Dummies guide to kegs?

[SBOB]

So I just scored (what i think) is a pretty decent bargain this arvo off gumtree and now have entered the world of being a keg owner
(http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-view-details.html?adId=1120201098)

Ive got two gas bottles (one empty and one full), harris co2 reg, 3 ball lock kegs, a bunch of oldish/stiff gas and liquid hoses, a few ball connects, and a basic looking pluto gun and swing style tap, all with a basic F&P upright fridge to fit a couple of the kegs in (for $350, which by maths is a decent deal)


So, having been a bottling guy up until this point I kind of need to dummies guide to keg and keg bits,so I can work out which bits I should just replace with new (like gas/liquid hoses and maybe ball connects) and how it all goes together/work.

Does anyone have a link to a good guide so I can quickly come up to speed with all these bits

 

[A.B.]

Whereabouts are you? Best way is to compare your bits with someone else's, so to speak.

 

[Lord Raja Goomba I]

Think of it as gas through reg to kegs, kegs dispense beer through tap.

So get the line from reg to NRV (to save your reg if beer goes backwards), then splitters. Line from splitters to kegs (via Qd). Each keg has a Qd, one for beer one for gas.

Beer out of keg via Qd, line, tap/gun.

May I recommend short term to grab plastic picnic taps and save for high quality taps. They pour better than cheap taps (and as good as some expensive ones).

 

[SBOB]

Im in Newcastle

Doesnt seem like the guy had NRV's or a splitter so might start google/ebay searching for those

 

[A.B.]

ok to help out I'd do this:

replace the beer line at the very least, and give the gun a damn good clean, and sanitise. also clean and sanitise the keg. I use a kettle full of just boiled water, pot the lid on, slosh it around, put the gun line on, and there will enough pressure to clean the beer line and gun. the keg will be hot, so be careful.

when you have finished a ferment, you need to get the beer into the keg, with not too much splashing around. use another bit of beer line/tubing for this.

only fill to the weld line, about 3cm from the bottom of the spike of the gas IN post.

Pop on the lid, connect gas to IN, open GAS, turn regulator to 3 psi or so, and burp the keg, by opening the pressure relief a couple or three times - what you are doing here is purging the oxygen out.

then put the keg in the fridge and do something else for 2 weeks.

When you cant wait any longer, connect the gas IN, wind it up to 40psi and use the ROSS method to carbonate (do a search on the forum, its easy and it works).

then enjoy your beer

hope that helps.

 

[Curly79]

Someone told me when I was starting out with kegs to remember, Gas Grey Grooves. So your gas disconnect is grey and if your keg doesn't say in or out ( which a lot dont ) the gas connection on the keg itself will have a little groove just above where it screws into the keg. The beer disconnect is black. Also when I buy a second hand keg I prefer to get the socket set out and take both the gas and beer posts off the keg and give everything a good soak and scrub in Perc and hot water. This way you can see how it all works and also you can check all the little rubber o rings and seals. You'll find replacement seal kits from home brew suppliers. Enjoy mate[emoji106][emoji481]

 

[Rocker1986]

I started with gas line splitters and then turfed them in favour of a manifold. Having used both methods, I much prefer the manifold, I just find it a lot easier to work with for my set up. I'm sure there will be differing views for both methods though. The only problem with manifolds is that you have to be sure they aren't leaking gas. Mine was leaking through one of the valves so I used silicone on all threaded connections in it once I found the leak (just in case and for future assurance), and it's been fine ever since. It sits on the outside with 3 gas lines going into my kegerator to the kegs on tap and a spare 4th one with a liquid disconnect on it to use the Ross carbonation method if needed. It also gets used for purging kegs. So that's another potential option.

 

[Grott]

then put the keg in the fridge and do something else for 2 weeks.

When you cant wait any longer, connect the gas IN, wind it up to 40psi and use the ROSS method to carbonate (do a search on the forum, its easy and it works).

then enjoy your beer

hope that helps.

IMO I would after 24 hours in the fridge do the Ross method, then leave keg till ready as if you wait 2 weeks first you will then shake up all the settle sediment etc in the keg.
Cheers

 

[SBOB]

So, anyone got some tips on must have new bits to get?

