Cube Hopping And Whirlpooling

Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum

Help Support Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

jbowers

Well-Known Member
Joined
29/11/09
Messages
767
Reaction score
1
Hey all,

I was wondering what the no chillers who use cube hopping as their late addition tend to do about whirlpooling. I did my first BIAB brew the other day and had a meagre attempt at whirlpooling as I feared that doing it for too long would throw off my calculations for the cube hop IBUs due to the wort being cooler when I cubed it.

Keen to hear thoughts on this.
 
I do a big whirlpool... keep out the trub.

Cube hops are treated as 10min additions... works pretty well.

Or don't cube hop and boil up 4L of wort from the NC cube with your hops, drain, add to the remainder of wort and ferment as normal.
 
For cube-hopped brews I still wait to be able to do a proper whirlpool - you don't need it to be any hotter than a normal no-chill (depending on your calcs, I suppose). I'm sure it'll be okay though. Maybe some long term stability issues if you're unlucky. I wouldn't stress, mate.
 
I whirlpool as normal. Then again I don't make adjustments for no-chill and usually 0 min addition is in the whirlpool rather than in the cube.
 
i whirlpool and cube as normal, i dont worry about the ibus greatly as i use the cube hop as a replacement for flameout hops so feel it really doesnt matter.
 
same here, whirlpool as normal and calc the cube additions as 10m in BS.
 
With the increased exposure to heat I would warrant the BU is 30-100% over your expected target.

I've raised this on the BS forum and had no answer. Using a photospectometer at current production plant the BU of all my beers were at least 30% over as the whirlpool addition does not contribute any BU - this is incorrect.

How does this relate to cube hopping - I used to formulate recipes the same way when making hundreds of wort packs a month, bittered at full from the 60 min addition with BS giving no BU for any whirlpool hops.

If u are using the 10 minute addition to add some BU I'd say this would still not be enough as the majority of iso-alpha would still dissolve leaving these to isomerise in the cube over time at the elevated temp. If ran thru the spectrometer I'd say all BU's would be over by a significant amount

The golden ale I make at work using a high alpha whirlpool hop is bittered to 6 BU with aprox 15-20 BU coming from the 10 min whirlpool and 45 transfer - imagine doing this and adding to a cube for 2 hours of a hot stand? The BU's would be through the roof.

Scotty
 
i whirlpool and leave for about 10 mins. then cube hop and no chill. this has worked fine for a number of my apa's
 
With the increased exposure to heat I would warrant the BU is 30-100% over your expected target.

I've raised this on the BS forum and had no answer. Using a photospectometer at current production plant the BU of all my beers were at least 30% over as the whirlpool addition does not contribute any BU - this is incorrect.

How does this relate to cube hopping - I used to formulate recipes the same way when making hundreds of wort packs a month, bittered at full from the 60 min addition with BS giving no BU for any whirlpool hops.

If u are using the 10 minute addition to add some BU I'd say this would still not be enough as the majority of iso-alpha would still dissolve leaving these to isomerise in the cube over time at the elevated temp. If ran thru the spectrometer I'd say all BU's would be over by a significant amount

The golden ale I make at work using a high alpha whirlpool hop is bittered to 6 BU with aprox 15-20 BU coming from the 10 min whirlpool and 45 transfer - imagine doing this and adding to a cube for 2 hours of a hot stand? The BU's would be through the roof.

Scotty
I've only got anecdotal evidence of this but it is exactly what you suggest. Cube hops add bitterness. higher aa hop in cube = more bitterness. It also depends on ambient temp. In summer my cubes take 24 hours or so to drop to ambient and the bitterness goes up. But in winter the temp drops much faster so less bitterness. This is why I don't add whirlpool hops and I calculate them as either a 10 or 15 minute addition in beersmith.

Have you got access to a spectrometer? It would be cool to cube hop a beer and then actually measure the IBU's.
 
Hey all,

I was wondering what the no chillers who use cube hopping as their late addition tend to do about whirlpooling. I did my first BIAB brew the other day and had a meagre attempt at whirlpooling as I feared that doing it for too long would throw off my calculations for the cube hop IBUs due to the wort being cooler when I cubed it.

Keen to hear thoughts on this.

Many different methods. I tend to no-chill a lot of beers due to laziness. My method to avoid any unwanted BU's is (I read it on here, so credit to someone else) to not add any hops after 10mins. No chill, then ferment out. At FG, I chill to 3. After a few days at 3, I rack to secondary with gelatin in 2nd vessel. At this point I will add all 10min and less additions to a jug in either a hop bag or in a strainer. Let it steep in a cup or two of just boiled water - (I dont use wort) just long enough to make a hop tea - I guess around 5 mins. Then remove hop bag, squeeze and just tip the hop tea into 3 wort and it's instantly cooled. Gets all the flavour & aroma of late hopped rapid cooled beer.
mckenry
 
My experiences with tea-hopping have been less than overwhelming. I don't find the aroma or flavour contribution any where near as significant as with late hop additions or dry hopping.
 
never done tea hopping but sounds like a lot of extra work. as the mayor said... i also just add my 10 min addition to the cube.

i was worried about clarity but doing a we of cold conditioning works great. have very clear beers now.


i would like to do a side by side test with no chill and chilling in a bath tube(as i don't have a chiller)
 
If you are after hop aroma, and cube, I'd recommend the method first put up on the forum by Argon and which I "stood on its head" to give a similar effect:

Argon

Don't use aroma hops in the cube.
When the cube is cool enough, put it in the fermenting fridge and crank it right down to about 8 degrees
Take out about a litre of wort (or have a litre of excess wort that you have saved from the brew) into a stovetop pan and boil your aroma hops for the 10 mins, or do a "fake whirlpool" with them in the boiling wort or whatever your intention is.
Strain the hot wort into the fermenter followed by the cube of cold wort, which brings it all to pitching temperature.
Pitch


My "reverse" method

When the cube is cool enough, put it in the fermenting fridge and bring it to your desired pitching temperature
Take out about a litre of wort (etc.. same as above ....)

