Hole Drilling 101 Required Please

[Bribie G]

My Birko has died and It's going to cost squillions to get it fixed so I'll just fit a new heater. I can't get any over the side elements here in Brisbane (Auslec etc don't stock them any more) and buying one from interstate is looking like $120 plus postage, so a couple of Ross's stick heaters will be cheaper and also very effective - I'll run 2 off 2 different circuits.

Now how do you drill a thin pot, 32mm hole?

I'm a Shop B total retard - is it a simple case of buying a metal hole saw of that size, drill a guide hole first then follow on with the hole saw?
I assume for metal you'd need a special steel/diamond saw or something?

 

[manticle]

Have a look at conical step bits.

eg.

Otherwise bi-metal holesaws but the conical is what I've used to fit tap to my keggle and tap and sight guage to my 4mm aluminium HLT

 

[pokolbinguy]

You can get a stepped drill piece that can be used to drill metal. I used it on my brew gear, even my "keggle".

They look like this:

Linky

I got mine from the big green shed from memory and it was not very expensive.

P.S. Looks like Manticle beat me to it.

 

[bignath]

My Birko has died and It's going to cost squillions to get it fixed so I'll just fit a new heater. I can't get any over the side elements here in Brisbane (Auslec etc don't stock them any more) and buying one from interstate is looking like $120 plus postage, so a couple of Ross's stick heaters will be cheaper and also very effective - I'll run 2 off 2 different circuits.

Now how do you drill a thin pot, 32mm hole?

I'm a Shop B total retard - is it a simple case of buying a metal hole saw of that size, drill a guide hole first then follow on with the hole saw?
I assume for metal you'd need a special steel/diamond saw or something?

Bribie, don't use a hole saw mate, chances are you'll tear and warp the metal whilst trying to make it into a hole. Also, unless you spend a lot of dollars on a stainless hole saw bit, you'll end up getting no where. All it will do is scratch, burn and tear the metal...

Grab a step drill bit like manticle has indicated. Best tool for the job. Probably will need to support it a little from the inside though so you don't bend the urn with the weight of drilling.....

Go slow, use heaps of lube :blink:

 

[humulus]

Like Manticle said or a good quality bi-metal hole saw(not the "green shed"home brand one) get a suttons,use a small pin punch,or nail to give the pilot drill on the hole saw a guide to work too,use low speed and cutting lube!
:icon_cheers:

 

[pimpsqueak]

Or, for thin metal like on your urn, see if you can track down one of these... SHEET METAL PUNCH
I used one to punch a hole in my SS kitchen sink top to install the mixer.

I have also used step drills/cone cutters and if I couldn't source a punch I'd give one a go.

 

[Bribie G]

Thanks for the advice - I'll avoid the big Green shed and check out the Small Blue and Orange Shed on the island Is cutting lube like engine oil or do you have to buy it specially?

 

[manticle]

Any hardware should have it. You can do it without, especially for thin metal but it helps and it will stop the bit getting worn out from overheating.

 

[jbumpstead]

Thanks for the advice - I'll avoid the big Green shed and check out the Small Blue and Orange Shed on the island Is cutting lube like engine oil or do you have to buy it specially?

Its a special lube you'll find in the drill bit/hole saw section at the hardware store. Comes with in a small squeezy bottle with nozzle.
Cheers,
Justin.

 

[Jarthy]

I have seen step drill bits sold in a pack of 3, wish I'd seen them when I bought my big one. I think they come in rather handy.

Really any oil based lubricant should do the job, you aren't going to be drilling for a long period of time.

 

[cdbrown]

I used a bi-metal hole saw for cutting all the holes in the kegs and thin metal big w pot. The hole saws come with a pilot hole guide on them. I used wd-40 spray while cutting to help. Main point is not to let it get too hot other wise the s/s will melt and jam up the saw teeth.

 

[Malted]

Bribie, don't use a hole saw mate, chances are you'll tear and warp the metal whilst trying to make it into a hole. Also, unless you spend a lot of dollars on a stainless hole saw bit, you'll end up getting no where. All it will do is scratch, burn and tear the metal...

Grab a step drill bit like manticle has indicated. Best tool for the job. Probably will need to support it a little from the inside though so you don't bend the urn with the weight of drilling.....

Go slow, use heaps of lube :blink:

Sounds like you have had some bad experiences with cheap holesaws. I have never had a holesaw tear up and warp the metal I was cutting into. They can leave some wicked burs on the exit side if you don't swap sides at half time. Warping sounds like you let it get too hot (because the teeth were blunt and unlubed?). I am interested in hearing of the circumstances when you have experienced tearing and warping. (Seriously).

You don't need to buy a carbide tipped holesaw or other expensive one unless you plan on cutting lots of holes, then it is certainly better economics. Even a shitty bimetal holesaw should be good for at least two holes in a thin urn, if spun slowly with cutting fluid/lube. I'd still reccommend a reasonable quality holesaw.


Dissadvantage for old farts with using a stepped drill is you have to stop all the time to look at how big the hole is. Keep pushing and you could end up with the hole too big. Not a good tool for old eyesight...

Edit: cutting fluid/compound/lubricant can be in all sorts of containers, Tins, plastic bottles, plastic toothpaste-like tubes etc etc. Some ARE like oil as they are water soluble oil and need to be diluted, some you use as is, some are like a paste, some look like molybdenum grease. Some folks, as suggested, use a bit of WD40 and some even use a bit of kero.

 

[Feldon]

Or, for thin metal like on your urn, see if you can track down one of these... SHEET METAL PUNCH
I used one to punch a hole in my SS kitchen sink top to install the mixer.

I have also used step drills/cone cutters and if I couldn't source a punch I'd give one a go.

+1
Really easy to use. Low speed (you turn it by hand with an allen key) so very safe, and makes a perfect burr-free hole. Top little unit.

 

[argon]

Regardless of which cutting implement you use, i think your biggest issue will be warping the wall of the urn. They're pretty thin in comparison to a pot or keggle. You'll need to support the back side of what you're drilling into. Perhaps with a bit of timber on the inside face and drill into it. Last thing you want to do is push on the wall of the urn and have it deflect on you, leaving a big ding in the urn.

 

[Malted]

+1
Really easy to use. Low speed (you turn it by hand with an allen key) so very safe, and makes a perfect burr-free hole. Top little unit.

So that thingy is good to punch up 1.6 or 1.5 mm thick sheet metal. You will still need to drill a hole first for the thingies thingy to go through before you tighten the thingy . But the good news is that I reckon that thingy would not be any dearer than a reasoanble hole saw and arbor.

 

[megs80]

If your drilling SS dont go at it flat stick with the drill. You'll craete too much heat and possible aneal your drill bit. and use lots of lube when drilling. Yep, pun intended.

Cheers,

 

[Nick JD]

12 gauge shotgun. From 10 inches back.

 

[vic45]

A bi-metal holesaw will do this easily and quickly. Just take your time and support the inside as argon said.

I use holesaws for notching 5mm chrome molly and 3mm erw tubing and each one will do dozens of cuts if used correctly.

 

[Malted]

You'll need to support the back side

I am not sure what you are talking about. Are any of the following applicable?











Caught in the act in the Pumicestone passage (or is that back passage?).

 

[pk.sax]

cone bit and WD40 for lube. Easiest way to do it. And some way to hold the urn in place without moving would be a good idea since I reckon it won't be as heavy as a keg...