Mr. No-Tip
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I suppose all three ways involve cloudy protein laden liquids, but half of them also involve yeasts, and this is one of them.
TL;DR version: Brewing my hefeweizen off a single mash and boil but splitting it onto three yeasts: WLP300, WB-06 and Danstar Munich. Let's see how they effect the end product.
Long version: I brew a pretty mean Hefeweizen. I've been lucky enough to take out the AABC number one wheat beer for the last two years - clearly on point for style guidelines - but I am interested to know why - what makes a hefeweizen true to style?
Some vital statistics about how I brew my hef:
I've recently been thinking that those three things are hard to achieve for everyone. A lot of homebrewers can't step mash. From what I understand a lot of pro breweries don't have step mashing either, no active heating on fermenters, and liquid yeasts can be cost prohibitive at those scales. I also wonder if this could be a factor in the lack of really remarkable Australian Hefs. I am interested to see if we can brew a hef just as good taking any one of these elements out and in doing so determine which are essential.
So, let's start with the yeast. Today I brewed a double batch and pitched ~17l into three fermenters. One will receive WLP300, one Danstar Munich, and one Fermentis WB-06. They will all be treated the same from here.
I normally brew my hef for comp in late winter, so today's weather has already introduced some changes to the standard:
So I expect visible fermentation to start on the WLP300 in a day or so, and probably the dry ones too, though I've never used them before. I will post back here if they differ during ferment or if there's anything else to say.
The bottled product I intend to hand out to a few folks around town for a blind tasting.
Let's see what we can taste...Anyone else tried something like this before?
TL;DR version: Brewing my hefeweizen off a single mash and boil but splitting it onto three yeasts: WLP300, WB-06 and Danstar Munich. Let's see how they effect the end product.
Long version: I brew a pretty mean Hefeweizen. I've been lucky enough to take out the AABC number one wheat beer for the last two years - clearly on point for style guidelines - but I am interested to know why - what makes a hefeweizen true to style?
Some vital statistics about how I brew my hef:
- 49% Wheat, 44% pils, 4% Carapils, 3% Munich 1.
- Tettnanger, Saaz, or Hallertauer to ~12 IBU.
- Mash in at 38, 40m@45, 20m@52, 60m@63, 15m@71, 10m@77.
- Pitch WLP300. Never use a starter, often use a just in date vial. Underpitch to get the esters pumping.
- I oxygenate, but I don't feel this is a big factor in the end product. Maybe it would be even better without oxy..
- Pitch at 13 degrees, 'buffer' the temp controller and let it rise to 18.5 over a few days. Often add some heat to get it going up form 14 when I feel like it's going nowhere and freak out. End game here is more stress, but to a banana/clov balanced outcome - I reckon a good hef should have the two in balance to the point that you struggle to pick either independently.
- I generally bottle condition, as I believe the refermentation adds a certain something something. This experiment will be both kegged and bottled.
- the step mash
- the step fermentation
- the WLP300.
I've recently been thinking that those three things are hard to achieve for everyone. A lot of homebrewers can't step mash. From what I understand a lot of pro breweries don't have step mashing either, no active heating on fermenters, and liquid yeasts can be cost prohibitive at those scales. I also wonder if this could be a factor in the lack of really remarkable Australian Hefs. I am interested to see if we can brew a hef just as good taking any one of these elements out and in doing so determine which are essential.
So, let's start with the yeast. Today I brewed a double batch and pitched ~17l into three fermenters. One will receive WLP300, one Danstar Munich, and one Fermentis WB-06. They will all be treated the same from here.
I normally brew my hef for comp in late winter, so today's weather has already introduced some changes to the standard:
- I really struggled to get to 13. In fact, I had my plate chiller in ice water (a new thing I tried to do today that seemed to do both jack and shit) but I could not get it below 21. The batches sat unpitched in the fridge for a couple hours. I've done this before, but not with this beer.
- The ambient temperatures. The natural ramp seems to be happening a little faster than I'd like. I am going to not buffer as willingly as I do in winter.
- The fermenter geometry is slightly different. I have the WB06 and the WLP300 in identical fermenters, but the Munich is in a slightly shorter, fatter one. Ces la vis.
So I expect visible fermentation to start on the WLP300 in a day or so, and probably the dry ones too, though I've never used them before. I will post back here if they differ during ferment or if there's anything else to say.
The bottled product I intend to hand out to a few folks around town for a blind tasting.
Let's see what we can taste...Anyone else tried something like this before?