Fix For Crown Urn Boiling Issues

[amarks5]

My unmodified Crown urn takes about 20 minutes to get from 70 degrees to boil, but will then boil vigorously with thermostat set at 100 (not maxed out).

I have lagged it with a sheet of insulation that's black rubber with reflective sheet on one side (from Clark Rubber, but probably cheaper elsewhere).

Cheers,

Tony

 

[Tim]

I have had no troubles with my standard concealed element Crown. It maintains a rolling boil even in winter.

Sure the boil isn't jumping out of the kettle but its continuously rolling which is all you need, anything more is overkill.

 

[afromaiko]

So why is it that some people feel the need to do the mod then, but some don't have any problems with the boil?

 

[afromaiko]

I'm still curious to find out the answer to the above question before I decide whether to purchase one. Cheers.

 

[Spork]

I may be wrong, but I believe the "problem" occurs only with higher gravity brews.

 

[afromaiko]

The higher the gravity, the higher the boiling point then?

I wonder at what gravity it becomes an issue.

 

[Aus_Rider_22]

I use you a Crown 40L urn with a concealed element.

I haven't mod'd it. It gets a good rolling boil without insulation. After reading this thread I think I will try the matting insulation as the only gripe I have is it takes a little while to go from mash to boiling. I used to wrap it in blankets for the mash but do things a little differently and can keep a stable temp for the mash period these days.

No doubt the exposed element urns will come to the boil quicker but I like to have the security of knowing my bag can't come into direct with the heat source plus the ease of cleaning is awesome.

 

[Spork]

@ Afromaiko: Not from my (limited) understanding. From what I've read, the higher the gravity the more likley to trip the boil-dry protection circuit.

 

[ianh]

afromaiko as stated in my previous post I only think it becomes a problem when you have material coating the concealed element cover. I don't think having a higher gravity would be a problem, though I do not brew above 1.060.

I just scrape the element cover with my paint scraper and do not have any problems.

My last 10 brews, evaporation rates 3.4,3.5,3.3,3.2,3.3,3.3,3.3,3.3,3.3,3.4 in litres per hour an that is in an unheated garage in Tassie through Winter.

cheers

Ian

 

[iJosh]

Resurrecting an oldish thread...

I did a normal gravity brew on the weekend (1036 preboil) and had the boil dry cut-off problem and it was shitting me to no end. Anyway, this was my second only brew in the crown concealed and the first time I put hop pellets directly in the wort, last time I boiled the hops in a sock. I'm thinking the extra material in the boil was the issue as the 'disc' over the element was coated with caked on gunk, which I'm pretty sure wasn't as bad last time (I didn't actually pay a lot of attention).

Should I just go ahead with the mod or do I try again with the hop sock, but potentially get pissed off to the max again... Mind you, there's a good chance a busted urn would piss me off too!

Are modded urns still cranking along nicely these days?

 

[Bribie G]

It's not just the concealed element models, my exposed Crown has cut out a few times, and when I did a protein rest and then tried to ramp up to mash temperature I nearly wrecked the element, there's still areas of black shyte I can't get to.

Hop sock would be the go. If you want to give the hoppies a good boil, as I've posted elsewhere, you can make a swimming pool for them by pegging one of these around and chuck in a couple of SS spoons to weigh it down, all the boil has to go up through it to escape and gives really good results compared to hop socks etc that tend to restrict the hop rolling and boiling.

 

[iJosh]

Hi Bribie,

I was considering a similar idea using a spare BIAB bag. So you found using a bag like this reduced the crud from the hops baking on? I really don't want to get half way through a boil and have this problem again... I was ready pick the whole lot up and throw it on the concrete! Lucky it was too heavy and too hot and I love beer too much... h34r:

I guess I have 2 options: try a bag again risking cut-offs, or do the mod but potentially reduce my urn's life... :wacko:

 

[Bribie G]

I'd go the bag.. those grain bags from Ross retain nearly all the material, even from pellets.


Go the old bag trick :blink:

 

[iJosh]

Whoa... That is one scary looking bag! :blink:

Alrighty then. Next brew I will give the bag another go, if that's a fail I will reconsider the mod

 

[seamad]

Do you give the element a scrub mid boil?

I made up a long scrubbing brush ( pic in my sig) and that improves things
cheers
Sean

 

[Scottye]

Gave my new Crown Urn with concealed element its first run tonight - A Mild Ale.
Managed to sustain a rolling boil for 60 minutes and boil off 3 litres.
Brew was outside in Southern Tasmania where the temperature was 11 degrees.
Pretty wrapped I was worried when I stumbled onto this thread a couple of days after I purchased the Urn.
Decided against the Mod.

Cheers

 

[Alex.Tas]

Hey Von Scott, I did a brew yesterday (sunday), the day after you did yours. I have a new (month or so old) concealed element crown urn too.
I got an evap rate of 6L after a 105 min boil, so thats 3.43L per hour. I brewed in my garage, next to the open door.

I considered buying a new thermostat available form crown, which ups the cut out form 110 to 130 apparently. I called up crown to order one and had a chat. They recommended not bothering buying the upgraded thermostat, and its been fine so far (2 brews).

 

[ianh]

Similar sort of findings, get 3.3 - 3.4 l/hr boil off in the garage in winter. Urn lagged with camping mat, 31 litres start of boil volume (100C)

Averaged 3.49 l/hr boil off over 130 brews in crown urn.

No mods just scape element cover before start of boil.

 

[f15h]

I have an alternative solution. I have been thinking about this since i put together my first temperature controller back in my bung it in a bucket days. most electronics belt/mat controllers can be modified with a higher rated solid state relay (or do as i did and buy the bits and make your own controller from scratch) thermocouple controlled temperature is far superior to the variable temperature control in the urn. just plug it into your heat out and tape your thermocouple onto the side of the urn with a fabric bandaid. Brewshops sell temp controllers for ~$50 and a 15A SSR will cost ~$10. my box cost me a bit more because i have both heating and cooling 240v outs. ~$65

Just did a quick ebay search. you can buy ~$20
PID REX-C100 Temperature Controller +max.40A SSR +K Thermocouple Probe 0-400℃

 

[anthonyUK]

There is no issue with the thermometer. Build up on the concealed element causes it to overheat and the thermal protection kicks in and cuts the power until it cools down.

The last time I looked, the REX C100 is not ideal for SSR use without a mod as it has relay outputs. It is very cheap and it shows unfortunately but some people have had some success using them.