Font without thread

[thuperman]

I recently bought this font from Cheeky Peak. Thought I would just drill a hole in the lid of my chest freezer and screw the font to the lid - easy, right?

Then I started reading some threads on this forum and discovered that the sheet metal on the lid is not stable enough to support the font.

I found this awesome thread by Batz and decided that I would fix some wood to the top and screw the font into it. I can't say that I'm not a little nervous about this as I am tool-challenged and don't have a circular saw to use (I guess I'll be using a hand saw).

Then I noticed that most people seem to have a "thread" to fix the font to and run the lines through? Do I really need this? I don't have one.



I was thinking that I would still need to line the hole with something (Bluetac, foam, a rubber grommet?) to protect the lines and prevent cold air from dissipating into the cavity in the lid?

Finally, I tried to connect my font, shanks and taps (Perlick 650SS) - just by hand for now - and I couldn't get the shank onto the tap very far. How would I tighten it?



Thanks for your help!

 

[Drew]

Something like this helps

http://www.brewmart.com.au/brewmart-shop/catalogue/?detail&ItemID=3682&SZIDX=0&CCODE=16751+C123&QOH=51&CATID=236&CLN=1

 

[thuperman]

Thanks, Drew, that's brilliant. I was worried that the size of the Perlick 650s had changed slightly making it too tight.

Would still love some advice on the font from anyone out there that can assist. Cheers!

 

[spog]

I recently bought this font from Cheeky Peak. Thought I would just drill a hole in the lid of my chest freezer and screw the font to the lid - easy, right?

Then I started reading some threads on this forum and discovered that the sheet metal on the lid is not stable enough to support the font.

I found this awesome thread by Batz and decided that I would fix some wood to the top and screw the font into it. I can't say that I'm not a little nervous about this as I am tool-challenged and don't have a circular saw to use (I guess I'll be using a hand saw).

Then I noticed that most people seem to have a "thread" to fix the font to and run the lines through? Do I really need this? I don't have one.

20140905_093134.jpg

I was thinking that I would still need to line the hole with something (Bluetac, foam, a rubber grommet?) to protect the lines and prevent cold air from dissipating into the cavity in the lid?

Finally, I tried to connect my font, shanks and taps (Perlick 650SS) - just by hand for now - and I couldn't get the shank onto the tap very far. How would I tighten it?

20140905_093315.jpg

Thanks for your help!

The "thread" your are referring to cant be added to your font ,those that come with a threaded mount have it built in during manufacture.
So fixing a mounting board to the freezer lid then screwing the font to that is your best option,use some silicone or similar under the board to help with a stronger mount.
As for the hole through the lid carefully ( avoiding any sharp edges) smear silicone inside to seal it.
Cheers...spog...

 

[thuperman]

Thanks heaps, spog. That's really helpful! I think I know what I am doing now. Next step is to find out if I have the skills for the job... :blink:

 

[pk.sax]

I reckon you'd have a far more stable mount with the spread out screws on the flange of the tower than people do with an integrated mounting thread. And the font is lighter so it will 'lean' not at all comparatively.

I'd personally either screw it straight into the lid and have only a minimal hole in the lid for the beer line to go through or as you plan to make a wooden/ply base, screw it to that and glue that to the lid. Don't worry about gluing the font to the lid/wood - the gasket there + the cap on top of the font keeps it all in neatly. Pop a piece of styrofoam on top under the font cap to insulate it if you want.

 

[thuperman]

Well, if I can get away without the wooden mount, that'd be even better. I guess I'll find out soon enough.

Thanks! Feeling much more confident now.

 

[pk.sax]

Use really massive spread washers in the other side of the lid for the screws understand the nuts. That lid material is thin but I reckon you can get away with it if you spread out the leaning weight of the tower as much as possible.

 

[thuperman]

Wow, I think I've got you. That makes sense! Really appreciate it. You've saved me so much time. At worst, it's worth a try!

 

[spog]

Use really massive spread washers in the other side of the lid for the screws understand the nuts. That lid material is thin but I reckon you can get away with it if you spread out the leaning weight of the tower as much as possible.

As you suggested, use some small diameter all thread wtih dome nuts and washers. Maybe 5/16 inch all thread with progressively larger washers to spread the load on the underside and small suitable washers and a dome nut on the font flange to match the font finish.
Or a piece of ply or similar underneath to help distribute the weight/pressure etc.