- beer and gas lines (easy one, though type/lengths?)
- gas line splitter? (e.g. http://kegking.com.au/co2-cylinders/4-output-4-way-gas-line-manifold-splitter-with-check-valves-880.html )
- check valve? (e.g. http://kegking.com.au/co2-cylinders/one-way-check-valve-with-brass-barbs.html)
- new ball locks? Any issue with just basic plastic ones (e.g. http://kegking.com.au/premium-plastic-ball-lock-disconnect-barb-grey-gas.html)

what connector/clamp types to attach gas and beer hoses to barbs do people use?

 

[Bribie G]

Im in Newcastle

Doesnt seem like the guy had NRV's or a splitter so might start google/ebay searching for those

I'd recommend talking to Anthony at CraftBrewer, they are the kegging experts and have all the bits.

 

[Rocker1986]

IMO I would after 24 hours in the fridge do the Ross method, then leave keg till ready as if you wait 2 weeks first you will then shake up all the settle sediment etc in the keg.
Cheers

Good point. I don't even use the Ross method anymore in most cases. Usually I just stick my 3 kegs in at a time, wait til they're cold, hook up the gas lines to them, set the pressure to 45PSI and leave them for ~20 hours, remove the gas disconnects and let them sit for another few hours (or whenever I get back to them) before releasing the pressure and hooking the gas back up again at normal serving pressure. They're usually just off full carbonation at this point, and it takes about one day, or two days if you count the chilling time. Seems less prone to over carbonating them than shaking them around does, although I did use the Ross method to good effect on a keg recently.

 

[eldertaco]

With that manifold I'm pretty sure you don't need a NRV to protect the regulator, as each individual outlet has it's own built in NRV

 

[Rocker1986]

With that manifold I'm pretty sure you don't need a NRV to protect the regulator, as each individual outlet has it's own built in NRV

That's probably true too. I left my original NRV in place anyway just as a bit of extra insurance, but you're right, the individual outlets are check valves.

 

[Lord Raja Goomba I]

Oh and for line, just get valpar, buy once, cry once.

Stepless clamps on the barbs to keep the line connected.

You could use Mfl connections instead (everything plugs and screws in) But a little more upfront $$

 

[peteru]

What would people recommend for gas line? I'm using the Keg King beer line that they supply with the kegerator as my gas line, but I don't like it. I'd prefer something that is a bit more softer/flexible so that it's easier to work with.

 

[Steve]

What would people recommend for gas line? I'm using the Keg King beer line that they supply with the kegerator as my gas line, but I don't like it. I'd prefer something that is a bit more softer/flexible so that it's easier to work with.

Valpar

 

[SBOB]

what size gas/beer lines are 'standard'?
is this the kind being recommended - http://www.craftbrewer.com.au/shop/details.asp?PID=828

"High quality, commercial grade gas/beer line Line - OD 8mm - ID 5m"

 

[Droopy Brew]

Check the o rings on the gas and liquid posts. I fhtere is any sign of cracking replace them. In fact for 30c each just replace them all. Also check the main oring in the lid. These will be your main leak points.
Also get a tube of food grade lubricant from the HB store. Cant have too much lube. Use on in and out posts (snigger).

 

[SBOB]

Check the o rings on the gas and liquid posts. I fhtere is any sign of cracking replace them. In fact for 30c each just replace them all. Also check the main oring in the lid. These will be your main leak points.
Also get a tube of food grade lubricant from the HB store. Cant have too much lube. Use on in and out posts (snigger).

good idea, is there a popular source where people get their replacement seals from?

 

[Rocker1986]

what size gas/beer lines are 'standard'?
is this the kind being recommended - http://www.craftbrewer.com.au/shop/details.asp?PID=828

"High quality, commercial grade gas/beer line Line - OD 8mm - ID 5m"

That's what I've got for both beer and gas lines, yes. Beer lines are about a year old now but the gas lines not as much as I only got these when I got my manifold. Obviously had other line for the original T-splitters I was using. It was the same stuff though. It's worth it in my opinion, great quality in my experience.