Does any one use there pump to drain boil kettle into fermenter

[Coo brewing]

So I've just done a few improvements to brewery 3tier system got new dip tube ( stainless ) elbow with nipple to reach bottom of keggel to improve volume . Was leaving 8 litres in the keg but now with help of pump I'm leaving nothing I know I will have to run sanitizer throughout pump and tubes but I'm thinking I will pick up a lot of trub and hop through draing keg so just wondering if any body else does it

 

[technobabble66]

Done/Do it.
Do you use Irish Moss etc, to hep settle the trub? If so, and you whirlpool well, the grub etc should collect in a tight cone at the bottom and the pump will drain out the kettle to the final 0.5L or so before it starts drawing up trub. Even without the Irish Moss, it'll still settle out fairly well.
In case you're wondering, the pump should be fine if you start sucking up a bit of trub. I'd try to minimise it to some extent, but a bit won't harm the pump.
Does that help?

 

[MHB]

Every Batch - the system requires it. there is a plate heat exchanger to sterilise as well as all the lines and fittings.
Procedure is to whirlpool from flame out down to about 90oC, the kettle is fitted with a tangential return.
Hot wort is then circulated through the Hex for about 10 minutes, which sterilises it and all the lines.
Turn on the cooling water to the Hex, when it is cool to touch, pump off, move the line from the tangential return to the fermenter, pump on and fill the fermenters.
With BrewBright added as a slurry at flame out total left in the kettle is ~5L for a 120-160L batch.
If we need a couple of litres more wort we can tip the kettle a bit and take the leavings down to ~2L but usually CBA, 5L Loss in 120L is just over 4% so pretty much on target (loss on a small system is usually given as around 5%.

Hex is cleaned pretty much the same way, using Perk or BBW, and occasionally boiling caustic (about every 5th brew) to stop any build up of biofilm.
Mark

 

[trevgale]

I have a 3V system (Technically 4V) and I chill through 2 plate chillers, one with tap water and the other with ice water. I basically do the same as Mark with recirculating through this system with close to boiling wort for at least 10min.

The only only additional step I do is that I recirculate starsan through the system for about 10min while I'm waiting for the boil to finish. I'm pretty sure this step is not required but I have a small bucket of starsan made up to put things in anyway, I just added a valve to the bottom so that I could connect the pump suction.

Again, pretty sure this step is not needed but it is easy for me to do and I've never had an infection so why change things.

 

[S.E]

I pump from the kettle through a crude homemade counter flow chiller into the fermenter.

First I hose a little cold water through the CF to make sure nothing has crawled up it since the last brew. About the last 15 minutes of the boil I recirculate boiling wort from the tap back in through the top of the kettle without the cold water running. This cleans and sterilises the pump and chiller similar to putting an immersion chiller into the kettle for the last 15 min’s of the boil.

Switch the pump off at flame out. Whirlpool then transfer through the CF into the FV. I often continue re circulating the wort in the kettle during whirlpool and for about 15 mins after with the cold water turned on and running slowly. This drops the temp of the wort in the kettle to about 80c before I cool it to 20c into the FV.

Having previously tipped the grain from the MT and given it a quick hose/clean so no visible crap remains, I run the hot water returning from the CF up into the MT. Once all the cooled wort is in the FV , I mix sod perc (I would rather use caustic but the CF is copper) in to the hot water in the MT and let it slowly gravity feed through the pump and CF in to the kettle.

[SIZE=11pt]It’s not ideal using the MT to clean a CF but I will be be cleaning and sterilising it by recirculating boiling wort for 15 min next time I brew anyway. [/SIZE]

 

[MHB]

Snip

Again, pretty sure this step is not needed but it is easy for me to do and I've never had an infection so why change things.

Would never complain about anyone over cleaning - ever.
M

 

[MastersBrewery]

Same as most above my 1v is a little too low to just drain to the fermenter, I use whirfloc (when I remember) and whirlpool for the duration of the chill, when using the immersion chiller, as I get closer to the end of chilling I gradually slow the whirlpool,let stand for 10 mins, when I transfer I do it fairly slowly to reduce disturbing the trub.

With the counter flow chiller, I use the immersion chiller as a pre chiller for the in coming water, so end of boil I kill power, start the whirl pool and run that for 20 mins using similar technique to above.

 

[Coo brewing]

Thanks guys I've never used any clearing agents . But maybe I will start I will try tis next brew thanks guys

 

[balconybrewer]

Every Batch - the system requires it. there is a plate heat exchanger to sterilise as well as all the lines and fittings.
Procedure is to whirlpool from flame out down to about 90oC, the kettle is fitted with a tangential return.
Hot wort is then circulated through the Hex for about 10 minutes, which sterilises it and all the lines.
Turn on the cooling water to the Hex, when it is cool to touch, pump off, move the line from the tangential return to the fermenter, pump on and fill the fermenters.
With BrewBright added as a slurry at flame out total left in the kettle is ~5L for a 120-160L batch.
If we need a couple of litres more wort we can tip the kettle a bit and take the leavings down to ~2L but usually CBA, 5L Loss in 120L is just over 4% so pretty much on target (loss on a small system is usually given as around 5%.

Hex is cleaned pretty much the same way, using Perk or BBW, and occasionally boiling caustic (about every 5th brew) to stop any build up of biofilm.
Mark

What type of hex are you using MHB?