High Watt Density element for brew kettle

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bionut

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Hi,

I decided to shift from gas to electrig brewing. I think that it will be cheaper, and if it not cheaper is it worth the cost to ne able to brew inside, and not worrying about having gas in the tank and what not.

The only problem is that is really hard to get a ULWD element, and everyone seems to recommend these over regular high watt elements, because of the posibility of scorching the wort. Did any of you tried them and had good results?
 
I'd recommend getting yourself a 40L cheapy stainless electric urn off ebay that has a concealed element. Quite cheap and works a treat.
 
Camco make ULWD elements for a reasonable price.

I have 2 x 5500W in my kettle.
 
sponge said:
Camco make ULWD elements for a reasonable price.

I have 2 x 5500W in my kettle.
What's you boil size?
 
120L.

Pretty sure they make other wattage elements as well as the 5.5kWs would be overkill for single batches.
 
sponge said:
120L.

Pretty sure they make other wattage elements as well as the 5.5kWs would be overkill for single batches.
Mate, 11kw for 120L is massive overkill! We only use 20kw for our 500L systems and it takes around 30 mins to reach a boil and then the power is cut to half to maintain the boil.

Wes
 
wessmith said:
Mate, 11kw for 120L is massive overkill! We only use 20kw for our 500L systems and it takes around 30 mins to reach a boil and then the power is cut to half to maintain the boil.

Wes
I'm all too aware, Wes. I can happily get away with one, and am able to have both or one running, depending upon batch size and patience levels.
 
I'm running a 112L batch (136L pre boil) on 6kw, wish I had some extra kw to speed things along sometimes.
 
I know the Camco elements, but the shipping cost from USA to Romania is bigger than the price of the elements. This apply to urns also. They may the cheap, but not if you shipp them oversees. Also, i already have my keggle that i want to convert, so i don't want to buy adiacent equipment.
Regular high watt density elements are easy to get everywhere. It seems to me that those urns have in fact some small (so high density) elements, and nobody seems to complain about them scorching the wort. Is the fact the element is concealed changing anything? It looks that they sell urns with exposed element, do any of you use them?
 
bionut said:
I know the Camco elements, but the shipping cost from USA to Romania is bigger than the price of the elements. This apply to urns also. They may the cheap, but not if you shipp them oversees. Also, i already have my keggle that i want to convert, so i don't want to buy adiacent equipment.
Regular high watt density elements are easy to get everywhere. It seems to me that those urns have in fact some small (so high density) elements, and nobody seems to complain about them scorching the wort. Is the fact the element is concealed changing anything? It looks that they sell urns with exposed element, do any of you use them?
Hang on - you want LOW WATTAGE DENSITY elements, not high wattage density. When I saw the title of the thread I assumed it was just a slip up.

Wes
 
It's not at all hard to get ULWD elements, most brewing purposed elements are LWD or ULWD
All of the 5 Star Distilling elements are ULWD, Keg King's is LWD, most screw in ones on ebay with multiple trombones/loops are ULWD
Anything with a surface density of around 50W/IN2 or there abouts will be suitable
Just go for something long, that has multiple loops in the one unit and is within your amperage source
I also would recommend getting a socket welded to your vessel if you're using an element with multiple loops, makes much easier for removing and cleaning
 
You could wire multiple high-density elements in series perhaps?
 
I think the biggest problem here is the OP is in Romania. I bought my ULWD elements from Amazon for cheap including postage from the US, not sure if they'll post to Romania too.
 
The electric brewery site has the new 5500watt lwd with all stainless parts (no more rusty streaks). I run mine on a 20 amp circuit controled with a VA SSR, for a 30lt boil,works great.
Buy the way you want low watt density. Same heat spread over a larger element so as not to scorch the wort.
 
The shipping cost from Amazon or thelectricbrewery is equat to the element price + some importing taxes.

sp0rk said:
This one should get you out of trouble
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AC-220V-2KW-Electric-Heating-Water-Boiler-Heater-Element-Silver-Tone-/390850204594?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item5b007cd3b2
A VERY quick estimate without knowing the actual element length (I guessed around 70cm total heated length, it's probably actually longer, so the density will be lower) puts it around 80W/IN2
This should work fine
Thanks for the link, i found in the same store a 3000W element, http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AC-220V-3KW-Electric-Heating-Water-Boiler-Heater-Element-Silver-Tone-/331600484872?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item4d34edda08 , from my calculations in seems that it has 14W/cm2. Is this small enough? What is the accepted value for LWD and ULWD?
 
bionut said:
The shipping cost from Amazon or thelectricbrewery is equat to the element price + some importing taxes.

Thanks for the link, i found in the same store a 3000W element, http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AC-220V-3KW-Electric-Heating-Water-Boiler-Heater-Element-Silver-Tone-/331600484872?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item4d34edda08 , from my calculations in seems that it has 14W/cm2. Is this small enough? What is the accepted value for LWD and ULWD?
below 50W/in2 is the accepted value for ULWD
I'm not sure what the outlet amperage there is, we have 10A 220-240V outlets so we can only run 2400W elements
I would find out what your outlet amperage is and buy one to suit
 
We have also 220V. I plan to make a new circuit with 30A to use it for brewing. For 4000-4500A i will need a 20 A outlet.
Do you know what is the maximun LWD accepted value?
 

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