Fermenting questions, and storage in bottles

[pat86]

Yes good point, I should have been more clear about my reasoning to for racking to secondary. The point was to keep it cool for at least 2 weeks after fermentation was completed because I can fit a 25L cube/polygon next to my fermenter in the fermenting fridge. Thought the 2 extra weeks of cool conditioning would give it a better chance?

If you've controlled the first week or 2 weeks of primary fermentation where the yeast is doing most of the work I don't think the extra 2 weeks at that temp would make a big taste difference? Perhaps you could just bring the fridge down to 0-3C for a few days of Crash chilling, which will clear out the beer before you bottle. That way you avoid transferring to a secondary FV too.

I recently asked the same question about temp control for bottle conditioning to reduce twang and got some good answers:

• Temperature fluctuation is the big problem (ie. a spot that has poor insulation like in the middle of a room that may swing between 20C - 25C). I don't know the limits but basically if I had to choose a steady 23 degrees or a place that swung between 17-25C, I would pick the steady 23C one.
• High temps are bad - the ideal temp should be around the fermentation temp, so an 18C ale should be conditioned as close to that as possible
• Bottle conditioning temps will make a difference to the flavour, but not as much difference as the primary ferment (which takes the wort from 0% to say 5%, whereas the bottle condition is only changing the equiv of 0.4 - 0.5% ABV) Not a scientific measurement at all but you get the idea - less yeast activity and change, so less overall impact on taste.

I was going to actually do an experiment proposed I think by Stu next brew, where I bottle condition half at 18C and half at a warmer temp (ambient is probably 23-24C) and see what the taste difference is. Please feel free to do this one as well and report back!

Also give your first brews some extra time, my first beer fermented between 26-28C and had a definite twang to it, but after about 10-12 weeks it actually started tasting pretty good and the off tastes are pretty much gone. Pity I drank most of it already - so you never know!

 

[SnakeRider]

Thanks for the info guys.

pat: I will join you on this adventure of splitting the cold conditioning for some bottles and not others.

So far the only experiment I have done on every single batch is that I tested the difference in taste between carbonation drops, castor sugar, and brown sugar for priming. There is bugger all difference in the carbonation drops and castor sugar, but the brown sugar surprised me by having less of this 'twang' flavor. This has been the case for both brews I have tasted. Brown sugar is annoying to get in the funnel though because it is sticky.

My last beer fermented in the heat wave so I may give it the full 8-10 weeks you mentioned and see how she goes cheers for the tip.

 

[wbosher]

Don't get your hopes up too much though. When I first got my fermenting fridge and STC-1000 I pulled all of the shelves off the door so that the fermenter would fit in, forgetting the the top shelf was the one that hit the button to turn the light off...amazing how much heat the little bulb puts out.

Anyway, I set it at 18 or 19 degrees shut the door and walked away. A couple of days later I checked on it and it was up in the high 20s with the fridge running non-stop. I removed the bulb and it returned to the temp I had set, but the damage was done.

Beer was bloody awful. I drank it as punishment for making such a stupid mistake, but it took a looong time. Even the last bottle tasted disgusting after probably 3 months...a little better perhaps, but not much.

 

[carniebrew]

<snip>
Brown sugar is annoying to get in the funnel though because it is sticky.

Bulk prime with the brown sugar, no funnel required....

 

[SnakeRider]

Ho I got all excited this morning, and hooked up my reptile thermostat to my fridge in cold mode. Works like a charm!

So I went down to a different brew shop (to check it out) and ended up buying the following:

- Coopers sparkling ale kit
- 1kg light dry malt extract
- 11.5g Safale US-05 yeast
- 15g Copper Tun Pride of Ringwood finishing hops

I am fermenting at 18.5 degrees as the yeast says 15-22 is ideal.

OG 1060

I am hoping to make my first good beer from this batch all very exciting.

If this turns out good. I am going to pimp my dodgy fridge so its no longer a 70's rust bucket.

 

[unclebarrel]

Hey SnakeRider,
I would bet this beer turns out pretty good because apart from decent ingredients you have US05 and are fermenting at 18.
I have never use POR hops so can't comment there. I have heard mixed reports, I suppose I should try them myself one day.
Anyway.
Good stuff man !

Look forward to you posting about specialty grains and bittering hops etc etc very soon !!!! Haha !


UB