 

[thuperman]

As you suggested, use some small diameter all thread wtih dome nuts and washers. Maybe 5/16 inch all thread with progressively larger washers to spread the load on the underside and small suitable washers and a dome nut on the font flange to match the font finish.
Or a piece of ply or similar underneath to help distribute the weight/pressure etc.

Sorry, I'm a little lost now.

5/16 inch is about 8mm. The holes in the font flange are only 7mm. Does a 5/16 fit into that?

Are you suggesting a 5/16 (phillips head) bolt that screws in through the flange and lid, then put in some spread washers, larger first then smaller, followed by a dome nut?

I'm not sure why I would need washers or nuts on the flange. It has a gasket.

Pardon my ignorance.

 

[pk.sax]

Yea, think you only need the washers on the underside. He flange is countersunk and hopefully cheeky peak gave you screws to match, just need to get matching nuts and washers for the other side.

 

[thuperman]

Unfortunately no screws came with it. I've been Googling major and minor thread widths but I'm still lost. I know this is probably simple for anyone handy with tools.

I guess my questions now are:
- What thickness screw/bolt to buy?
- How wide to drill the hole for it?
- How many washers to use? Is it just one unless I need to flesh it out for a dome nut? Do they start wider and get smaller closer to the nut. A normal nut means I only need one wide washer and a bolt a little longer than required?

 

[dicko]

I used 1/4" inch by 3" inch stainless countersunk head screws with self locking stainless nuts and I cut a 1/8" inch thick aluminium plate to fit on the underside of the lid and the screws go through that as well.

Solid as a rock.

 

[spog]

Sorry, I'm a little lost now.

5/16 inch is about 8mm. The holes in the font flange are only 7mm. Does a 5/16 fit into that?

Are you suggesting a 5/16 (phillips head) bolt that screws in through the flange and lid, then put in some spread washers, larger first then smaller, followed by a dome nut?

I'm not sure why I would need washers or nuts on the flange. It has a gasket.

Pardon my ignorance.

Grab some all thread to suit the holes on the font flange I think 6mm would be as close you will get to suit a 7mm hole.
A dome nut on top ( this is for aesthetics if you can't get a suitable bolt ) the all thread then goes through the flange mounting holes,then gasket,then the lid then fixed to the inside of the lid with suitable washers and nuts .
Cheers....spog...

 

[spog]

Grab some all thread to suit the holes on the font flange I think 6mm would be as close you will get to suit a 7mm hole.
A dome nut on top ( this is for aesthetics if you can't get a suitable bolt ) the all thread then goes through the flange mounting holes,then gasket,then the lid then fixed to the inside of the lid with suitable washers and nuts .
Cheers....spog...[/quote
]
Fixing to the lid with dome nut on top. Ignore the threaded mount on this example as yours doesn't have it.

Plywood backing on the inside of the lid as the lid lining may be uneven ,make the ply about 150 mm square as this will help brace the font and distribute the pressure on the plastic lid lining.
The ply can be any thickness above say 6 mm so it won't buckle and distort and cause the font to loosen.
You could use any timber or ally plate for this,work out the position for the font,mark the font mounting holes and drill through .
Then drill a suitable sized hole in the centre to take the beer line .
Then holding the base board in place mark the holes by drilling through the holes in the lid.
WARNING. All you need do is mark these holes in the timber then put it on the bench and drill all the way through,this way you won't drill through your hand !
Whatever size thread is selected for mounting , a drill bit of the same size is needed to drill the holes in the lid and backing board.
Hope this helps . Cheers...spog...
Also check that the lid has no wires or cooling coils feeding into it.have a look around the top edge of the unit to try and spot any going in..

 

[thuperman]

This is above and beyond. I'll be sure to post pics once I'm done so that you can face palm or pat yourself on the back. Cheers all!

 

[pk.sax]

I like what ur doing there spog!

Slightly overkill for op but cool nevertheless.

Cheaky peak's bolts to suit are 4.8mm wide countersink screws. That is they are 3/16 thread (I think). Get 3/16" countersunk screws and matching nuts and washers/piece of metal to reinforce lid on the inside.

 

[thuperman]

Trying to get bolts, nuts and washers that match at that big green warehouse is a nightmare. Best I could do was 75mm 3/16 round top bolts, washers, nuts. 7mm ply.

Should be right. Thanks again!

 

[dicko]

A marine supply shop is a good spot to buy s/steel bolts and nuts.