Fermenting In A Cube

[Guysmiley54]

I often ferment in cubes. I have used glad wrap and rubber band but more often I just tighten the lid, then back it off a touch so that gas can escape.

Recently I thought fermenting was nearly finished in an ESB so tightened it right up. Next day I came out to a very swollen cube so be careful if you follow the above method.

If your lid lets air in and out, it sounds as if it's perfect for fermenting as the gas will be released.

This was actually my original plan and the sort of feedback I was looking for! I ended up with Glad wrap and hairbands

I set my temp controller to 18, pitched and went to bed. This morning my wort was under 10 as my controller was still at the temp I left it on previously to CC my last batch DOH! Any all is good on 18 now and hoping for fermentation to start (albeit a little late)

 

[bignath]

I ended up with Glad wrap and hairbands

You brewing a blonde?

 

[Guysmiley54]

You brewing a blonde?

You did say brewing right? B)

 

[InCider]

I'm with Manticle on the tighten and back off technique - not for blondes though. Just cubes. Saves ginning around, and it's easy. The CO2 generated in fermentation will provide enough of a blanket of the beer, and the bugs can't get past the lid. And I too have fermented with the lid screwed tight...makes a bigger cube they say! :lol:

 

[kjparker]

Is there any reason I shouldn't ferment in a cube?

I just picked up a bar fridge from ebay, and suspect I wont fit a traditional fermenter, but a cube should fit fine.

Also, is bunnings the cheapest place to get a cube from? I still havent put my first brew down, but I wanted to get the basics down first, by that is getting fermentation temps right, and sanitation etc.

I will just be doing kit and kilo brews to start with.

 

[Bribie G]

I mainly use a 10 / 10 system - ten days in primary in a 'standard' fermenter, then into a cube with a tap and ten days cold conditioning at fridge temperature. Cubes make great cold conditioners as you can fill them to the top hence no air space to risk oxidisation. If you are interested in cold conditioning then use the cubes for that and get some Willows for no chill.

edit:
Clueless, for fermenting as opposed to no chilling or cold conditioning, you would do better with a Willow 25L cube
As you can see it's squatter but fatter than the 20L (at the bottom of the page) and will give you some extra headroom for foaming.
However you don't need an airlock, just some clingwrap and a rubber band, then later as the fermentation dies down put the cap on and keep it open just a crack.
And wash it immediately after use and give it a good dose of nappisan to nuke the residues, or buy a big bottle brush like the carboy guys use.

 

[Mikedub]

BribieG, what does the 10 days cold conditioning do for the beer?, (I'm assuming this is for an ale, and not a lagering technique)

 

[hsb]

Is there any reason I shouldn't ferment in a cube?

I just picked up a bar fridge from ebay, and suspect I wont fit a traditional fermenter, but a cube should fit fine.

Also, is bunnings the cheapest place to get a cube from? I still havent put my first brew down, but I wanted to get the basics down first, by that is getting fermentation temps right, and sanitation etc.

I will just be doing kit and kilo brews to start with.

People in Plastic sell cubes, no idea if cheaper than Bunnings...
http://www.peopleinplastic.com.au/

Anything that is non-porous that you can cover could be used, so a cube is definitely OK. I don't tend to because I use them for No Chill so don't want the hassle of cleaning out ferment material.
Cleaning would be more difficult since you can't get right in there but with right cleaning product no problem whatsoever.
Just check the plastic rating is OK if you go for something unusual (I think HDPE - #4 is the ideal type?)

Cold conditioning will help drop out all the yeast and give you a brighter brew if you don't filter, that's the reason I (sometimes) use that method myself,

 

[Bribie G]

I keg nowadays with the odd bottle kept in an archive. The cold conditioning really clears out the beer, I add gelatine at the beginning and polyclar two days before kegging and end up with crystal clear beer into the keg which is ready to drink as soon as it's carbed (two days in the case of UK ales).
I had been considering getting a filter but I find with cold conditioning the beer is perfectly bright so I get 19L of clear beer from the first pour, not a keg that doesn't start running bright until nearly the end. Also the cold conditioning, I find, matures the beer so there's no 'green beer' flavour.

 

[petesbrew]

thread-related Steps to my latest balls-up:
1. Stored my latest Belgian Pale Ale in a cube and sat it in the garage
2. Not worry about tiny, tiny leak from the bottom tap. It was done tight, and I squeezed all the air out.
3. Mow lawn a week later, return the used, grass covered mower & whipper snipper to the garage, 2 feet away from the cube.
4. Saturday hits, very hot temps.
5. Move cube over a few inches closer to the mower so I can get to the bar fridge easier.
6. Sunday, go out to get a screwdriver to see cube bulging at the sides, with an inch thick krausen.
7. Open lid to vent gas
8. Almost puke from the creamed corn stench.
9. Swear and cry
10. Warn wife to hold nose, carry cube to laundry and dump it.
11. Bleach the sink, Light incense & candles everywhere and have a beer to cheer myself up.

 

[hsb]

Commiserations. Crushing to see that cube go up early. Creamed Corn doesn't sound like the wild yeast to save the day.
I don't bother with taps on my No Chill cubes but I'm guessing you might be fermenting direct from them (when you are ready, not when the whippersnipper decides)?
Otherwise they aren't really needed, tipping it all into another vessel when you're ready gives a good aeration and it's one less source for infection/failure.

