False Bottom

[Sloth]

morning all,

recently been pondering whether to go with a rectangular or cylindrical esky as a mash tun. I think i prefer the cylindrical coolers due to efficiency and space issues.

My main concern is the fitting of a false bottom into the cooler. Im not sure as to size the false bottom for the esky. Ie, if i go out an buy a cylindrical esky (approx 36L), how do I know what size false bottom would i require? Do i take a measurement of the inside diameter of the cooler and size a false bottom according to this (I think Grain and Grape have 9, 10 and 12inch s/s false bottoms)

I understand that the false bottom should fit neatly into the cooler with no gaps around the edges. Does this mean that cyclindrical coolers are built with a radius of 9, 10 or 12 inches?? What happens if there is a cooler with a diameter of 11inches or does this not occur?

This link (http://www.grainandgrape.com.au/brewingsystems_info.htm) shows the false bottoms (s/s) stocked by G&G. In the image shown they appear to be convex in shape with the elbow on top. I assume this is the desired orientation and that the liquid is then drawn from the space directly underneath the false bottom. how much space is left and the false bottom or is it sitting on the base of the cooler??

I dont know if i am looking to deeply at this but i am not sure how the false bottom fits exactly into a cylindical cooler. If somebody could post some pics on this it would be much appreciated as i have having difficulty visualising it. Picture would probably help oter out there who are also lloking at going all grain but are slightly confused.

Cheer, Sloth.

Sorry about the length, there may be those out there who have had a few too many to read this....

 

[beers]

Do i take a measurement of the inside diameter of the cooler and size a false bottom according to this (I think Grain and Grape have 9, 10 and 12inch s/s false bottoms)

I understand that the false bottom should fit neatly into the cooler with no gaps around the edges. Does this mean that cyclindrical coolers are built with a radius of 9, 10 or 12 inches?? What happens if there is a cooler with a diameter of 11inches or does this not occur?

[post="124830"][/post]​

Sloth I use one of the phils phalse bottoms, which looks to be similar to the SS option (SS is probably a better option IMO.. my plastic one floats & i have to weigh it down), & I mash in an insulated 20L bucket. I was unsure about what size to go with when I bought mine so I went for the smaller option (9" from memory - i cant check that for you at the moment as its sitting under a mash) theyre convex so IMO you just want something that sits nice & flat on the bottom of the tun rather than something that fits snuggly around the sides.

 

[Sloth]

cheers beers,

so in other words the false bottom does in fact sit on the bottom of the cooler?

Isnt there a need for a small amount of space under the entire false bottom in order for the liquid to flow through and be collected??

Cheers, Sloth.

 

[beers]

cheers beers,

so in other words the false bottom does in fact sit on the bottom of the cooler?

Isnt there a need for a small amount of space under the entire false bottom in order for the liquid to flow through and be collected??

Cheers, Sloth.

[post="124833"][/post]​

Yeah theyre convex. the outside edges sit on the bottom & the centre is raised where the pick up tube comes through. hope this dodgy pic helps.

View attachment falsey.bmp

 

[Sloth]

THanks again beers,

That picture confirmed everything. With the false bottom reaches the outer edges as mush as possible will improve efficiency in sparging.

Im a bit busy at the moment but i hope to get all the equipment together soon.

Sloth.

 

[Busboy]

Thanks Sloth for asking these questions as I was wondering about false bottoms myself. And thanks Beers for clearing it up. I had somehow imagined that the false bottom sat the other way up, with the pick-up tube underneath. Now that I think of it, that would have made the false bottom very unstable. Makes much more sense now. I hope to buy a false bottom soon and from reading various postings, I think S/S is the way to go. Cheers!

 

[Barry]

Good Day Sloth
ESB at Peakhurst sells SS false bottoms if you want to have a look.

 

[T.D.]

Unless you use a "KeepCold" brand cylindrical cooler (which has an outlet housing that protrudes into the cooler from the wall, meaning you can't use a perfectly circular false bottom), I would buy a Grain and Grape false bottom. They are around $40 compared to over $100 for the ESB version last time I checked. The ESB false bottom is custom made for the KeepCold cooler.

My advice would be to look out for a Rubbermaide cooler (Gatoraide) which you sometimes see on ebay and then get the appropriate G&G stainless false bottom (12" I think...).

The KeepCold coolers are more common (especially brand new) and if you look around you can get them for around $80, but if you want a false bottom that fits snug the ESB version is about the only option short of making one yourself.

