Dry Malt Extract

[stuchambers]

Hey all
I have done a few kits now some with some additions of DME.
In which direction do you think it is best to take the next step?
-Buying a better quality yeast for the kits.
-Adding some hops to a kit.
If this is possible do away with the kit and just use full dry malt extract or do you need to buy a malted grain and do a boil.

Cheers Stu

 

[mwd]

All extract brewing with added hops and steeping grains is the next big jump and still easy to do.

If you want to take baby steps then the next step is adding about 200g of Crystal malts (steeped) and the extra hops to a kit beer commonly referred to a kit and bits.

lots of recipes around for k&bs.

Edit: Get some dry Nottingham or US-05 yeasts to replace the kit yeasts that makes a big improvement to most kits.

 

[Bubba]

Hey all
I have done a few kits now some with some additions of DME.
In which direction do you think it is best to take the next step?
-Buying a better quality yeast for the kits.
-Adding some hops to a kit.
If this is possible do away with the kit and just use full dry malt extract or do you need to buy a malted grain and do a boil.

Cheers Stu

Congrats Stu, next step from KK is usualle extract brewing.

Basically replace your 1.7kg kit with 1.5kg LME (liquid, not dry), adding DME or Dex or Brew Enhancers and hop additions to replace the hops that would have been in your kits.

Don't be too daunted, it is as easy as kit breing except you control the hop additions for flavour, bitterness and aroma, and can add some steeped spec grains to take it to the next level.

Look at the recipe DB for ideas, there art lots of good ones...the only difference now is a little more time to boil your hops with your malt extract.

What type of beer do you normally drink, or what type of beer are you trying to do and we may be able to give you some recipe ideas?

Bubba

 

[mkstalen]

Hi Stu,

Welcome aboard.

You can definately do away with the kit if you wish. A tin of goo is basically just Malt Extract with hop additions. What you'd be doing is known as a "full extract" brew.
If you do a search through the forums you'll find plenty of info.

Other things you can do to enhance a tin kit, is as you mentioned, add your own flavour/aroma hops, steep some grain, use a better yeast (US-05 is a good start). The other great thing to do is find a way to keep your ferment temp as constant as possible, minimising the fermentation temp fluctuations makes a massive difference to your end product.

Have a look at ianh's spreadsheet:
http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...st&p=644029
It'll help you put together what you need to do a tricked up kit beer, or a full extract.

 

[stuchambers]

Thanks for the quick responces it clears up a few issues and gives me a bit of direction.

I used to drink beer for the usual young person reasons however this last week I have taken myself on a bit of a journey. Tasting many styles of beers trying to find what I like and what I would like to brew. I really enjoyed a Weihenstephaner Pilsner but then had a pilsner urquell and it didnt do it for me. I have had a chocolate stout and taddy porter that I both enjoyed but its not a beer I could drink a lot of.
I think at the moment I am really enjoying tasting all the styles however it has been expensive at about 7 or 8 dollars a bottle.
Im in Tassie so I want to take advantage of the crisper weather and try and make a larger for summer while I can still keep the fermenting temps low before summer.

Cheers Stu

 

[Pennywise]

Fill in you location stuchambers, might be able to hook up with another brewer for a brewday and get a few ideas. Pretty sure there's a few down in Tas. Welcome to AHB also :icon_cheers:

 

[ianh]

Hi stuchambers and welcome to the forum, which part of Tassie are you from. As you can see I am from the NW - Wynyard.

As someone has already suggested if you have MS office download a copy of my spreadsheet from the forum.

Going Extract, grains and hops plus better yeast is not that big a step, involves steeping at 65C and being able to boil about 10 litres of wort with some hops for an hour, rest is what you are already doing.

cheers

Ian

 

[QldKev]

Either use a kit, or LDME for the base.
Steep some grains - must
Add hops - must

Using a kit you already have bittered hops, so it makes the process a bit quicker.

Kev's 2 sec guide to kit & bit
- Crush some grain (Munich/Crystal, what ever depending on what you want) say 250-350g. Get pre-crushed or use a rolling pin or what ever.
- Throw a couple of litres of water on stove, get to 70c, turn off heat (you will loose a few degrees C when you add the grain)
- Cut some swiss voile to line the inside of your pot, allowing overhang
- Throw grain in pot for 60mins, cover and wrap up to keep warm
- Drink beer, remember after 90mins and too many beers about the grain (it won't hurt it lol)
- End of steep pull grain out of pot and drain back into pot
- Hit the heat under the pot, add hops & boil for 5-10mins.
- Mix up kit, LDME and add extra goodness from pot
- ferment, bottle/keg,
and enjoy the best beer you have ever made.

