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CraftBeerPI Brew Controller

Discussion in 'Electronics, Hardware & Software' started by Manuel, 26/4/16.

 

  1. Half-baked

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    Posted 26/3/19
    On the FB page, there’s talk of a v3 board being released soon. Mash to Brew is the go-to for the v2 boards, but are sold out. I suspect they aren’t ordering more of the v2 but waiting for the v3.

    From memory the v3 will allow you to connect pressure sensors to measure the volume of the wort...
     
  2. Joachim

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    Posted 27/3/19

    Look at mash to brew, there I bought a board tree weeks ago
     
  3. Half-baked

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    Posted 31/3/19
    G’day all,

    Finally ready to build after getting most things from Mash to Brew a few months ago (mostly Jaycar for the rest).

    Less out of my depth now than when I started but still reasonably clueless.

    Two things to ask...

    First, could those more knowledgeable than me please have a look over the below (badly drawn) diagrams to tell me what I’ve done wrong? (Other than not using a ruler.)

    Second, I know 240v kills, so looking for a qualified electrician in Sydney who might be interested in coming to the inner west in the next 3-4 weeks to check it out when finally built? Have a couple of cases to impart in return for the favour (or let me know soon and could swap a full 19l keg for an empty one).

    Thanks,
    Heath

    IMG_0622.JPG IMG_0623.JPG IMG_0624.JPG IMG_0625.JPG IMG_0626.JPG IMG_0627.JPG IMG_0628.JPG
     
  4. Lorenzo99

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    Posted 2/4/19
    Ok, i know nothing about the project you are building. I am however a qualified elec and the drawings you have done are pretty good.(don`t be too hard on yaself haha) My only question is how many amps is your kettle and HLT? i see you have 40 amp ssr`s but everything is only being supplied of 1 x 10 amp breaker. DO you have heat sinks for the ssr`s? you will need them. Other than that it all looks good. Smart controlled automation i like it!
     
    Last edited: 2/4/19
  5. Half-baked

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    Posted 2/4/19
    Awesome, thanks for the feedback @Lorenzo99! You've given me the confidence to finally start the build!

    Running a 2200w HLT (20L urn) and a 2200w kettle (30L urn). Apparently there is some CBPi wizardry (PWM) that allows the two to be used concurrently (either at a reduced voltage or they very quickly alternate, but haven't looked into it properly yet). The theory is I should have just enough juice for the 2200w for HLT/kettle + 25w for pump + 45w to run the Pi...

    Have both SSRs hooked up to this heatsink, which is hopefully overkill.

    The hope is for the controller to be scaleable, moving onto a bigger kettle down the track, with only the breaker and power cable needing an update...

    Now here's hoping it doesn't take me another three months to figure out the software side of things...
     
    zwitter likes this.
  6. Wobbly74

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    Posted 2/4/19
    Of you have one 10a breaker you will probably trip it if you need to use both urns at the same time. Cbpi will pulse the elements when maintaining temperature but will run them at 100% when ramping. So theoretically you could pre heat the HLT, then heat the water in your kettle (assuming you're mashing in your kettle and sparging from your HLT) while maintaining mash out temp in your HLT, but this will extend your brew day unless you preheat. Also, problems often arise and if you find yourself needing to heat both at the same time you'll have to stagger the heating process.
     
  7. Lorenzo99

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    Posted 3/4/19
    You will definitely need a 20amp rcd/mcb you will be pulling 19.3 amps just with your HLT and your kettle running. 19.43amps with everything running. Make sure you use at least 2.5sqmm cable as well.

    Best practice is to have the ssr`s hooked up to separate heat sinks.
     
  8. Half-baked

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    Posted 3/4/19
    Thanks @Wobbly74 and @Lorenzo99.

    It’s a 3v system, so if I can’t run HLT and kettle concurrently then will either a) let the sparge water cool down naturally, maybe insulating it or b) hook up the kettle to a different circuit to ramp to boiling (which is what I do now).

    Still not sure about CBPi’s capability so still hoping it’s possible to c) alternate between heating HLT and kettle (e.g. 4 min to heat kettle, then 1 to bring HLT back to sparge temp).

    Not planning to get a 20a plug just for a 23l batch if I can avoid it!

    For reference, pic of my system is attached..
    IMG_9787.JPG
     
  9. Lorenzo99

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    Posted 4/4/19
    You could always run a separate 10 amp plug through a second 10 amp circuit breaker specifically for your hlt or kettle for example out of the second circuit breaker straight to the SSR for the hlt or kettle. Providing you have nothing else in your house on the circuit you could even plug it into the same double GPO. if you do have other points on the same Circuit as long as you're not using appliances plugged in to those outlets you will have no problem
     
  10. Wobbly74

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    Posted 4/4/19
    That's pretty much what I do - two power lines in to the control box from two different GPOs each to different SSRs but the pi controlling the 3v signal to each. One power line does kettle & pump SSRs, the other the HLT SSR and powers an external power board.
     
  11. Half-baked

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    Posted 5/4/19
    Thanks guys, TBH enclosure doesn’t have much space, so will just run an extension cord to the kettle during the sparge.

    Really only want the kettle hooked up to the Pi for hop stands and kettle sours, so can live with this...

    Cheers for the help, will post pics when up and running
     
  12. Half-baked

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    Posted 7/5/19
    Not up and running yet but thought I’d post some pictures before I get a sparky in to have a look (and do some odd jobs).

    Any glaring problems, please shout out (apart from the obvious of not having the power in connected).

    One thing that’s gnawing at me: do I need a monitor or will remote access be okay? Won’t be opening up the box when power is on...

    Some learnings to share:
    - plan what you need before you buy
    - get a bigger enclosure than you think you will need
    - you can go from knowing FA to having a basic understanding by putting in a bit of effort.

    Cheers,
    HB

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    Ian Smith likes this.
  13. Muzzaguzza

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    Posted 10/5/19
    Don't forget to earth your din rail.
     
  14. Half-baked

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    Posted 10/5/19
    Thanks @Muzzaguzza.

    DIN rail is connected to the back plate, would be easier to earth that... would that be sufficient?
     
  15. bluc

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    Posted 26/5/19
    Ok so have setup my pi zero w and I am having same issue as tumi2 with the ssr not triggering..my understanding is I should be able to use a logic level converter to switch with 5v instead of 3.3v. But cant get that to work either. I had it hooked up. 5v to
    Hv/3v to lv/ 5v and 3v side grounds to ground. And I had gpio 18 to lv2 and then a lead of hv2 to the + on the ssr low voltage side...No idea why this wont work..help much appreciated..I also tested the level converter with multimeter and got 3v on lv2 and same reading hv2 so I must have it wired wrong..
     
  16. Dubzie

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    Posted 14/6/19
    Use an Inkbird SSR (ebay)
    Once i got one of these it fires off strait from the 3v gpio
     
    Truman42 likes this.
  17. Truman42

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    Posted 25/7/19
    Hi guys, keen to set up a CBPi to run my Guten and Ive already installed CBPi3 on a pi zero w. Im still a bit lost with setting up the Äctors"etc in cbpi. I set up actor 1 as element 1 and actor 2 as element 2 and then actor 3 as my pump, but it has actor 2 (element 2) connected to the pump icon. Is there a better way to do this or should I connect both elements on the guten up to the one SSR and just use the power setting to lower it for mashing?
     

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