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My question with these sort of mods is usually "why?".I bent up a copper pipe and drilled holes through it to use for recirculation during the mash. It sinks slightly into the grain bed but not much. It can easily be moved to the side to stir, but doesn't drill right down to the bottom like when I just use the hose that came with it. Seemed to work well.
I did a 10 litre batch in the Robobrew but it was a barley wine so it was a full malt pipe and then I parti gyled so no regular half batch evidence for you.Reading this thread with keen interest. I've just taken the plunge and ordered a 40L Guten, and subsequently read all 107 pages!
I'm expecting a drop in efficiency (currently 85% with BIAB), but hoping the convenience and temp control will be worth it.
Anyone doing small (8.5–9.5 L) batches? I'm weighing up whether to do a small sparge (maybe 2 L) vs. no sparge at all.
Check your temp probe connection. It's really fiddly and if it's not connected properly it will read weird.My Guten 70 is now integrated with Brewfather and SmartPID!
I transferred a recipe and was able to control the pump and heating elements from BF. Absolutely stoked.
Something weird going on with the reported temperature (it's not that cold in Melbourne tonight), might be PID calibration or something like that.
A few photos...
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Have to say that looks awesome, I've been keeping an eye on the PID for this for a while. Would love to hear a few more brew updates.My Guten 70 is now integrated with Brewfather and SmartPID!
The pump is hooked up to one of the built-in relays in the SmartPID, so it's either on or off. There is a spare DC out that is designed to run say a fridge, so technically you could hook it up to a relay to drive a pump. I'm not sure how you would throttle it though, as it won't be governed by a temp sensor.Have to say that looks awesome, I've been keeping an eye on the PID for this for a while. Would love to hear a few more brew updates.
Any potential to control the pump flow rate via an electronic valve? Then I wouldn't need to keep adjusting the flow rate during the mash.
Although I find that the pump seems to be running flat out anyway from about middle mash.
I have a series of steps on mine (70 strike, 67 mash, 76 MO) with 1 minute pauses in between with power varied. Never press button other than to go to boil from what I remember. Think it's for safety.
I would program it like this if I were you:
1. 5c @ 100w (8 hours or what ever you need)
2. Strike @ 2500w (1 minute)
3. Mash @ 1000w (60 or what ever)
4. Mash Out @ 2500w (1 minute)
5. Mash Out @ 1000w (10 m)
6. 99.5 @ 2500w (1 minute)
7. Boil @ 2000w (60 or what ever)
Roughly similar although I set to 3000 for 1 minute just below mash temp and then dough in during that minute and the heat going in seems to be about right for the mash temp. Mash with about 600 watts, then stepup to next temp ( if a step mash at about 2500) with 1 minute just below target temp and then back to 600w ( or mash out if that's the next temp). Then mash out and full power to raise to 100, less power during boil as lid on using condenser.Anyone still doing delayed starts on these? See @kadmium's post below.
I'm just doing a water-only run on mine to get the temps, boil-off, etc. dialled in. My basic auto program is this:
However, after step 1, it just beeps continuously. I had to press start/stop to get it to move on to step 2.
- Heat strike 70°C @ 2400 W for 1 min
- Mash at 67°C @ 300 W for 60 min [small batches]
- Mash out at 76°C @ 2400 W for 1 min
- Bring to boil at 99.9°C @ 2400 W for 1 min
- Boil @ 100°C @ 1800 W for 60 min
- Hop additions at 30, 15, 10, 5
This definitely seems like the behaviour you'd want for doughing in, so that you can tell it you're done and want it to countdown for the mash, but does this make delayed starts impossible?
Perhaps the firmware has changed on the latest model?
Edit: hmm, it goes from step 2 to step 3 automatically. I can also confirm it pauses before the boil (which is expected behaviour).