

 

[MPP]

Almost certainly the reason. With extract brewing, trust the software in regards to OG. Software is very accurate, much more accurate than we are at having a perfectly mixed wort prior to taking a hydro reading

Cheers for this, thought I'd give the thread a bump with a follow up question. Why is it then that different recipe calculators give different OG's? I'm getting a variation of 1054-1058 with different software - but shouldn't OG always be the same if a given recipe is followed exactly? I'm a bit of a pedant with knowing the ABV and other specifics of a beer.

More on topic, FG ended up at 1015-1016 (about right?) and I had one after 8 days in the bottle yesterday (couldn't resist). Very, very decent considering it should improve a fair bit too.

 

[danestead]

Are both sets of software programmed with the same 'extract potential' or 'ppg'? If so, they should be coming up with the same OG given identical batch sizes/losses etc.

 

[doctr-dan]

Not too difficult... but I did a few brews to work my way up to this one. This is my 7th brew. I would try a new or more advanced technique with each brew. My first few were shockers but I learned a whole lot from them.


INGREDIENTS
1.5kg Coopers Light Malt tin
1.5kg Coopers Wheat Malt tin
700g Light Dry Malt
150g Crystal grains steeped
60g Centennial
60g Citra
30g Galaxy
US-05
METHOD
1. Steep cracked Medium Crystal Grain for 30mins in 1.5L of 70C water
2. Add grain liquid to a bigger pot, top it up to 6L and mixed in 700g Light DME. Bring to the boil and add the following hop additions.
10g galaxy @ 60 mins

20g centennial @ 10 mins
20g citra @ 10 mins
10g galaxy @ 10 mins

20g centennial @ 5 mins
20g citra @ 5 mins
10g galaxy @ 5 mins
3. Let wort cool for 20mins. Add to fermenter. Add liquid light malt and liquid wheat malt plus cool water to bring up to 21L and roughly 20C- 22C
4. Give it a good stir for a minute then sprinkle the yeast on top.
5. Ferment at 18c for 7 days/
6. Dry hop on Day 8 with
20g centennial @ dryhop
20g citra @ dryhop
7. Drop it down to 3C on about day12
8. Bulk prime with 135g dextrose on the day 14 and bottle
Actual OG was 1.050 and FG was 1.011
ABV about 5.7%


It's only been in the bottle one week so it'll no doubt improve. It is really easy to drink though. If you make it, please report back here with any changes to the recipe you make and any ideas on improving it further.

Just doing this brew as I type waiting for the steeped grain liquid and the LDM to come to the boil.
I was wondering why you don't add any of the extract to the boil?

 

[doctr-dan]

Also do you leave the lid on or off when boiling

 

[shacked]

Leave the lid off mate.

The boil should be at a gravity of about 1.040 for optimal isomerization (getting the AA's out of the hops). 1.040 is roughly 100g of dry malt extract to 1L of water.

 

[doctr-dan]

I think I stuffed a few things up with this brew.

Is it a problem if the 60min boil is a all out BOIL for some reason I thought it needed to be a gentle boil?

I then cooled the wort down in the sink with some cold water and ice blocks for a while, poured it through a strainer into the fermenter and added the cans of light malt and wheat malt. I didn't warm the cans first so pouring was a slow process so I added so boiling water to the cans and sloshed them around to get all the malt out, topped it up to 21litres and the wort is sitting at 26d so I haven't added the yeast yet I've put the fermenter in the fridge to cool it down some more before adding the yeast. US05

For some reason I have a feeling that I have done a few stupid things wrong.

My OG is 1060

 

[indica86]

You'll be fine. I'd pitch the yeast though.

 

[WWDWD]

I wouldn't pitch the yeast until it's like 20 or 22C.

It's cool to let it cool down before pitching the yeast. You've got time. Just make sure it's covered and once it's at a decent temp give it a real good stir with a sanitised spoon. Get lots of air and bubbles happening. Pitch your yeast. Cover. Back in the fridge.

I reckon it'll turn out nice!!

 

[doctr-dan]

Thanks for the replies, both so different though........

Also any clarification on the boil side of things is it supposed to be a gentle boil or a full blown boil? Does it make a difference?

