Gro-warm Temp Controller
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Gout
Bentleigh Brau Haus
dam straight sos .... one day a legend the next...Wanted enjoy while it lasts 
on that note a beer... one that was brewed and cc in my freezer with... Fuji Koki power! there great stuff
still mad she stung me even if it was only the cost of a beer or 2 extra
on that note a beer... one that was brewed and cc in my freezer with... Fuji Koki power! there great stuff still mad she stung me
even if it was only the cost of a beer or 2 extra
hey sosman,
they charged me $43 plus GST, which in my books is still a bargain. very easy to install guys, just use the 2 AC wires (live/neautral) to connect to NC/CO. BEWARE we are talking 240 Volts and it can be quite the heart starter (or stopper). Never having seen a normal thermostat before i was a little confused with the 2 white wires on the fridge thermo. I soon realised what i didn't need and just went for the power. Make sure your connection leads are nowhere near the metallic casing which is quite poorly designed as it is right next to the power terminals. Any stray wires on your terminals could touch the casing and short. So make sure you do a neat job and run wires to the inner side of the terminal. On my fridge, the thermostat was located just inside the door where the light is mounted (westinghouse), so it was very easy to get to. i just unscrewed the cover, and there was the thermostat with earth, live, neautral, and 2xwhite/black wires for the thermostat.
they charged me $43 plus GST, which in my books is still a bargain. very easy to install guys, just use the 2 AC wires (live/neautral) to connect to NC/CO. BEWARE we are talking 240 Volts and it can be quite the heart starter (or stopper). Never having seen a normal thermostat before i was a little confused with the 2 white wires on the fridge thermo. I soon realised what i didn't need and just went for the power. Make sure your connection leads are nowhere near the metallic casing which is quite poorly designed as it is right next to the power terminals. Any stray wires on your terminals could touch the casing and short. So make sure you do a neat job and run wires to the inner side of the terminal. On my fridge, the thermostat was located just inside the door where the light is mounted (westinghouse), so it was very easy to get to. i just unscrewed the cover, and there was the thermostat with earth, live, neautral, and 2xwhite/black wires for the thermostat.
Gout
Bentleigh Brau Haus
sos, a indicator "neon" comes on mine with the comp. is off (i wired it in this way as the factory did)
so its compressor on, or neon on. I always know there is power to the unit, it is doing a neat trick for me on the freezer
so its compressor on, or neon on. I always know there is power to the unit, it is doing a neat trick for me on the freezer
here is a picture of the fuji koki installation.
the light does come in even when the compressor is off. You will see in the image that i have 2 brown live wires on the common terminal. This is the same configuration as my original thermostat which maintains power to the light even when compressor is off. The normally closed terminal then only has the neutral cable from the compressor (in this case is white). The light has it's own independant neutral (blue wire), and as such always has power.
let me know if you want an image of my original thermostat configuration.
cheers
the light does come in even when the compressor is off. You will see in the image that i have 2 brown live wires on the common terminal. This is the same configuration as my original thermostat which maintains power to the light even when compressor is off. The normally closed terminal then only has the neutral cable from the compressor (in this case is white). The light has it's own independant neutral (blue wire), and as such always has power.
let me know if you want an image of my original thermostat configuration.
cheers
Bigfella - use the "heating" contact to switch something on as the temperature clicks up - they are changover contacts AFAIK so running cooling and heating together is not the best.
There are three contacts, cooling, common and heating. As long as your active comes to the common, the heating contact will be energised when the temp drops below the set temperature.
There are three contacts, cooling, common and heating. As long as your active comes to the common, the heating contact will be energised when the temp drops below the set temperature.
There is no hysteresis between hot and cold circuits. That means one or the other (heater or cooler) must be on, most heating/cooling circuits have a "dead zone" where neither the heater or the cooler is on.
No I have tried it in anger, but I did buzz it with a multimeter.
No I have tried it in anger, but I did buzz it with a multimeter.
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