Cover the pan and rapidly cool to desired pitching temperature in an ice bath, cold water in sink etc.

Strain this wort into the fermenter plus the cube of cooled wort
Pitch

Works very well, I reckon it gives far better aroma than hop tea.
 
I used to do a cube hop addition but found a grassy note to a lot of my beers and no real hop aroma

I then switched to a 0 min addition (about 20g in a 20L batch) then gave it a really good stir to create a whirlpool and left the kettle stand for 10-15mins before racking to a cube

The hop aroma in my beers has increased appreciably with this approach

Cheers
 
With the increased exposure to heat I would warrant the BU is 30-100% over your expected target.

I've raised this on the BS forum and had no answer. Using a photospectometer at current production plant the BU of all my beers were at least 30% over as the whirlpool addition does not contribute any BU - this is incorrect.

How does this relate to cube hopping - I used to formulate recipes the same way when making hundreds of wort packs a month, bittered at full from the 60 min addition with BS giving no BU for any whirlpool hops.

If u are using the 10 minute addition to add some BU I'd say this would still not be enough as the majority of iso-alpha would still dissolve leaving these to isomerise in the cube over time at the elevated temp. If ran thru the spectrometer I'd say all BU's would be over by a significant amount

The golden ale I make at work using a high alpha whirlpool hop is bittered to 6 BU with aprox 15-20 BU coming from the 10 min whirlpool and 45 transfer - imagine doing this and adding to a cube for 2 hours of a hot stand? The BU's would be through the roof.

Scotty

Ok, so this is starting to do my head in a bit.

Currently I am slow-chilling by submerging my cube in a 60L bin of cold water, previously I was using an immersion chiller.
the theory is that isomerization doesn't occur under 75C, so I can have all my hop additions including FO, or whirlpool without the BU's going through the roof.

Using the slow-chill, I can get the wort to under 75C within 30min easily, but this still adds an extra amount of bitterness to the brew.
The suspected reason for the elevated BU's in the slow chill is probably due to the 30min wait, while when I was using the immersion chiller it would get to under 75C in 5min.

The other reason would be due to thermal mass and inertia.
Even though my probe says its 75C on the outside of the submerged cube, it's not unreasonable to expect the centre of the cube will be hotter.

The problem I'm running into is that no-chill is all experimental STILL, and there is still a lot of guess work involved and no hard evidence that points to x amount of time =x amount of IBU at x temp using x AA hops.

There needs to be some measurable experiments done to measure the IBU's over a number of split boils using high and low AA hops (e.g. half chilled, half no-chilled = measure IBU's )

Until that happens, it's all going to be guess work.

Ideally I want to be able to slow chill with all my standard hop additions.
The only way I can picture this in my head is to use a 'bladder' submerged in chilled water with something that massages the bladder to keep the thermals moving and exposed to the cooler water.

the benifeits of this is you can dump your near boiling wort into the bladder, pasturising it within minutes, submerge to chill and store it away to ferment whenever you want.

on a commercial level, you could sell it the same as the wine packs...

Just something to chew on

BF
 
It also depends on ambient temp. In summer my cubes take 24 hours or so to drop to ambient and the bitterness goes up. But in winter the temp drops much faster so less bitterness. This is why I don't add whirlpool hops and I calculate them as either a 10 or 15 minute addition in beersmith.

When I've been storing my wort into cubes, especially in summer, I let it sit for say 15 minutes so the hot wort can do it's sanitising magic and then I pop it in the fridge to bring the temps down a bit quicker. Is this still seen to be No-Chill ?
 
me and MoM were talking about this the other day.

how do the micro and bigger systems chill their wort? wouldn't the time it takes them to chill there wort down also increase the ibu's?

i believe an us brewery had trouble replicating what they did on a small system because of this added ibu after flame out?
you would think they would have some stats maybe?
 
me and MoM were talking about this the other day.

how do the micro and bigger systems chill their wort? wouldn't the time it takes them to chill there wort down also increase the ibu's?

i believe an us brewery had trouble replicating what they did on a small system because of this added ibu after flame out?
you would think they would have some stats maybe?
Yeah mate this relates back to what /// was talking about. It was a discussion between pro brewers in the US. They were setting up a pilot brewery and were trying to work out how to scale it up to their production system. They seemed to be shocked that whirlpool hops added IBU's. Basically on the pilot system the time to chill was much faster than that of their production system and this was throwing the beers out.

I reckon that there are too many variables to come up with an exact formula. A bit of trial and error is required to dial in your own system.
 
Not so much How the commercial chills the wort but How Long after flameout before chilling the wort.
Helping out at a local brewery I know the process there is Flame out, pump to whirlpool, leave in whirlpool until spinning has pretty much stopped then pump through chiller to fermenter.
So How Long does 1200L take to stop spinning in the whirlpool vessel? 20-30minutes?
How hot is it during it's time in the whirlpool? Goes in close to boiling, still in the 90's when it comes out.
So there is definitely going to be some increase in bitterness from late hopping and even more if whirlpool hopped.
How do you calculate it? Not sure there is an accurate way but I'd say experience is your best tool.

Whether no-chilling or whirlpooling prior to chilling some allowance needs to be made for extra bitterness compared to, say, an immersion chiller used before whirlpooling.
As with everything in homebrewing though it's up to the brewer to adjust for your own particular brewery and the way you do things until you are happy with the results.
Suppose this means brewing more beer til we get it right. :D
Cheers
Nige
 
Back
Top