First time brewer

[gdupagne]

Hi guys proud to say I just put on my first brew. I bought a kegerator a few months back and today I put down my first brew. It's a coopers lager kit. A few newbie questions. The kit comes with a krausen collar but no airlock like I've seen on other fermenters? Is this going to be ok or do I need to buy an airlock? Also SG is 1055 does this seem about right?

I look forward to getting in to partial brews shortly and being able to drink my own beer has always been a goal of mine.

 

[TheBigD]

itll be fine air locks are not needed

 

[Unclestewbrew]

What did you add with the Lager kit ?

Seems a bit high but I'm sure , there's others here that can give a definite answer ,

Cheers

 

[Leviathan]

Hi guys proud to say I just put on my first brew. I bought a kegerator a few months back and today I put down my first brew. It's a coopers lager kit. A few newbie questions. The kit comes with a krausen collar but no airlock like I've seen on other fermenters? Is this going to be ok or do I need to buy an airlock? Also SG is 1055 does this seem about right?

I look forward to getting in to partial brews shortly and being able to drink my own beer has always been a goal of mine.

This is the newer Coopers fermenter, no airlock is needed. If all you used was the can of lager and the brew enhancer 1 that comes with the starter kit you've likely grabbed a concentrated pour into the hydrometer, i think my lager was around 1036 or so for 23 litres from that starter kit.

 

[gdupagne]

Ok yep maybe a concentrated pour. I'll take another reading a see what it comes up with. Just a standard lager can and brew enhancer 1

 

[gdupagne]

Took a reading tonight and got 1045 any idea if this will be ok

 

[TheWiggman]

Welcome to the brewing game/obsession. The kit you bought is the Coopers kit and the krausen collar is designed so an airlock is not required. Most fermenters with airlocks don't seal air-tight anyway so a lot of the time the airlock is just for looks. A look I like :icon_cheers:
I assume being your first brew it was the lager and 1kg of BE1 that came with it? In that case 1.055 is too high and 1.045 is not much of a drop in two days.

Your OG should be around 1.040.
Volume should be 23 litres.
Fermenting temp should be 18°C for Coopers Lager kit yeast

If it's too cold it won't ferment properly. If you haven't added much water the gravity (SG, on your hydrometer) will be high. Can you give us more details?

 

[gdupagne]

It could be that I'm taking readings incorrectly. There was a bit of froth in the tube. Am I supposed to let this settle before taking readings?

 

[gdupagne]

Volume is 23 litres and temp is sitting between 18 and 20 degrees

 

[TheWiggman]

Sounds like everything's spot on then. The froth is krausen which means fermentation is underway. Once this subsides in the fermenter take another reading then.

 

[gdupagne]

Thanks

 

[gdupagne]

Brews been in the fermenter for 8 days still sitting at 1020 it has been colder last few nights would this have slowed the process

 

[wereprawn]

There are many things that will affect your fg . Temp control is crucial to making good beer. In general 18-20c is the recommended temp for ales. Next time ,If it gets a bit cool at night, try wrapping a blanket or similar around it, then unwrap in the morning. This time, move your fermentor to a warm, dark place and give it a gentle swirl to encourage your yeast to wake up, check your gravity again in a couple of days. When you can, grab a cheap/free secondhand fridge and a temp controller( about $15-$20 off ebay). Apart from cleaning and sanitisation, temp control is the single best thing you will do to make better beer.

Edit- you may need a heat belt or similar as well .

 

[Danscraftbeer]

What is its temp? In Melbourne now you need no temp control its just right.
I let them sit for at least 2 weeks to a month.
Coopers Pale Ale Can Brew makes an excellent basic beer. The Draught Can and others. With the supplied yeast its all good.
(I always make a starter to prove the yeast)
a 20lt brew:
1.7kg Can
1kg Dextrose is a dry beer at~5.0% alc/vol. (around about)
1kg Light Dry Malt is smoother at ~4.5%
The Lager Can I didn't like so much. Same care taken.

 

[gdupagne]

Rights fermenter is now living inside wrapped in a blanket let's see if this helps it finish

 

[gdupagne]

Rights fermenter is now living inside wrapped in a blanket let's see if this helps it finish

 

[Jazzman]

I don't see you mention anywhere what your fermenter temp is, or the ambient temp. It'd be helpful to know this. Get one if those stick on temp gauges from the homebrew shop and put it on the fermenter down lowish. Then you'll know what's going on. A great investment for a couple of bucks.

