Esky Conversion to Mash Tun Help

[lswhi3]

Hey guys,

So I just purchased an Esky for $6 off gumtree, and its only been used once, so I'm gonna convert it into a mash tun!

It's a 36L, and I've been told i need to get certain measurements of things from Bunnings to get the process going.
I'm using the method explained in this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ftY_HZAFJFc

Now, my question is, with the little drainage hole on the esky, are all of the holes on eskies the same size? Or do you have to adjust the part sizes according to the size of the esky hole.

The esky is an "Esky Hamper", but all the vids are made in America and use Walmart's Coleman Xtreme esky.

Anyway, am gonna go get the parts in about an hour, so any quick suggestions would be awesome! I don't have a measuring device, so I'm kinda looking for an expert on eskies. This might be a very pointless post ha.

Cheers guys!

 

[Ducatiboy stu]

Go false bottom if you can. Manifolds & braid suck balls.

All you really need for an outlet is some 3/4 or 1" external thread tube and 2 flat nuts to suit and a spacer that slips over the threaded tube to go between the inner & outer walls of esky. Hen just screw on a tap to the tube

 

[JDW81]

False bottom if you can, or manifold to the specs in how to brew (in one of the appendices i believe) if a falsie is too hard to come by.

I'd take it into bunnings or a plumbing store just to make sure all of your hardware fits. Taking stuff back is a pain in the ass.

JD

 

[spog]

As Dboy Stu suggested 2 x flanged nuts and matching threaded tube,also grab a silicone baking mat from the cheap shop and make your own washers to suit.
Similar parts can be found that are used in toilet cisterns and are made of plastic I would not use them as I seriously doubt they would handle the heat from the brewing process.
Cheers....spog...

 

[Mardoo]

What kind of false bottoms are folks using in their Eskytuns (that's an inordinately stupid Eskimo joke BTW)? I've been thinking of having a rectangular one made up, but that looks to be getting kind of pricey. I like the look of the Beerbelly one but it too is a bit pricey.

 

[pk.sax]

You could obviously get the smaller (9"?) domed false bottom as well.

 

[Ducatiboy stu]

I just went to my local sheet metal place and asked what sort of perforated sheet they had.

 

[Red Baron]

What kind of false bottoms are folks using in their Eskytuns (that's an inordinately stupid Eskimo joke BTW)? I've been thinking of having a rectangular one made up, but that looks to be getting kind of pricey. I like the look of the Beerbelly one but it too is a bit pricey.

I have the Beerbelly one. It's very good (I've not had a stuck sparge yet), but it leaves a bit too much dead space in the bottom of my 56L IceKool esky (about 2-2.5L). The pickup is in the centre of the false bottom, so tilting the esky doesn't help....

Cheers,
RB

 

[Kodos]

I've been using a stainless steel braid for years and it's been fine. If it's what you're comfortable with making, go for it.

Can't help with esky hole sizes etc though, sorry. I think many brewers drill a new hole through the side of the esky anyway.

 

[Ducatiboy stu]

I just used the original drain hole and drilled it out.

 

[Kiwifirst]

I wouldn't say all manifolds suck balls. My home made manifold drains the wort out of my esky no problem at all.
It was a pain in The arse cutting all the slots in it, but in convinced my Father in law to do that. Works a treat.

 

[manticle]

My manifold is super.

I drilled a hole and fit the appropriate thread in both eskies I've converted. Only one had a drain hole which I left as it was. Make sure you clean it properly between brews.

 

[lswhi3]

I'm going to use some food grade silicon to seal up my hole against the plastic tubing. It only withstands temps of no higher than 70C. Reckon that's all good? I dont have access to a drill so its too hard for me to fit in a a brass thread..

 

[lswhi3]

I'm gonna seal it from the outside

 

[manticle]

I guess try it out although I'm not confident you'll be able to fit a bulkhead through the existing thread.

If you have no luck, give us a hoi and I might be able to help.

 

[lswhi3]

Not using the existing thread, I'm going with a design that is pretty similar to this... http://www.donosborn.com/homebrew/mashtun.htm
reckon that's alright?

 

[manticle]

If it worked for them, it should work for you. Offer stands if it doesn't.

I would go silicon tube rather than the plastic though - my manifold is connected to the bulkhead t-piece with silicon tube and it holds extremely tightly and well. Also guaranteed flavourless and heat rated.

 

[Ducatiboy stu]

Although I am not a fan of manifolds or braid ( simply cause I built a few, they gave me the *****...etc..etc..).....if you use the threaded tube and flange nuts as posted by spog, you can screw on a ready made braided hose. You will need to cut off one end and remove the inner tube leaving the braid and fitting. Makes life a lot easier

 

[lswhi3]

So I'm having trouble with it. I'm using the method in the link below However, have placed a 12 gauge wire twisted into a spring through the toilet pipe to keep it from collapsing. However, I cant get the plastic tubing through the spigot, so I've just had to push it through the hole and attach the original nut and rubber washer to the pipe and esky via silicon on the outside. Silicon is industrial grade, picked up the wrong silicon by accident, but i can't find anything about toxicity with ingestion, and even then i hardly think it would be enough to be a problem. However, the silicon isnt doing the job. What do you guys think of switching to super glue? Apparently small amounts aren't bad either, and super glue is ridiculously similar to what surgeons use. I've bound cuts up using super glue instead of going to the doctors. So I don't think it would be a problem. Thoughts?

 

[lswhi3]

http://www.donosborn.com/homebrew/mashtun.htm