 

[TasChris]

Hi Sloth,
I have just gone through fitting out a Keep Cold cooler with a false bottom. I got a 12 inch FB from G and G and found that it didn't fit due to the stepped out piece at the bottom of the cooler.
All i did was grind it back till it was about 11 inch in diam so it would fit, in orther words buy the 10 or 11 inch FB if you intend using a Keep Cold Cooler. Grinding Stainless Steel is a slow and painful exercise!!
Chris

 

[Batz]

Hi Sloth,
I have just gone through fitting out a Keep Cold cooler with a false bottom. I got a 12 inch FB from G and G and found that it didn't fit due to the stepped out piece at the bottom of the cooler.
All i did was grind it back till it was about 11 inch in diam so it would fit, in orther words buy the 10 or 11 inch FB if you intend using a Keep Cold Cooler. Grinding Stainless Steel is a slow and painful exercise!!
Chris

[post="125014"][/post]​

Or use a braid manifold instead

Batz

 

[Stuster]

I second Batz's idea. Use a stainless braid ($10) and a square esky ($40+). Save yourself a heap of cash and buy more hops, grain and yeast instead.

 

[warrenlw63]

Sloth.

I used a 10 U.S. gallon Igloo (38 litre). I also use a a G&G SS FB. You will need a 12 inch. It fits quite neatly on the bottom. It's a bonus if you can secure it with a copper pipe. This will eliminate any movement.

Warren -

 

[redmond]

Sloth,

I have a Keep cold brand 36L esky and I used an old fermenter that fit snuggly inside. I cut the top off so I could safely close the lid on top and drilled lots of tiny holes in the bottom. This was my quick and easy solution as I only started mashing 6mths ago. Works great.

Red.

 

[Sloth]

Thanks for all the advice guys,

I had seen the ESB website and the cost of the FB but couldn't work out why they are so expensive and apparently re-worked for the esky they use. If you guys hadnt pointed that one out I may have learnt the hard way. I suggest you all have a beer on me! :beer:

And thanks warrenlw63 for the pick. One question though, where did you get the 10 gallon Igloo from? Unfortunately I haven't had the chance to get out and about to look for some cylindrical eskies so I have mainly been going off advice and the Internet.

I think i will try to avoid the KeepCold to save me some messin around (and $$) but if i cant find anything else...

I have pondered the idea of a rectangular esky and manifold, but ultimately I would want the extra efficiency and end up using a cyclindrical esky so i figure I might as well start with it...

Anyway, thanks for all the help guys, keep it up!

Cheers, Sloth.

 

[Ross]

I have pondered the idea of a rectangular esky and manifold, but ultimately I would want the extra efficiency and end up using a cyclindrical esky so i figure I might as well start with it...

[post="126108"][/post]​

Sloth,

Are you intending to fly or batch sparge? If batch sparging, the esky shape & the type of manifold will make zero difference to your efficiency.
Without getting into an off subject debate, I really can't see why any new AG brewer would want to fly sparge h34r: .

Cheers Ross

 

[Duff]

Without getting into an off subject debate, I really can't see why any new AG brewer would want to fly sparge h34r: .

Cheers Ross

[post="126111"][/post]​

You're not a real brewer unless you fly sparge :lol:

 

[Sloth]

Hey Ross,

I understand that there is no difference in efficiency with batch sparging, and i did intend to fly sparge. I understand that fly sparging is more difficult but i dont see why a new AG wouldn't want to fly sparge :blink:

I dont mean to start a debate over the issue, im just interested. i figure if thats how i will probably end up doing it, I might as well start as such. But then again I may have miss understood something....

Cheers, Sloth.

 

[Ross]

Hey Ross,

I understand that there is no difference in efficiency with batch sparging, and i did intend to fly sparge. I understand that fly sparging is more difficult but i dont see why a new AG wouldn't want to fly sparge :blink:

I dont mean to start a debate over the issue, im just interested. i figure if thats how i will probably end up doing it, I might as well start as such. But then again I may have miss understood something....

Cheers, Sloth.

[post="126115"][/post]​

Nothing wrong with fly sparging if your main interest is the dollar.
But for time & beer quality, I'd pick batch sparging every time.
For reasons read here

Cheers Ross

 

[Sloth]

Thanks Ross.

I had never really considered what fly sparging would be doing in terms of extraction and the overall quality of beer. It seems i may need to reconsider my options.

Aside: Cheers to Ross!!! He first helped me out on the Grumpy's site and is always willing to give advice. I wish Ross best of luck with the business and i look forward to making a large number of purchases with him in the future. :beer:

Cheers, Sloth.