 

[NewtownClown]

I don't see you mention anywhere what your fermenter temp is, or the ambient temp. It'd be helpful to know this. Get one if those stick on temp gauges from the homebrew shop and put it on the fermenter down lowish. Then you'll know what's going on. A great investment for a couple of bucks.

He does, in post 9

 

[NewtownClown]

With the supplied yeast its all good.
(I always make a starter to prove the yeast)

Proving yeast and making a starter are two different processes.
The former is hydrating active dry yeast whilst the latter is propagating yeast in order to have a high enough cell count to inoculate a larger volume of wort.
Dry yeast consists of live cells encapsulated in growth media (including dead cells) and are best activated or proofed with hydration in warm water (27c +/-3c. for US-05).
They can also be sprinkled directly on the surface of the wort then stirred in after 15-30 mins but you will lose a percentage of yeast with this method.

Making a starter from dry yeast is not good practice for the nutrients and growth media they are packed with will be consumed in the production of the starter and not available when pitched into the wort, when they need it the most.

 

[gdupagne]

Beer has been inside now 2 days sitting at 16-18 degrees. Sitting at 1015 now. When will it be safe to keg?

 

[BrosysBrews]

Close to 1.010 would be better, try and get it a little warmer to finish off!

 

[Brewman_]

Dry yeast consists of live cells encapsulated in growth media (including dead cells) and are best activated or proofed with hydration in warm water (27c +/-3c. for US-05).
They can also be sprinkled directly on the surface of the wort then stirred in after 15-30 mins but you will lose a percentage of yeast with this method.

Where did you get this reference from?
Contradicts the instructions from Saf.
Or Am I missing something?

 

[Coalminer]

Direct quote from Fermentis PDF for US-05

Sprinkle the yeast in minimum 10 times its weight of sterile water or wort at 27°c ± 3°C (80°F ± 6°F). Leave to rest 15 to 30 minutes.
Gently stir for 30 minutes, and pitch the resultant cream into the fermentation vessel.
Alternatively, pitch the yeast directly in the fermentation vessel providing the temperature of the wort is above 20°C (68°F). Progressively sprinkle
the dry yeast into the wort ensuring the yeast covers all the surface of wort available in order to avoid clumps. Leave for 30 minutes, then mix the
wort using aeration or by wort

http://www.fermentis.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/SFA_US05.pdf

 

[Brewman_]

Good on you Paul, Thank you for that.

Cheers Steve

 

[Danscraftbeer]

Proving yeast and making a starter are two different processes.
The former is hydrating active dry yeast whilst the latter is propagating yeast in order to have a high enough cell count to inoculate a larger volume of wort.


Splitting hairs is to say that hydrating yeast is just with water.
Starting yeast is with wort and a visual observation of the activity of the yeasts reaction with the sugars etc. - Proving the yeast

Whatever!. If it ferments well then it is well. :chug:

 

[Jazzman]

He does, in post 9

Sorry, was reading on the app on phone on train. Missed it.

 

[antiphile]

Hi James

The Coopers Original Series Lager and BE1 (600g dextrose + 400g maltodextrin) that comes with the DIY kit is best described as a "proof of concept" beer. It includes an ale yeast, and the result is very bland and uninspiring. The average of dozens of batches from different people in 23 litres is:
OG 1.036 to 1.038
FG 1.014 to 1.016 (due to the maltodextrin)
ABV 3.6 to 3.8%

The result is drinkable but hardly exciting. You will get better results if you try some of the recipes on the Coopers website or here on AHB.

Once you start making hop, malt & grain additions it will get better, but most people progress to beers they are much prouder of using the recipes on this (AHB) and the Coopers websites. Cheers.

 

[gdupagne]

Pleased to say I kegged my brew yesterday. FG 1014 after 14 days. I bulk primed with 170 grams of dextrose and have it in temp controlled fridge @ 18 degrees for the next 2 weeks. Hope it turns out ok.

 

[dave81]

170gms of dex in the keg?i think you may be deagssing rhis one for a while
.i used 50gns as a general rule if thumb and still end up degassing sometimes. (ales tho)
What made you use that much dex,did u use a calculator to work out how much to add?

 

[gdupagne]

Got told 170 from a mate