E-herms Power Requirements Question

[gava]

just a little update, Found out we have 3 phase and 32AMPs per phase.. would this be suitable to run a house (we dont have LPG) and a E-HERMS brewery?

 

[JonnyAnchovy]

no meaningful input, just came here to comment how cool it is that you're planning your next house around your brewery.

 

[gava]

Started to plan out my new rig for the house.. (got the quote for the house the other day, this brew rig might take longer than first thought)

anyway I know how much people like pretty pictures so here's some..

I wanted to get everything to scale so I could plan it all out so I started to create some models of generic brewing parts. heres my rig to scale (well close to)

- This is the front view of it so far (no HERMS pot yet) but i have my three 70lt pots and ball valves.. You can see the march pump down the bottm and the plate chiller to the right..

- Sice I have a bad back I wanted a nice tippy function so I can tip out the grain instead of lifting the pot. at the moment this tips and all the grain will hit the front rail, I will be tweaking the design.

Shot of the under side of the tipper.

- The plan is to have a tank on the other side of my brewery wall and have the plate chiller use the tank water. It shows it going straight to the plate chiller on this but after some looking around I might use my HERMS pot with ice water in to prechill then go into the plate chiller.

5000lt tank on other side of wall.

-The frame and the MLT in the middle, used to show my welder mate to see if this is suitable.

Any input to this design would be great! If anyone wants my maya model files of ball valves, march pump, female camlocks, ss compression fittings and some garden hose fittings they're welcome to them. Im not a 3d modler by trade so their not the greated models but they work.

 

[sinkas]

which lucky shareholders, or ratepayers are paying for these lovelely pictures to be drawn?

 

[gava]

What you mean? I did at home the other night.

 

[raven19]

Those screen shots are just Brilliant!

Looks like you have thought on most things upon first glance. I have nothing to add at this stage, just love the rendering on the graphics!

 

[husky]

Nice work, I have recently done almost the exact same thing in solidworks. Three 70L pots as well. Only difference is I have round bar welded directly to the MT instead of the clamping holder type arrangment you have shown.

 

[gava]

I was going to use Solidworks but my copy didn't work on WindowsXP64bit.. so went back to maya...

Directly welding the pot is a good and simple idea..

 

[husky]

I was going to use Solidworks but my copy didn't work on WindowsXP64bit.. so went back to maya...

Directly welding the pot is a good and simple idea..

Much easier as long as theres some meat to the pot and not a .5mm chinese job. I had one fabricated out of 2mm 316 S/S so a couple of lugs will be easier that mucking around trying to make up the basket type arrangment.
Your valve and pump models would have saved me some time but I just opened solidworks and it soesn't appear to open maya files. Ah well.

 

[Supra-Jim]

Looking really nice there Gava,

You could get around the interference of the mash tun (when tipping) on the front rail, by having the mash tun supports on a sliding rail/bearings. A simple pin could be used to lock it in place.

Cheers SJ

 

[gava]

Your valve and pump models would have saved me some time but I just opened solidworks and it soesn't appear to open maya files. Ah well.

Looks like i can export as IGES and you can import into solidworks.. Not sure how much cleanup you'd have to do but I can export them tonight when I get home and send them to you.. See how it goes.

 

[Supra-Jim]

IGES files work ok in SolidWorks, you can use feature recognition to rebuild them properly and that makes them easier to work with.

Cheers SJ

 

[crozdog]

Looking really nice there Gava,

You could get around the interference of the mash tun (when tipping) on the front rail, by having the mash tun supports on a sliding rail/bearings. A simple pin could be used to lock it in place.

Cheers SJ

My first comment was going to be about the tipping MT being really close to the front of the stand which would be a pain whth putting a bin underneath.

SJ's great idea would overcome that.

Second thought is there is no herms / rims shown. If you're going to the effort to make a nice blingy rig, you should add a herms or rims too

 

[gava]

My first comment was going to be about the tipping MT being really close to the front of the stand which would be a pain whth putting a bin underneath.

SJ's great idea would overcome that.

Second thought is there is no herms / rims shown. If you're going to the effort to make a nice blingy rig, you should add a herms or rims too

My HERMS pot is at my sisters house since we're selling our house and i had to move the brew rig so I'll have to go around and measure it up so I can model it.. there will be a HERMS pot sitting (somewhere)

the MLT being close to the front of the stand is something that I will have to work out, hence whacking the early designs up here to get some feed back.. all welcome..
Im thinking of lowering the pivot point of the "basket" to see if that helps, my only concern is the weight that'll be in there and if its got a lower pivot point it may tip forward on me when im trying to tip it out.. if that was a probs would jig up a gas strut or something for a nice slow lowering system.. but thats going a bit far

 

[razz]

Hi Gava. With a "tippy dump" mounted mashtun, you can do one of two things. What you have designed where the tun pivots across its axis or hinged at the back (or front) of the brew stand so that it tips back and away from the stand, say, into a wheel barrow. I think your option would suit a tun that has little below it such as a brew tree or Morebeer style system. The second option requires a hinged square frame under the tun and the tun is fixed to the frame. Here's a link to Sqyre's set up. Food for thought.
http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...=si&img=850

 

[dalpets]

just a little update, Found out we have 3 phase and 32AMPs per phase.. would this be suitable to run a house (we dont have LPG) and a E-HERMS brewery?

I don't know if ths helps, I'm not on 3 phase, only single phase, 10 amp , but I measured the current draw of my new Hermes rig recently & my heat exchanger was drawing approx 7 amps (heater rated at 2200 watts) & my March pump 2 amps.
So I'm pretty close to the max. Our toaster draws approx 3.6 amps & the microwave probably would be up there too,so for me whilst brewing they would not want to be used. I would think with your power resources, at least with the above setup, would be no where near maxing out.

Cheers
dalpets

 

[gava]

Hey,

I've played around with the pivot position and come up wtih this, not sure if it suitable but it allows me to have the lip over the brewrig frame.

- I've added two pieces to hold the pot on the back since its now unbalanced.

-Now it tips fine... I will have to put some type of pin or locking feature for when i have it tipped and emptying it.. but getting there.

 

[husky]

personally I dont like the idea of an unbalanced mash tun. It allows potential for a serious accident. I would prefer a pivit point just above the centre of mass and re jig the supports to give the range of motion you require. I would then design a lever type arrancment consisting of a sleeve welded to the pot holding basket that you can slide a handle into to give you some leverage to tip the pot.

 

[gava]

re-tweaked the design lastnight thought I'd post to get some response.

1) MLT is now centered
2) Frame redesign to allow MLT to tip
3) Grain slide and March pump protector
4) Width extended to allow to HERMS pot to be mounted on top.
5) Control Panel mounted infront of the HLT on the left. This will house all the temp monitors and switches.

Side showing the guard..

Front

Side with the MLT tipped

Front with MLT Tipped

 

[gava]

OK been awhile since I've looked at this, the sparky has installed some power in the new house's brew room so now I can plan my control box.

I dont know anything about eletrical work I want to get some Beer Sparkys to give me some info so I can go to a local sparky give them some info on what I want.

below is a quick diagram showing the layout that I want, I dont know anything about relays etc.. but I like the look of these push button light up switches..

the power in the brewroom has 1 x 20amp point, 1 x 16amp point and 1 x 10amp point.. all on its own circuit..

the 2200 watt elements are from craftbrewer..

the 2400 watt element is ripped out of a kettle.

any info on how this could be configure, relays etc.. what I need for this to come alive would be great! cheers all..