Get into O2 guys, if you're serious about nicer beer

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Futur said:
That might be true, but what temperature was this done at and via what method? If it was shaking and at room temperature that wouldn't surprise me.

The science says otherwise, 8-10ppm should be achievable without using pure O2. Braukaiser has validated this using a paint mixer on a drill. Once I get my meter in the next few weeks I'll take some measurements for a lager being oxgenated using this same method @ 5-6C.
Fair enough, what I've read probably was at roughly room temp as I suspect they probably did their experiments at ale pitching temps. However the method has nothing to do with it, it's the fact that it's atmospheric air and that it's only ~21 % O2 that is the limiting factor (other than temperature as you rightly pointed out).

I guess because I used to aerate at ale pitching temps that I assumed most people did it at that temp, especially for ales. Obviously lagers are a different kettle of fish. It's generally accepted that slightly higher DO levels are prefered for cold pitched lagers anyway so I'd be interested to see the results and find out if the lower temperature is enough to compensate.

One more thing that should be noted is that as the SG increases, the solubility of gas decreases. So while aeration clearly works in a lot of situations it might not be as good for something like a high gravity lager (other than the low pitching temp every other factor is against us here). I guess another reason I like using O2 is because I know it will be able to handle any situation I throw at it.
 
Killer Brew said:
Is the process to pitch and then oxygenate or oxygenate then pitch? Or does it not matter?
It doesn't really matter as long as you're doing both pretty close in time - I wouldn't oxygenate hours prior to pitching. I like to pitch and then oxygenate because it mixes the yeast nice and evenly through the wort.
 
Adr_0 said:
Regarding dry yeasts (at least Fermentis/Saf):http://www.fermentis.com/brewing/industrial-brewing/faq/
Seems like the bubbling mechanism helps more than the supply of O2.
Not a very clear answer really

"Does the wort need Oxygenation / aeration?
As the yeast is grown aerobically, the yeast is less sensitive on first pitch. Aeration is recommended to ensure full mixing of the wort and yeast."
 
On the 5/11/16 i put down a ginger beer with OG 1042, i pumped air through it with the hose stuck in the end of my mash paddle as my carb stone filled with my sterilisation solution, tonight its 1022 so it has made no difference. On the 7/11/16 i put down an Australian Pale Ale with OG 1060 and used the carb stone on the end of the hose for about 20min then pitched the yeast. Today it is 1003, this proves that you don't need to spend big bucks on a full on o2 setup an aquarium bubbler and carb stone can achieve great results.
 
nic0 said:
On the 5/11/16 i put down a ginger beer with OG 1042, i pumped air through it with the hose stuck in the end of my mash paddle as my carb stone filled with my sterilisation solution, tonight its 1022 so it has made no difference. On the 7/11/16 i put down an Australian Pale Ale with OG 1060 and used the carb stone on the end of the hose for about 20min then pitched the yeast. Today it is 1003, this proves that you don't need to spend big bucks on a full on o2 setup an aquarium bubbler and carb stone can achieve great results.
You can achieve great results with air but not the same result as using pressurized O2.
You simply cannot dissolve as high a concentration of oxygen using air & it's scientifically proven.
It's the pinnacle of wort aeration & you won't see any commercial breweries using an air pump to dissolve O2.
Not knocking your process or affordability at all, just sticking with the facts.
 
My sincere apologies if this was asked before I have read most of the pages but may have missed it.

What regulators are most people using with their D Size bottles. I just picked up a bottle today and thought I had a reg at home, but no joy.

Thanks.
 
5150 said:
My sincere apologies if this was asked before I have read most of the pages but may have missed it.

What regulators are most people using with their D Size bottles. I just picked up a bottle today and thought I had a reg at home, but no joy.

Thanks.
Cigweld Cutskill from Bunnings.