There are heaps of good instructions on how this process should be done. This is to give you an idea of how simple it should be.


With yeasts, they will improve your beer, but ensure you can keep the correct temperature range to suit the yeast. ie. Don't get a lager yeast it you will be sitting on 18c.


QldKev

 

[tallie]

Other things you can do to enhance a tin kit, is as you mentioned, add your own flavour/aroma hops, steep some grain, use a better yeast (US-05 is a good start). The other great thing to do is find a way to keep your ferment temp as constant as possible, minimising the fermentation temp fluctuations makes a massive difference to your end product.

+1 to using a better yeast and having constant controlled fermentation temperature (if you haven't got already). The good thing about making this step is that it can improve all kinds of brewing (kit/extract/AG) and you won't need to change that part of the process as you progress through.

At the end of the day, your job is just to make yeast food and give the yeast the best conditions to do what they do best - make beer!

Cheers,
tallie

 

[bignath]

Either use a kit, or LDME for the base.
Steep some grains - must
Add hops - must

Using a kit you already have bittered hops, so it makes the process a bit quicker.

Kev's 2 sec guide to kit & bit
- Crush some grain (Munich/Crystal, what ever depending on what you want) say 250-350g. Get pre-crushed or use a rolling pin or what ever.
- Throw a couple of litres of water on stove, get to 70c, turn off heat (you will loose a few degrees C when you add the grain)
- Cut some swiss voile to line the inside of your pot, allowing overhang
- Throw grain in pot for 60mins, cover and wrap up to keep warm
- Drink beer, remember after 90mins and too many beers about the grain (it won't hurt it lol)
- End of steep pull grain out of pot and drain back into pot
- Hit the heat under the pot, add hops & boil for 5-10mins.
- Mix up kit, LDME and add extra goodness from pot
- ferment, bottle/keg,
and enjoy the best beer you have ever made.

There are heaps of good instructions on how this process should be done. This is to give you an idea of how simple it should be.


With yeasts, they will improve your beer, but ensure you can keep the correct temperature range to suit the yeast. ie. Don't get a lager yeast it you will be sitting on 18c.


QldKev

+1 This is excellent advice.


"- Drink beer, remember after 90mins and too many beers about the grain (it won't hurt it lol)"

If i could just add one more point regarding drinking while brewing and forgetting about stuff.

Please make sure your fermenter tap is closed before filling. A long distant relative of my uncles brothers former high school room mate may have had this happen to him before.....

 

[bullsneck]

Check out this thread. It is a pretty easy recipe and makes a nice beer.

 

[Jeff Margrie]

In which direction do you think it is best to take the next step?

+1 for better quality yeast & fermentation temp control. You will see a big difference with your beers.

Cheers WoolBrew :icon_cheers:

 

[stuchambers]

Ok guys thanks
My next brew is going to be a Thomas Coopers Pilsner can you recommend a good yeast for this brew.

I have a brew on now spit into two fermenters 11L each I made a base of 1 can cascade imperial pale ale, 1kg brew boost no 15 and kit yeast then split that into 2 worts, then to one of them I added 250g DME light.
I like the idea of being able to see ( taste ) the difference from the extra malt.
Pitched yeast at 22C placed one in a large esky and the other on a thick sheet of foam to get it off the concrete floor and then wraped in blanket the temp the next day were. 20 for one in esky and 18 for one in blanket I added some bottle filled with hot water under blanket and in esky and this made temps 22 and 20. I have been changing the hot water each night and for the past 2 day the temp has been 20 and 18.
Are these constant enough? and if I plan to make this pislner I want a temp of below 15C right?

 

[Jeff Margrie]

My next brew is going to be a Thomas Coopers Pilsner can you recommend a good yeast for this brew.
and if I plan to make this pislner I want a temp of below 15C right?

Use SAF Lager S-23 or the yeast that comes with the coopers tin as it is a lager strain of yeast.
Ferment both @ 12-13 deg C. No higher than 15 deg C.

Have used both with the Thomas Coopers Pilsner with good results at that temp.

Cheers WoolBrew :icon_cheers: