Fermenter Quality

[flattop]

I mentioned this in a post somewhere but i thought i would post it as a topic.
A quick search didn't reveal much on this so here it goes...

I have 3 fermenters all around the 25-30 liter mark
1 Coopers
2 LHBS supplied (i like to support the LHBS)
3 Bunnings $16 special.

The Coopers is the only one that seals well, the LHBS supplied one seals if you Vaseline the O ring, the Bunnings one leaks like a sieve.
I have managed to get them all closed and all have brews in them (Bunnings is racking)
Today i wanted to add finings to the Bunnings one and found i can't unscrew the damn lid, i wound it up so tight trying to seal it i am going to have a hell of a time opeining it later. (i added the finings through the airlock hole).

So as a spot poll what fermenters do you have and how good are they?

 

[fraser_john]

1 x 50 liter home made stainless steel conical, fantastic
5 x 20 odd liter glass carboys, dangerous when dropped, bumped, looked at sideways
2 x 20 liter cubes from Supercheap Auto, great for cold conditioning as they fit in the fridge good

 

[Fatgodzilla]

So as a spot poll what fermenters do you have and how good are they?

I have six different fermenters, though use only three now (three have become grain storers)

I use a taller 30l model,with the screwtop lid, a 22l model similiar but squater in size and a 22l with push down top.

At the ANHC Better Bottle had a dispaly and my next fermenter will be one of them. A substitute for the glass carboys, when fitted with all the gizmos they will cost just under $200 - xxxy yes, but much cheaper than stainless.

Like the bloke with the small proverbial, it aint the thing, its what you do with it that matters.

 

[flattop]

Yeah it ain't the thing it's what you do with it.... but there's nothing worse than a leak or infection!!!! :lol:

 

[steve.m]

I Have a 95lt plastic drum from the local winery. It seals well because it has a spring loaded lid lock. The winery buy the clearing agent in them. Bloody fantastic for big brews. I have fitted a tap in the middle and one at the bottom. This gives me also sediment free beer in the first two kegs and the tap at the bottom has a small riser to get the trub away from the hole when in drain it. If you know anyone in a winery, they throw these away. I have done double and quad batches in this and both work fine.
Also have three 25lt buckets fromt he bakery shop. They cost about $3 each so I use them for other stuff after a couple of brews.

 

[flattop]

95l thats big enough to bathe in your beer!

 

[Bribie G]

With your LHBS fermenters, have a feel of the lip at the top of the fermenter. Because they are injection moulded in a mould that has two halves you may find a slight ridge or lug, with a similar one at the other side of the fermenter. Shave them off with a Stanley knife or as the Yanks say a 'box cutter'.

Then take the box cutter to the inside of the lip at 45 degrees and shave a strip off all round.

Now if you are using an S shaped airlock you will also find that because it is moulded in two halves it may also have a ridge on the stem on the northside and similar on the southside. Shave off as well.

I don't have any sealing probs although I have bought all my fermenters from the LHBS.

 

[flattop]

Yeah the Bunnings fermenter definitely has two hills two valleys kind of arrangement at the lip, i already thought about shaving it down but no guarantee i will get it any better with my box cutter. I think the LHBS is close to good enough, maybe just a reshape after a soak in hot water.
Both sealed now, i may never open them again but they are sealed!

 

[InCider]

For me, you can't beat Willow jerry cans and the bunnings jerry cans are not too bad either. They seal every time, easy to clean (napisan soak), easy to carry and you can fit heaps of them in the fridge. Much better that barrels - the are for storing grain!

InCider.

 

[oldbugman]

O ring, the Bunnings one leaks like a sieve.
I have managed to get them all closed and all have brews in them (Bunnings is racking)
Today i wanted to add finings to the Bunnings one and found i can't unscrew the damn lid, i wound it up so tight trying to seal it i am going to have a hell of a time opeining it later. (i added the finings through the airlock hole).

Get a old leather belt.
put it around the lid, thread through buckle and pull it back like you are trying to tighten your belt.(ofcourse do it so it is clockwise) it'll open it up.

 

[sponge]

Also have three 25lt buckets from the bakery shop. They cost about $3 each so I use them for other stuff after a couple of brews.

That sounds like an absolute bargain. What did you ask for to get those?

 

[flattop]

Thanks Bugman will do although if i keep drinking beers i will need to find a smaller belt
Looks like i got the only dodgy fermenter in Bunnings....

 

[dicko]

With your LHBS fermenters, have a feel of the lip at the top of the fermenter. Because they are injection moulded in a mould that has two halves you may find a slight ridge or lug, with a similar one at the other side of the fermenter. Shave them off with a Stanley knife or as the Yanks say a 'box cutter'.

Then take the box cutter to the inside of the lip at 45 degrees and shave a strip off all round.

Now if you are using an S shaped airlock you will also find that because it is moulded in two halves it may also have a ridge on the stem on the northside and similar on the southside. Shave off as well.

I don't have any sealing probs although I have bought all my fermenters from the LHBS.

good advice and then use armour - all on the rubbers and you wont have any leaks regardless of the fermenter that you use.

Cheers

 

[dr K]

Do not worry.
You do not have to seal your fermentor, all that sealing your fermentor means is that you have to use an airlock (that you have to make sure is sealed around the tube), and all that an airlock does is make you worried cause there is no sign of airlock activity !!!
Some sort of vinegar fly proof cover is a good idea but beyond that..nada or worse.

K

 

[flattop]

I sort of agree DrK, i get the feeling that as long as it's fermenting the gasses are pushing out and nothing is going in, but i wonder when the fermenting slows if the fermenter wont inhale at some point....

 

[Pollux]

I have two of the coopers 30L jobbies...


Back in my early days (read:foolish) I drilled a hole in the lid of one to allow for a submersible heater to be run, this was pre-AHB and when I read the instructions......24 degrees!!!!!

That one now seals perfectly with a square plastic chopstick jammed into the hole, the airlock has had a little knifework to trim the edges...

Oddly enough, the other one with no drill hole never seems to completely seal to the point it can work the airlock, it will build pressure to the point that the water levels in the S-type airlock are unbalanced, but never a "galomp"....

I blame my rushed work shaving that airlock......

That said, given my favourite and therefore staple kit thus far is the Coopers real ale, which is known for gushing, I might just change both over to a hose in the bottle technique...

 

[matti]

Down sized my brewery last year.
2x25L, 1x30L 2x jerrycan cubes, 2X 15 litre cubes.

The st fermenter is a cooper the rest I have aquired brand new from various sources.

As long as the fermenter is clean it doesn't matter what you use.
matti

 

[buttersd70]

great seal on this fermenter.....
pic

 

[flattop]

OMFG are you doing a lambic?
Looks like crop circle patterns in the surface.... you know that stone age man in the wheat crop thing.
Perhaps it's not aliens, perhaps it's freaky lambic yeast strains making crop circles!

 

[buttersd70]

Thanks to bribie for the pic. That is a Yorkshire Square fermenter. As you can see, the airlock isn't bubbling.

(BTW, all that luverly yeast on top: thats what my current beer looks like, but in a typical lhbs fermenter....that 1469 is a true top cropper )