Fermenter Designs

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Ziege

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For space & security, I've built my entire brewing system into a big, dead twin-door fridge. (power, lights, water, drainage, temp, ventilation, storage)

In an effort to squeeze in even more crap, I'm looking at dumping the standard 30L "barrel" for something a bit more space efficient.
"Short, fat & square" is a good description my requirements (and of me), but "jerry can" shape would do fine.
I've checked out squillions of boxes and bins, but so far nothing pops out as perfect.

I could build something from scratch, if I knew what materials were safe and suitable.
Glass is easy but heavy & fragile.
Fibreglass is easy, but would it be toxic?????
I know squat about plastics.
Stainless is my last resort due to the expense.
Copper (and silver solder) is as expensive as stainless.

Has anyone got any ideas for either pre-made or home-made 30L fermenters?
It MUST fit into a space 420mm x 420mm x whatever.

Ziggy
 
Copper will ruin the beer, if you are using fibreglass for brewing you need to use epoxy resin.
MHB
 
"Short, fat & square" is a good description my requirements (and of me), but "jerry can" shape would do fine.

Then why not use plastic jerry cans? They are usually 30 litres, cheap, easy to move around etc.

I've been using cubes for fermenting recently, they seem fine, I can't see why jerries would be any less suitable.

The lack of a big lid also forces you to use better cleaning techniques and not scrub the interior.
 
Then why not use plastic jerry cans? They are usually 30 litres, cheap, easy to move around etc.

I've been using cubes for fermenting recently, they seem fine, I can't see why jerries would be any less suitable.

The lack of a big lid also forces you to use better cleaning techniques and not scrub the interior.

I'd cut the top off the jerry can to make a bin, but every one I've found (in Aus) has only been 20L.
The cube idea is sounding more attractive. I saw a reasonable one at Bunnings for bugger-all.
I think I've become too choosy in the quest for the ultimate size.

Thanks, MHB, for the tip on copper.
Can anyone confirm that fibreglass/epoxy is kosher?

And as for slate & English ale... I suppose it could warm the beer, but I never thought it'd make it taste like soccer boots. :)
 
I'd cut the top off the jerry can to make a bin, but every one I've found (in Aus) has only been 20L.
The cube idea is sounding more attractive. I saw a reasonable one at Bunnings for bugger-all.
I think I've become too choosy in the quest for the ultimate size.
Big W or Kmart has jerry's of varying capacity(IIRC:5,15 & 20lt) and are very cheap. You could possibly use a couple of 15lt jerries lying down? Or what about a few 10lt white pails? Our local Brumbies/Bakers Delight gave me a couple for free so I could make a mini mash tun.

On a side note - Some lodgers,SWMBO's Swiss cousin, left a load of camping gear with us when he left including a couple of 5lt jerries/water containers. They have the same footprint as a standard jerry but very squat and come with a screw on pouring spout that can easily have a blow off hose fitted. I have recently used them for doing split brews to compare yeast profiles.
 
I don't understand - why on earth would you cut the top off the jerry cans?! All you need to do is bung an airlock in the lid. Cutting the top off would weaken the entire structure and leave you without a handle.

Plastic jerry cans can be bought in places like K-Mart, Supercheap Auto, Ray's Outdoors, camping shops, plastics shops and Bunnings. Steel fuel jerry cans are usually 20L, but the plastic water ones are usually quite a bit larger at 25 or 30 L I think. The other type (water carriers / cubes / square jerries, see pic) can be found in most of the same places, and usually come in 10 / 15 / 20 / 25L sizes.

I'm using 25L cubes, I deliberately sought out ones that weren't pre-punched for taps cos I hate using them and it's just more nooks for bugs. Ray's ones were all punched, Bunnings weren't, about 12 bucks each from memory.

cubes.jpg
 
Doh!... The handle and strength.
I was focussed on the big open top and never considered those.
I suppose I could cut off PART of the top.
The airlock isn't an issue for me, as long as I can bodgey up a lid.

Those square drums look el-supremo, but I'm doing 25 litre batches, so I really need 30 litres (ish) of space.

On another issue...
At the moment, my temp control is two seperate systems (heating & cooling).
Is there such an animal as an off-the-shelf temp "stabiliser"?
A peltier isn't the most efficient, but it's reversible.
With a HIGH and LOW setting, you could set and forget.
 
I just bought a 25L cube from AussieDisposals for $13.95 - it seems really sturdy. They have a bung.

Also they have 30L fermenters - much taller and skinnier than the coopers ones - $19.95.

I may be able to fit 2 into my brew fridge - I'm gonna go home and measure.

I don't use the lids so I won't have to bother with making a hole for the airlock - gladwrap all the way!

Cheers
 
Hi,

my local Bunnings (tassie) has some 30L "Camping Containers" for around the $18 mark. They were down near the Eskys. Large, rectangular, big lid...Have bought one and will buy some more!
 
think i have seen these in sydney also , thought they were only 25 litre though , but i could be wrong
 
MHB


Please explain why copper will ruin beer...?


Just curious....
 
My brewery is copper HLT and boiler and the fact that it goes "bright" after a boilup means that I'm drinking something strange but my beer tastes good and my arthritis has gone.
 
MHB
Please explain why copper will ruin beer...?
Just curious....


from what I can recall, Cu is OK to use in HLT/boiler - some Cu will be picked up, and can help the yeast a little as a micronutrient.

Fermenting in Copper however, as the wert is acidic it will dissolve higher levels of copper into solution which can be toxic to the yeasties, and (if present in high enough concentrations) people.


It is mentioned here as a side note that it can also be responsible for haze production.
http://probrewer.com/resources/library/sie...eeranalysis.php
 

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