Guide To Keg Forced Carbonation.

Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum

Help Support Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
No, use the spreadsheet for temp and pressure or use sugar to carb
 
Has anyone used this method for a 9L keg with success? I have tried it a few times and while I have never had any major issues with a standard corny I don't seem to get a good result with a 9L. Have tried reducing time etc but all without success.
 
If you are having trouble with overcarbing, try just setting your regulator to dispensing pressure(10-14psi) and shaking the bejesus out of it. You will never over carb your beer that way. The more head space in the keg, the easier with this method as it helps the co2 dissolve easier.
 
I'm not sure if I overcarbed my beer or not, but I force carbed my english mild around 2 hours ago and I'm struggling to get the beer QD locked in without beer leaking out.. Anyone have any solutions, it's kinda sad to see beer leak everywhere everytime I try to connect the tap.
 
Yeah it is know, just needed a bit of lubing and it's good. Shanks to beer line still leaking but I'll just get a new less-frigidity connection and it will hopefully be good.

Have another keg to in a day or two so hopefully it'll sort itself
 
Hi all, just a quick one - poured from my first keg yesty, stoked!

Have another beer ready to keg - Will 15 ltrs going into a 20 ltr keg be treated any different or same same pressure?

tIA
 
droid said:
Hi all, just a quick one - poured from my first keg yesty, stoked!
I poured my first on Tuesday night, it's like magic, I was so exited I could hardly sleep. I really want to get stuck into it now...
 
droid said:
Hi all, just a quick one - poured from my first keg yesty, stoked!

Have another beer ready to keg - Will 15 ltrs going into a 20 ltr keg be treated any different or same same pressure?

tIA
Opposite to what some have said, yes it definitely makes a difference.

It takes a long time to shake about and carb up a keg which is filled to the brim. If it is filled a few cm below the brim, it will accept the co2 much easier because there is more room for it to be shaken around. Be careful to not over carb your beer! If you are putting considerably less beer in that a full keg, like you are, I find you can set your regulator to serving pressure and shake the hell out of it. You will never over carb your beer this way. You don't need the 45psi/300kpa if it isn't full. You will end up over carbing your beer if you arent very careful.
 
Hi all, just seeing if anyone can give me some answers. I have kegged and c02 carbed my last 3 beers, and have just left my keg connected to serving pressure at 13-14 psi for about 7 days. The first 2 have been perfect, but the 3rd is still pretty flat. I cranked it to 30 odd psi, rolled on the ground for a few minutes, then released back to serving pressure and left for another few days but still flat. Wondering if anyone has answers or tips for a still newby to c02 carbonating.
 
Have you checked the keg for leaks? Is it a similar style beer to the successfully carbed batches?
 
danestead said:
Have you checked the keg for leaks? Is it a similar style beer to the successfully carbed batches?
Yea it is the same beer and definitely no leaks.
 
Check the poppet spring on the gas in post or quick connect . i had one where it had a to strong a spring in it and would not open to allow the correct pressure through it was like a second regulator in the line.
 
Since you did a bit of a forced carb ("I cranked it to 30 odd psi, rolled on the ground for a few minutes") I'd say gas is not getting in, when you forced carbed did you here gas bubbling in the keg for those minutes? If so, sounds like a leak so recheck.
Cheers
 
Back
Top