And why do some add light malt or wheat malt to the boil where as in Wilsons recipe he doesn't just the grain water and tap water?

Is $77 a lot to pay for the ingredients for this brew ? I do have 40g of centennial and 40g of citra left over for another a brew but other than that is it a expensive brew?

 

[WWDWD]

My burner is on high throughout the whole boil... so I would say that's a solid boil. Maybe I turn it back a touch but it's still bubbling and rolling at a goodly pace.

I just add the DME to the boil. I've read you need "roughly" 100g of malt extract per litre of your boil to get the most out of your hops. I usually do a 6l boil with roughly 500g of DME (depending on the recipe). I use dry malt in the boil as opposed to the liquid cos it's easier to measure out the desired amount of it.

Buy in bulk and save. 100g bags of hops. Or 500g if you use the same hops a lot. 1kg of this 1kg of that. etc. The bigger the buy the cheaper it is.

PRICE BREAKDOWN
------------------------
1.5kg Coopers Light Malt $13
1.5kg Coopers Wheat Malt $13
500g DME about $6 (about $12 a kg)
200g Crystal Grain $1.60 (about $8 a kg?)
60g Cent $6 ($10 per 100g)
60g Citra $6 ($10 per 100g)
30g Galaxy $3 ($10 per 100g)
US-05 yeast $6
------------------------
$54.60

...and you're getting a lot of GREAT beer for LESS than $20 a carton.

 

[doctr-dan]

I know I paid

100g citra $12
100g cent $12

Not sure on the breakdown of the rest which was the 2 coopers tins, 1kg of DME , 150g of crystal grain and US05 yeast.

In the end I paid $77
I'm trying to support my LHBS owner operator which is 5mins away rather than my local country brewer which is 15mins away.

It's a fair difference in price though

 

[indica86]

or $20 if you go all grain.
And it is perfectly acceptable to pitch @ 26° and then cool it down. The yeast will multiply and be ready to take on the wort. In my mind that is safer than waiting.

 

[stewy]

Cheers for this, thought I'd give the thread a bump with a follow up question. Why is it then that different recipe calculators give different OG's? I'm getting a variation of 1054-1058 with different software - but shouldn't OG always be the same if a given recipe is followed exactly? I'm a bit of a pedant with knowing the ABV and other specifics of a beer.

More on topic, FG ended up at 1015-1016 (about right?) and I had one after 8 days in the bottle yesterday (couldn't resist). Very, very decent considering it should improve a fair bit too.

With the different brewing software, are all the settings identical, particularly the boil time/volume? If the boil volumes are set up differently this could be the reason for discrepancy.....if not then I'm not sure the reason

 

[captain_cremen]

just do it dude. i made this, followed
recipe and it turned out
great


-Matt

 

[Dan Pratt]

And it is perfectly acceptable to pitch @ 26° and then cool it down. The yeast will multiply and be ready to take on the wort. In my mind that is safer than waiting.

Advising to pitch warm.......yes it works but when you have temperature control and your cleaning & sanitation are right then a 4-8hr window of cooling phase can be achieved without any problems. The correct yeast management techniques is to pitch cool and warm the beer to the target fermentation temp, the yeast grow much stronger and the final beer is cleaner.

 

[doctr-dan]

This has been down for 7 days now and the SG is at 1018 (started at 1060)
It's has a very strong passion fruit aroma to it.
I can't really comment on taste because I just had two cups of coffee

Does this sound like its on the right track?

 

[boybrewer]

This has been down for 7 days now and the SG is at 1018 (started at 1060)
It's has a very strong passion fruit aroma to it.
I can't really comment on taste because I just had two cups of coffee

Does this sound like its on the right track?

Yes . Let it sit for a few more days . 1.018 seems to be finished especially with a higher starting gravity . Just give it time this will help the yeast finish cleaning up after itself .

 

[Dan Pratt]

This has been down for 7 days now and the SG is at 1018 (started at 1060)
It's has a very strong passion fruit aroma to it.
I can't really comment on taste because I just had two cups of coffee

Does this sound like its on the right track?

Go ahead and add the dry hops, the hops will rouse the yeast cake and finish ferment. Also raise your temp to 21c if your controlling temp.