 

[petesbrew]

Commiserations. Crushing to see that cube go up early. Creamed Corn doesn't sound like the wild yeast to save the day.
I don't bother with taps on my No Chill cubes but I'm guessing you might be fermenting direct from them (when you are ready, not when the whippersnipper decides)?
Otherwise they aren't really needed, tipping it all into another vessel when you're ready gives a good aeration and it's one less source for infection/failure.

Actually I'm wrong, it was the little taphole plug, not a tap. I just hadn't done it tight enough (obviously).
Was meant for storing, not for fermenting in... dammit.
The funny thing is, it leaked all over a 3rd place certificate that fell off the door... the very beer the recipe was based upon!

 

[hsb]

Actually I'm wrong, it was the little taphole plug, not a tap. I just hadn't done it tight enough (obviously).
Was meant for storing, not for fermenting in... dammit.
The funny thing is, it leaked all over a 3rd place certificate that fell off the door... the very beer the recipe was based upon!

A definite sign from the brew gods there!

I haven't lost a brew in a no chill cube yet, though I have through ferment, hope it inspires a 1st place for you.
#$@%^#%^ to your taphole plug! #!$%!#$%!!

 

[Bribie G]

One advantage of the genuine Willow cubes is that they have a tap blank but it's solid. Inside the cube it's just a smooth bulge and if you want to fit a tap you have to cut it out yourself using a small stanley knife. So if you are using the cube for no chilling and don't fit a tap, there's nowhere for nasties to hide.
I did buy a couple of these on special and they had an already-drilled tap hole. I returned them and bought Willows but for another reason, they both had pin holes in the body itself due to faulty mouldings.



I'd avoid this brand personally

 

[Hedgehog]

Are many of you guys fermenting in cubes?

I can only fit one round 30ltr barrel in my fermentation fridge but I can fit two 25ltr cubes nicely.

Is there a problem with a lack of head space in the cubes?

Also, if fermenting in cubes has anyone drilled a hole in the top of the cube and fitted a bung and airlock set up as per the usual fermentation barrel?

I am guessing cleaning wouldn't be too much of a problem if using star-san

 

[manticle]

Unless you're brewing with a krausen monster like 3068, my experience tells me lack of headspace isn't an issue, especially with the aforementioned tighten lid then loosen a touch.

I ferment straight in the no chill cube so I pretty much fill it up with maybe 2 litres headspace once the cube is cool enough to pitch. Sometimes krausen leaks out during active ferment but I just spray it with starsan. It's not a big deal and saves transferring.

You are fermenting on top of your cold break if you use this method- something I have no issue with.

 

[sluggerdog]

Unless you're brewing with a krausen monster like 3068, my experience tells me lack of headspace isn't an issue, especially with the aforementioned tighten lid then loosen a touch.

I ferment straight in the no chill cube so I pretty much fill it up with maybe 2 litres headspace once the cube is cool enough to pitch. Sometimes krausen leaks out during active ferment but I just spray it with starsan. It's not a big deal and saves transferring.

You are fermenting on top of your cold break if you use this method- something I have no issue with.

I want to get a cube to ferment 20 litre batches in, will the 20 litre cubes be able to do this seeing there is still the handle room to allow for the krausen?

Any particular cubes recommend and where do I get them from? (NOTE: Just saw at super cheap auto - 20litre willow cubes for $24)

Thanks

 

[Dazza88]

I think those take 22 litres so you may ok f the situations manticle discussed above.

 

[Dazza88]

Are many of you guys fermenting in cubes?

I can only fit one round 30ltr barrel in my fermentation fridge but I can fit two 25ltr cubes nicely.

Is there a problem with a lack of head space in the cubes?

Also, if fermenting in cubes has anyone drilled a hole in the top of the cube and fitted a bung and airlock set up as per the usual fermentation barrel?


I am guessing cleaning wouldn't be too much of a problem if using star-san

Cleaning can be an issue because you need to rely on the cleaner and shaking to remove the scum ring of krausen. I use pbw soak and shake with success. Napisan would probably work, starsan wont. It is a sanitiser not a cleaner.

 

[manticle]

Sluggerdog- I use the 20 L willow jerries in the main. If I fill to the top part of the straight edge (before the plastic curves towards the lid) then rack that into a fermenter (to measure it) I get about 22-23 litres. There's another litre or two of headspace above that.

NB: The fermenter markings may not be completely accurate as I've yet to calibrate properly. Anyway, last brew I filled my cube to the very top so it was almost leaking out the lid. Certainly there was a bit of krausen leakage but nothing untoward. I've seen scarier krausen try and climb out from a 30 L fermenter covered in glad wrap.

As far as cleaning goes - boiling water (or very hot) and napisan removes krausen scum like magic. Boil up water in your HLT and fill the cube close to the top. Put lid on properly and tightly (make absolutely sure it's on properly) and shake. It will build pressure (which is good) - you can relieve this gently after each shake. To get the scum at the top of the lid, simply upend the cube and leave it upside down. Sparkling clean cube in less than 10 minutes. Reuse the water for cleaning elsewhere and empty onto the garden when done.

Alternatives are to put some raw rice in the cube with napisan and cooler water and shake the crap out of it and/or to soak with napisan and cold water and leave for 24-48 hours. The boiling water trick is far and away the best though.