Female 240v outlets?

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Tex083

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Hi guys I remember somewhere someone posted a link to eBay showing a bulk lot of 10 female 240v 3 pin connectors I need to build 3 stc1000's so @ 7ea from Jaycar it's getting expensive! I don't want to use extension cords as it looks shit and I'm giving one to my boss.
Anyone with a solution, I would love to hear it!
 
How about buying a simple kettle input (aka computer power supply 3 pin from jcar) and using spare computer / kettle cords?

My whole brewery uses them....
 
With you on that one.

If you want decent ones, go for Clipsal or HPM products. There is no point in saving a few $$$.

Elements run high current and those flimsy powerboards melt
 
Might find some inspiration in the clipsal catalogue.

http://updates.clipsal.com/clipsalonline/Files/Brochures/A0000123.pdf


Also dimmers in the entertainment industry use the round panel mount sockets pictured below, they are pretty sturdy, get plugged in and out regularly.
Clipsal Part P415M

48DCF3E1A3CF2BD27FD344106A614DBAD41001.jpg
 
QldKev said:
I got some of these, no way would I put 10amp through them. I ended up chucking them in the bin.
Thanks Kev they are the ones I was looking for, why didn't I think of searching for "receptacle" here I was thinking "female" was the correct term.
Thanks for the feedback on the poor quality. Jaycar has some that are $7 I will just but a few of them, got to get the jiffy box from there anyway.
 
If you switch the outlets at all you need to use double pole switches for obvious safety reasons.
 
Another point. These style of controllers are designed to be hard wired. They only have a single pole relay in them. If you are fitting a lead and 3 pin plug, they aren't legal and there is a safety issue. Example. You make one up with a 3 pin plug on it. You do everything perfect. You give it to a friend. They plug it into an extension lead that has reverse polarity. Their 240 volt fridge or heater doesn't work. They decide to have a look. Because the controller has cut they don't think to unplug it. There is still 240 volts to earth on the outputs. They die. You go to jail. I doubt they allow home brewing in jail so there goes your hobby.
Example two. You fit a single power point for the output. It has a standard single pole switch. The unit is plugged into a reverse polarity lead or someone has refitted the plug top incorrectly. Unit works fine. Someone switches off the power point to clean the fridge. Water gets where it shouldn't and they get killed. They thought it was off.
 
Glot said:
If you switch the outlets at all you need to use double pole switches for obvious safety reasons.

Glot said:
Another point. These style of controllers are designed to be hard wired. They only have a single pole relay in them. If you are fitting a lead and 3 pin plug, they aren't legal and there is a safety issue. Example. You make one up with a 3 pin plug on it. You do everything perfect. You give it to a friend. They plug it into an extension lead that has reverse polarity. Their 240 volt fridge or heater doesn't work. They decide to have a look. Because the controller has cut they don't think to unplug it. There is still 240 volts to earth on the outputs. They die. You go to jail. I doubt they allow home brewing in jail so there goes your hobby.
Example two. You fit a single power point for the output. It has a standard single pole switch. The unit is plugged into a reverse polarity lead or someone has refitted the plug top incorrectly. Unit works fine. Someone switches off the power point to clean the fridge. Water gets where it shouldn't and they get killed. They thought it was off.
You have provided some good warnings there Glot...well done
 
Interesting warning ... hadn't really thought about his before.

Glot said:
Another point. These style of controllers are designed to be hard wired. They only have a single pole relay in them. If you are fitting a lead and 3 pin plug, they aren't legal and there is a safety issue.
By "controllers" are you referring to STC-1000 type controllers?

Glot said:
Example. You make one up with a 3 pin plug on it. You do everything perfect. You give it to a friend. They plug it into an extension lead that has reverse polarity. Their 240 volt fridge or heater doesn't work. They decide to have a look. Because the controller has cut they don't think to unplug it. There is still 240 volts to earth on the outputs. They die. You go to jail. I doubt they allow home brewing in jail so there goes your hobby.
What do you mean by "cut" ?

Assuming we're talking about STC type controllers and by "cut" meaning the STC has turned off power to the fridge ... even if you put in a double pole switch on the outlet for the fridge and someone plugs a reverse polarity extension cord into it, they can still be "unwise enough" to think "Hey, the controller has cut so I won't bother switching the fridge outlet off but I'll have a look anyway".

So the problem can still occur even with a double pole switch and problem is with the reverse polarity extension cord and not bothering to switch off or unplug from the controller?
 