I think Batz is getting rid of a few regs if you want to send him a message. I'm not sure what brands he's got though.
 
nic0 said:
On the 5/11/16 i put down a ginger beer with OG 1042, i pumped air through it with the hose stuck in the end of my mash paddle as my carb stone filled with my sterilisation solution, tonight its 1022 so it has made no difference. On the 7/11/16 i put down an Australian Pale Ale with OG 1060 and used the carb stone on the end of the hose for about 20min then pitched the yeast. Today it is 1003, this proves that you don't need to spend big bucks on a full on o2 setup an aquarium bubbler and carb stone can achieve great results.
not sure how 'that proves it'.. you've simply illustrated that yeast works . You've made no details on your pitching rate, the yeast etc etc, which are all parts of fermentation. Also, unless you also did some o2 based ferments you have no idea if either has a better flavour or attenuation..


im also not sure a pale ale with a SG of 1.060 and a FG of 1.003 is an expected result?? thats a very low FG
 
SBOB said:
not sure how 'that proves it'.. you've simply illustrated that yeast works . You've made no details on your pitching rate, the yeast etc etc, which are all parts of fermentation. Also, unless you also did some o2 based ferments you have no idea if either has a better flavour or attenuation..


im also not sure a pale ale with a SG of 1.060 and a FG of 1.003 is an expected result?? thats a very low FG
Give it a go mate with a couple of side by sides.

When both my glass fermenters free up that's what I want to try!

Science all the way.

Edit: true, I've never had a beer get under 1014 from that OG...
 
5150 said:
My sincere apologies if this was asked before I have read most of the pages but may have missed it.

What regulators are most people using with their D Size bottles. I just picked up a bottle today and thought I had a reg at home, but no joy.

Thanks.
Yep suggest try Batz, theres a post above somewhere.

Otherwise Masters has the cigweld ones for about 50 bucks with the current discounts.
 
My Doppelbock went from 1075 down to 1012 This was O2 , plus nice big pitch 2206 yeast. At 10 degrees for couple weeks then slow raise upto 16 3rd week , then down to lagering temps. Crisp as and malty out of my hydro samples . It's lagering now. I'm sold .:)
 
Zorco said:
Give it a go mate with a couple of side by sides.

When both my glass fermenters free up that's what I want to try!

Science all the way.

Edit: true, I've never had a beer get under 1014 from that OG...
Neither have i and i have never have one ferment out so quick, it caught me by surprise, will continue with the air pump for now. The best i normally get is around 1008-12 keep in mind i am still only doing kits as i don't have the time for AG just yet. I am very keen to see your results Zorco when you get time.
 
SBOB said:
not sure how 'that proves it'.. you've simply illustrated that yeast works . You've made no details on your pitching rate, the yeast etc etc, which are all parts of fermentation. Also, unless you also did some o2 based ferments you have no idea if either has a better flavour or attenuation..


im also not sure a pale ale with a SG of 1.060 and a FG of 1.003 is an expected result?? thats a very low FG
Yep its around 95% apparent attenuation, I would if it weren't a saison or similar yeast be very suspicious that you had a wild yeast in there to.
Or you need to brush-up on how to use an hydrometer.
 
Crusty said:
You can achieve great results with air but not the same result as using pressurized O2.
You simply cannot dissolve as high a concentration of oxygen using air & it's scientifically proven.
It's the pinnacle of wort aeration & you won't see any commercial breweries using an air pump to dissolve O2.
Not knocking your process or affordability at all, just sticking with the facts.
Hi Crusty i am just posting my observations, i agree with your post and there is no way a simple air pump would work on a commercial scale but on a 21lt batch of homebrew it has helped and it has caught me buy surprise as it overshot the FG but it will make a good session beer. I am not knocking O2 and i agree that it has its place and i will be following this thread. I already had the air pump and the carb stone so it has cost me nothing to have a crack and i am happy with the result so i will continue with it, if anyone wants to try this you need a carb stone. I followed the same process that i always have and it was just a coopers Australian Pale Ale tin with the coopers yeast.
 
nic0 said:
. I followed the same process that i always have and it was just a coopers Australian Pale Ale tin with the coopers yeast.
so a K&K coopers APA tin, with coopers yeast, made to 21L and you have
SG - 1.060
FG - 1.003
Calculated ABV - 7.48%
Apparent Attenuation - 95%

I'm going to go out on a limb (and side with MHB) and say one of those gravity numbers is wrong
 
I would say both are wrong unless a shitload of dex or DME was also added to get 1.06. And then yes 1.003 is not achievable IMO without significant contribution from an undesirable microbe.

How does it taste nic0?
 
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