Element Problems

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Back Yard Brewer

I HAVE A WIFE THAT UNDERSTANDS
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Picked up my new 3.6kw element today. Everything went fine except...... as you will see in the pictures part of the element is /will be touching the socket :angry: something I never thought of. Does anyone think this will b e an issue? I have enough flex that I could actually tie a bit of wire to hold the two together.

s.JPG


d.JPG


a.JPG
 
Looks a bit tight.
These are a 'bit' flexible. You may get away with screwing it all the way in to end location and splaying the end away from the screw fitting.
Be carful not to go too far though.
You dont want it touching the steel. Thats bad.

Hope this helps, cheers
 
It should be fine to have it touching the socket, as there should be plenty of wort around it to distribute the heat. You may be able to reshape the element slightly so that it sits freely, but if you introduce stress fractures into the sheath when doing this it will be buggered - create a slight leakage to earth, probably trip the RCD (assuming you've got one fitted, which you absolutely should). Personally, I'd just leave it as is, since the base of the element is brass and shouldn't be hurt by a bit of excess heat.
 
I agree it should not be a safety or heat problem.
Your problem may be scorching of hop material if it gets caught between the socket and the fitting, but I would establish if this does actually eventuate before bending it at all.
 
Not a problem at all,start brewing and stop worrying :lol:
 
As an aside, I can't see anywhere in your photos for an earth attachment to your kettle. You need to make sure that, however you do it, there is a solid connection from the earth wire of your power supply to the kettle (and anything else in your brewery which is connected to mains and has a metal chassis, or metal parts which protrude through a plastic enclosure). When an element fails it will usually go open circuit, but in some cases it can short itself to the sheath. In this case, if the chassis is earthed it will just blow the fuse or trip the breaker, and not work again until you replace the element. But if there's no earth, all it does is make the kettle/chassis live, at close to 240V (depending on how far down the element the short occurs). Next time you touch it, probably barefoot on the ground, in a puddle of wort, or with some other path to ground, you get zapped.

To earth it, there's a few creative ways you can go about it. Ideally I'd say weld (or have welded, depending on how you got your socket done) a bit of thread onto the kettle beside the socket, crimp a ring terminal of the same size onto the earth wire, and fasten it to that thread with a nut, covering the whole thing in some sort of plastic junction box. You might also consider using a much larger ring terminal, and putting it around the element thread between it and the socket, though I don't know where you'd get a ring crimp of that size. Have a fiddle with it and work out the best way to attach it, and then keep all your connections neatly insulated. You might be able to glean some ideas from looking at your water heater, and maybe scrounge appropriate parts from one discarded on council cleanup day.
 
Id just cut some length off the socket if it was mine.
 
I thought that too. Problem is, the time to do that would've been before it was welded on, and weld it on the cut side. If he did it now, the thread would be buggered, and I can't see a similar trick to "screw down nut, cut bolt, screw off nut" like you would do if cutting down a bolt.
 
The element is for the HLT. I thought about cutting the socket shorter but I would need to be spot on level. I still need to have a flat surface for the sealing washer to sit on.

The elemet has a screw on the base where the earth connects to.

Yes I do have an RCD in the shed.

BYB
 
If you do plan on bending the element, can you heat it prior so it becomes more malleable?

I know I was looking at custom elements a while ago, and some kinds are able to be bent into prettmy much any shape you like. However your element in question has no doubt been manufactured with a different material type.

I would hate to see you try to bend it and then have it fracture!

Or make a bigger HLT for accomodate the element! :p
 
I reckon with a thread as course as that you would have to really butcher it when cutting to cause a drama.
 
If you do plan on bending the element, can you heat it prior so it becomes more malleable?



At $85 to replace it I don't think (well in my situation) I will be trying to bend it. I would absolutely spit chips if things went pear shaped.


BYB
 
You could grind the weld off cut the socket in half and re-weld it. I found with mine I needed to cut the socket in half as the element only had a short thread.


cheers.
 
Cut it off Andy, won't be that difficult to square it up again. You might also need a square mounting plate (collar) tacked to the socket about 5mm down from the end to mount a junction box to cover the electrical connections and attach an earth.

Like So:
HLT_Elements_2006_0013.jpg

Cheers,

Screwy
 
Should be easy to cut square. If its not 100% you could always use thread tape instead of a washer? no need to worry then.
 
I reckon it would be a bugger to cut square, I think your best chance would be to start off by scribing a fine line to cut to, then instead of trying to cut through in one hit, make a series of cuts all the way around it making sure you are keeping the blade on the correct plane the whole time. You should then be able to finish it off with a file or 4" grinder.

cheers

Browndog
 
Cut it off Andy, won't be that difficult to square it up again. You might also need a square mounting plate (collar) tacked to the socket about 5mm down from the end to mount a junction box to cover the electrical connections and attach an earth.

Like So:
View attachment 24719

Cheers,

Screwy


Got a mounting plate to go on. Not to keen at trying my hand at cutting it shorter. Could create a can of worms that I don't really want. My main concern is if I left it as it is will it do any harm. I'm hoping not. I have enough flex that I could tie a small peice of TIG wire to pull the two lengths together. May even grind some of the thread out on the inside.

BYB
 
Why not just cut a relief on the inside where the element touches the socket, just mark the socket with a marker then use a file/die grinder/angle grinder to make the relief
 
Picked up my new 3.6kw element today. Everything went fine except...... as you will see in the pictures part of the element is /will be touching the socket :angry: something I never thought of. Does anyone think this will b e an issue? I have enough flex that I could actually tie a bit of wire to hold the two together.

gday BYB,

shouldn't be a problem to cut it, wrap a bit of emery cloth around the socket to get a straight line, mark it and cut it using a 1mm cutting wheel, finish off the sharp edges with a flap wheel and the thread with a small half round file.
hope it works out for you

slightly :icon_offtopic: , could you post up where you purchased the element please ?

cheers
Yard
 
Yardy, Stokes are the go, they have every kind of element you could imagine.
Stokes catalogues There is also another mob in Brisbane called Helios, but they do not carry a large range of water heating elements.

cheers

Browndog
 
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