Hi guys

Old UPS have a bunch of the IEC style sockets and plugs on the back if you can be bothered pulling them apart.

I agree with double pole switching but i see dozens of single pole devices in my work.

I would recommend earth leakage breakers on every circuit in your house and garage.

Not currently required on light circuits AFAIK but I found active neutral swap in my house less than a week ago.

I have tripped ELCBs without feeling a thing due to faulty products. We test our IEC leads at work and occasionally find one with a fault.

I would buy the new ones from Jaycar . You already save brewing yourself.....

James.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 
I noticed WES have some of these panel mount female 240V outlets now, were about $3 trade price, copies of the Clipsal ones.
 
I use these, which I'm sure are the ones you're referring to Tex - http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PS4094&form=CAT2&SUBCATID=1001#12. $8. They're neat, simple to install, and to be honest I forgot about the price years later.

Glot raises some valid points. Does this imply Glot that these STC-1000 units are 'designed' to operate a relay? They're 10A rated which is a pretty neat number for the Aus market. Sounds to me like these things - legally at least - shouldn't be sold in this country because they really are designed to do what you're saying they shouldn't (i.e. single pole switching for 240V 10A appliances). Careful wiring in the first place will eliminate the risk at the time but doesn't protect someone later if they decide to tinker.

I've been unfortunate enough to be on the live end of mixed wiring, and there was no RCBO to help me. I don't recommend a 240V zap to anyone.
 
Yep ended going with new leads and the Jaycar female sockets. They are a good quality unit.
Interesting point about the DPDT switch might put that in the next one.
 
I'm not sure requiring to provide electrical separation of both poles is a requirement in Australian houses. Recreational vehicles/caravans do require this. Even in your house fuse box you will find most houses have circuit breakers that only switch the active. Check with your electrician to check their AS/NZS 3000:2007 before they wire it up for you.
 
QldKev said:
I'm not sure requiring to provide electrical separation of both poles is a requirement in Australian houses.
It isn't, and there should be an M E N point at the main board.
Glot said:
These style of controllers are designed to be hard wired.
I'm dubious about that. If its hard wired it's bolted to the wall and connected to the board. If you mean it should be fitted in the fridge itself then it would be no different in the case you described. If there was a faulty ext cord some idiot might still pull it apart and put his tongue in there anyway, not my responsibility. You can wire an approved device in its own box as long as design rules are met. No different to buying an electrical transformer and fitting it inside a box with a rect and reg to make a power supply.
 
@OP suck it up and pay the extra for the calipisal or HPM, its not worth the soccet falling appart as i have seen cheap ones do.

Glot said:
Another point. These style of controllers are designed to be hard wired. They only have a single pole relay in them. If you are fitting a lead and 3 pin plug, they aren't legal and there is a safety issue. Example. You make one up with a 3 pin plug on it. You do everything perfect. You give it to a friend. They plug it into an extension lead that has reverse polarity. Their 240 volt fridge or heater doesn't work. They decide to have a look. Because the controller has cut they don't think to unplug it. There is still 240 volts to earth on the outputs. They die. You go to jail. I doubt they allow home brewing in jail so there goes your hobby.
Example two. You fit a single power point for the output. It has a standard single pole switch. The unit is plugged into a reverse polarity lead or someone has refitted the plug top incorrectly. Unit works fine. Someone switches off the power point to clean the fridge. Water gets where it shouldn't and they get killed. They thought it was off.

Please state your source, i believe you are incorrect for domestic internal application.

AS/NZS 3000:2007 4.4.4.1 states that "each socket outlet shall be individually controlled by a seperate switch" " andoperates is all ACTIVE conductors".


The situation mentioned above if wired correctly so that you are switching the active it is not possible to get zapped as the active has already been swithed off.
Eaven if the polarity of you lead is reversed that wont magicly turn the dead active on.

Eaven of you magicly had a high potential on the neutral (men not installed) you should ALWAYS UNPLUG APPLIANCES BEFORE TINKERING WITH THEM (not yelling at anyone speciffic just catching peoples attention).


QldKev said:
I'm not sure requiring to provide electrical separation of both poles is a requirement in Australian houses. Recreational vehicles/caravans do require this. Even in your house fuse box you will find most houses have circuit breakers that only switch the active. Check with your electrician to check their AS/NZS 3000:2007 before they wire it up for you.
Correct.
 

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