Frothy beer

[thuperman]

Hi all,

I have recently setup a kegerator with a font (photos to come soon, I promise). I have not made a font fan yet, I have polished 2 kegs already and I'm loving the new setup. However, I have one keg that just spits out frothy beer.

I'm a little embarrassed to say that when I followed the Ross Force Carb method, at the step where you "rock the keg back and forward", in my haste, I picked it up and "shook it side to side". It poured 80% froth.

Initially, I just left it disconnected but pressurised to 14psi and hoped it would settle. Some weeks later, I tried it again - still frothy. I read on here somewhere to release the PRV for 30min - 1hr and check it periodically until it reached the right carbonation level. I'm not sure if they meant pull the PRV and hold it for 30min - that seemed a lot of effort. Instead, I would pull the PRV a couple of times a night for about a week, releasing the pressure (no longer connected to the gas, of course). Still no good.

I resorted to opening the lid and letting it sit ajar for about an hour (at this point I was happier with an infection that I could throw out than frothy beer). I sampled it and the froth seemed to be much better but still around 40% of my glass. I have repeated this a couple of times but it doesn't seem to be continuing to improve.

Any suggestions on how I can save this keg? It doesn't come out just froth and flat beer - once it settles there is still some carbonation - it's just a PITA having to let the beer settle every time.

Thanks guys.

 

[contrarian]

Are you pouring the keg through the same line and tap as the other kegs? If not it could be an issue somewhere through there, a small blockage that is disrupting the flow.

If you leave the lid on an sealed and shake the keg then release the pressure a few times you should be able to get most of the CO2 out of solution and start again.

There could also be a blockage in your beer dip tube which would be difficult to check with a keg full of beer. You can put a beer disconnect on your gas line and force some CO2 down the tube to see if that helps.

There's a few ideas to try, I'm sure there are others as well.

 

[thuperman]

Are you pouring the keg through the same line and tap as the other kegs? If not it could be an issue somewhere through there, a small blockage that is disrupting the flow.

I have switched lines to the line that I had used for the other two kegs.

If you leave the lid on an sealed and shake the keg then release the pressure a few times you should be able to get most of the CO2 out of solution and start again.

I'll give this a go. I assume that you would need to purge the oxygen out first.

There could also be a blockage in your beer dip tube which would be difficult to check with a keg full of beer. You can put a beer disconnect on your gas line and force some CO2 down the tube to see if that helps.

I'm not sure exactly what you mean here... Switch the disconnects around? Won't they get stuck if on the wrong post?

Thanks very much for these suggestions!

 

[squirt in the turns]

I have switched lines to the line that I had used for the other two kegs.


I'll give this a go. I assume that you would need to purge the oxygen out first.


I'm not sure exactly what you mean here... Switch the disconnects around? Won't they get stuck if on the wrong post?

Thanks very much for these suggestions!

Read contrarian's advice more closely - attach a black (liquid) disconnect to your gas line (instead of the normal grey/white gas disconnect), then you can attach it to the liquid post on the keg and give it a blast of CO2.

Vent the keg first to make sure that there's no pressure which could force beer into your gas lines. This is especially important if you don't have a non-return valve on your gas line - beer in your regulator is not good.

You can unscrew the post and remove the dip tube even if the keg is full, but with the above method it shouldn't come to that.

 

[contrarian]

Yeah, I was referring to having a black/beer disconnect on a gas line, how easy this is depends on whether you have barb or JG fittings. I also have a spare gas line with a beer disconnect on for carbonating using the Ross method which also comes in handy for moving the occasional blockage.

Good advice re venting the keg first and non return valves, if you don't have one they are a good investment!

 

[thuperman]

Ah, thanks for the clarification. I read it as attach a beer disconnect to the gas post. Didn't make sense.

I'm with you now. I do have an NRV on my gas line. Unfortunately, I've got barb fittings, so I'll have to think about it.

I have a dedicated gas line (i.e. not connected to my gas line splitters) for force carbing with the Ross method and to pressurise kegs during cleaning. Maybe I could change that to a beer disconnect...

 

[Yob]

I also have a spare gas line with a beer disconnect on for carbonating using the Ross method which also comes in handy for moving the occasional blockage.

why does it need to be a beer disconnect? Cant you just connect a gas disconnect and shake? :blink:

 

[antiphile]

Hi thuper (that really is a thuper name)

I'm really not trying to teach you how to suck eggs, and note that no one here has less experience at kegging than I, but it may be worthwhile getting this pdf (http://morebeer.com/themes/morewinepro//kegging.pdf) to answer some of your questions.

The other one that may be good as a starting point for force carbing, is Gash Slugg's youtube video (https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=5g07Yj6-Ykw).

Cheers mate

 

[danestead]

why does it need to be a beer disconnect? Cant you just connect a gas disconnect and shake? :blink:

I do the same yob. The beer disconnect allows you to send the co2 down the dip tube which makes it much easier when rapidly force carbing the keg. That's my experience anyway.

 

[Yob]

interesting.. may swap one over and see if there is much difference.

 

[Black n Tan]

Once over-carbed it is a pain to get right. I would not recommend leaving the PRV open or removing the lid for any length of time, for risk of oxidation. But that is water under the bridge now. I assume you kept the keg in the fridge during this time. It is much quicker to degas when the keg is warm, so I would let it warm up and then release the PRV periodically over a few days. Then chill again and try. It will probably now be under-carbed, so this time just hook it up at the serving pressure and wait a few days. Next time consider the set and forget measure, until you get more confidence then play around with the ross method.

 

[contrarian]

why does it need to be a beer disconnect? Cant you just connect a gas disconnect and shake? :blink:

I used to do this, actually I used to lie the keg on the ground and roll about with my foot, now I just leave it upright and rock back and forth. Can't say I've noticed any significant difference except using the beer disconnect my feet get far less cold. Shoes in my brewery are strictly optional.

 

[thuperman]

So, I did it again. I'm pretty sure that I am just rocking it too hard. Been following these instructions but I'm doing something wrong.

To lower the carbonation, I've been agitating the keg, releasing the pressure, letting it settle, repeat. Will test it tomorrow once it's settled.

 

[neo__04]

Not telling you to not work out the rocking force carb method, but ive had beer froth problems, and im still very new to kegging.

I just found leaving it at serving pressure for a week or so and it comes good in its own time.

And theres no way to overcarb. works for me

 

[thuperman]

One of the first pieces of advice I was given (before I had even decided that I'd definitely keg) was to always turn the gas off when not in use. "No matter how careful you are, there'll always be a leak somewhere" was what I was told. Maybe that's just being a little paranoid. This is what has always scared me off the set and forget method. I haven't gone around with a spray bottle of detergent water to check for leaks yet. The other reason is that on one occasion, I'd only kegged the beer on the day of the event that I was going to drink it, so need it carbed quick.

 

[danestead]

The more head space in the keg when you shake, the quicker it will carb up when shaking. It makes a dramatic difference depending onif you have it filled right to the brim compared to an inch or 2 under. Also, if when you turn off the co2 and keep shaking, the pressure drops below your normal serving pressure of say 8-14psi ish, you will never overcarb your beer. Let the keg then settle for half hour or so then pour ypurself a nice beer. The final small amount of carbing will sort itself oit over the next couple of days.

 

[thuperman]

The more head space in the keg when you shake, the quicker it will carb up when shaking. It makes a dramatic difference depending onif you have it filled right to the brim compared to an inch or 2 under. Also, if when you turn off the co2 and keep shaking, the pressure drops below your normal serving pressure of say 8-14psi ish, you will never overcarb your beer. Let the keg then settle for half hour or so then pour ypurself a nice beer. The final small amount of carbing will sort itself oit over the next couple of days.

Thanks, you could be onto something. I generally fill 1/4-1/2 inch under the weld mark in the keg which does leave a good 1-2 inches of headspace.

Next time I think I will crank the pressure down to 30psi instead of 43, rock more gently, rock for only 30-40sec. It's much easier to rock more than uncarb. Eventually I will find what works for me.

 

[Pogierob]

I have had a couple of over carbed kegs in my early days.
I simply released all pressure from the keg and then kept releasing it periodically over the next 24 hours or so. The more often the better until there was no pressure. I then set to pouring pressure and forget it for a couple of days.
They have always come good, now that I have put a good number of kegs through my system I am more in tune with it and have rock carbed my last couple since I have run out of my bottle back up supplies. I do it in about 4 stages of shake, settle pour a sampler, repeat until I get my brew to a stage of being a little under carbed for what I like. I then set to pouring pressure (after a couple of pints mind you).
If you have any will power at all try to leave your keg for a few weeks before getting stuck into it as the difference is mind blowing. Sure a young beer is drinkable but an aged one is like a blow job compared to a wank.

 

[Spiesy]

Sure a young beer is drinkable but an aged one is like a blow job compared to a wank.

Quoted for posterity.

 

[thuperman]

Sure a young beer is drinkable but an aged one is like a blow job compared to a wank.

Not only is this hilarious, it's also great advice.

My currently fermenting brew is a hefeweizen, so I'll want to drink that that young, but I will have to start aging my kegs. I used to leave my bottles at least a month. Don't know where I lost my patience. I think it's supply vs demand at the moment.

Is it best to condition kegs in the keezer (set to 3C)?