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CraftBeerPI Brew Controller

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Half-baked

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I am looking to buy a v2 card but I can not find and on the official Facebook page I have no answer!
On the FB page, there’s talk of a v3 board being released soon. Mash to Brew is the go-to for the v2 boards, but are sold out. I suspect they aren’t ordering more of the v2 but waiting for the v3.

From memory the v3 will allow you to connect pressure sensors to measure the volume of the wort...
 

Joachim

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Sorry to disturb you

I am looking to buy a v2 card but I can not find and on the official Facebook page I have no answer! Do you have a link ?

Thank you Good day

Look at mash to brew, there I bought a board tree weeks ago
 

Half-baked

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G’day all,

Finally ready to build after getting most things from Mash to Brew a few months ago (mostly Jaycar for the rest).

Less out of my depth now than when I started but still reasonably clueless.

Two things to ask...

First, could those more knowledgeable than me please have a look over the below (badly drawn) diagrams to tell me what I’ve done wrong? (Other than not using a ruler.)

Second, I know 240v kills, so looking for a qualified electrician in Sydney who might be interested in coming to the inner west in the next 3-4 weeks to check it out when finally built? Have a couple of cases to impart in return for the favour (or let me know soon and could swap a full 19l keg for an empty one).

Thanks,
Heath

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Lorenzo99

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G’day all,

Finally ready to build after getting most things from Mash to Brew a few months ago (mostly Jaycar for the rest).

Less out of my depth now than when I started but still reasonably clueless.

Two things to ask...

First, could those more knowledgeable than me please have a look over the below (badly drawn) diagrams to tell me what I’ve done wrong? (Other than not using a ruler.)

Second, I know 240v kills, so looking for a qualified electrician in Sydney who might be interested in coming to the inner west in the next 3-4 weeks to check it out when finally built? Have a couple of cases to impart in return for the favour (or let me know soon and could swap a full 19l keg for an empty one).

Thanks,
Heath

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Ok, i know nothing about the project you are building. I am however a qualified elec and the drawings you have done are pretty good.(don`t be too hard on yaself haha) My only question is how many amps is your kettle and HLT? i see you have 40 amp ssr`s but everything is only being supplied of 1 x 10 amp breaker. DO you have heat sinks for the ssr`s? you will need them. Other than that it all looks good. Smart controlled automation i like it!
 
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Half-baked

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Awesome, thanks for the feedback @Lorenzo99! You've given me the confidence to finally start the build!

Running a 2200w HLT (20L urn) and a 2200w kettle (30L urn). Apparently there is some CBPi wizardry (PWM) that allows the two to be used concurrently (either at a reduced voltage or they very quickly alternate, but haven't looked into it properly yet). The theory is I should have just enough juice for the 2200w for HLT/kettle + 25w for pump + 45w to run the Pi...

Have both SSRs hooked up to this heatsink, which is hopefully overkill.

The hope is for the controller to be scaleable, moving onto a bigger kettle down the track, with only the breaker and power cable needing an update...

Now here's hoping it doesn't take me another three months to figure out the software side of things...
 

Wobbly74

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Of you have one 10a breaker you will probably trip it if you need to use both urns at the same time. Cbpi will pulse the elements when maintaining temperature but will run them at 100% when ramping. So theoretically you could pre heat the HLT, then heat the water in your kettle (assuming you're mashing in your kettle and sparging from your HLT) while maintaining mash out temp in your HLT, but this will extend your brew day unless you preheat. Also, problems often arise and if you find yourself needing to heat both at the same time you'll have to stagger the heating process.
 

Lorenzo99

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Awesome, thanks for the feedback @Lorenzo99! You've given me the confidence to finally start the build!

Running a 2200w HLT (20L urn) and a 2200w kettle (30L urn). Apparently there is some CBPi wizardry (PWM) that allows the two to be used concurrently (either at a reduced voltage or they very quickly alternate, but haven't looked into it properly yet). The theory is I should have just enough juice for the 2200w for HLT/kettle + 25w for pump + 45w to run the Pi...

Have both SSRs hooked up to this heatsink, which is hopefully overkill.

The hope is for the controller to be scaleable, moving onto a bigger kettle down the track, with only the breaker and power cable needing an update...

Now here's hoping it doesn't take me another three months to figure out the software side of things...
You will definitely need a 20amp rcd/mcb you will be pulling 19.3 amps just with your HLT and your kettle running. 19.43amps with everything running. Make sure you use at least 2.5sqmm cable as well.

Best practice is to have the ssr`s hooked up to separate heat sinks.
 

Half-baked

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Thanks @Wobbly74 and @Lorenzo99.

It’s a 3v system, so if I can’t run HLT and kettle concurrently then will either a) let the sparge water cool down naturally, maybe insulating it or b) hook up the kettle to a different circuit to ramp to boiling (which is what I do now).

Still not sure about CBPi’s capability so still hoping it’s possible to c) alternate between heating HLT and kettle (e.g. 4 min to heat kettle, then 1 to bring HLT back to sparge temp).

Not planning to get a 20a plug just for a 23l batch if I can avoid it!

For reference, pic of my system is attached..
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Lorenzo99

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Thanks @Wobbly74 and @Lorenzo99.

It’s a 3v system, so if I can’t run HLT and kettle concurrently then will either a) let the sparge water cool down naturally, maybe insulating it or b) hook up the kettle to a different circuit to ramp to boiling (which is what I do now).

Still not sure about CBPi’s capability so still hoping it’s possible to c) alternate between heating HLT and kettle (e.g. 4 min to heat kettle, then 1 to bring HLT back to sparge temp).

Not planning to get a 20a plug just for a 23l batch if I can avoid it!

For reference, pic of my system is attached..
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You could always run a separate 10 amp plug through a second 10 amp circuit breaker specifically for your hlt or kettle for example out of the second circuit breaker straight to the SSR for the hlt or kettle. Providing you have nothing else in your house on the circuit you could even plug it into the same double GPO. if you do have other points on the same Circuit as long as you're not using appliances plugged in to those outlets you will have no problem
 

Wobbly74

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That's pretty much what I do - two power lines in to the control box from two different GPOs each to different SSRs but the pi controlling the 3v signal to each. One power line does kettle & pump SSRs, the other the HLT SSR and powers an external power board.
 

Half-baked

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Thanks guys, TBH enclosure doesn’t have much space, so will just run an extension cord to the kettle during the sparge.

Really only want the kettle hooked up to the Pi for hop stands and kettle sours, so can live with this...

Cheers for the help, will post pics when up and running
 

Half-baked

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Not up and running yet but thought I’d post some pictures before I get a sparky in to have a look (and do some odd jobs).

Any glaring problems, please shout out (apart from the obvious of not having the power in connected).

One thing that’s gnawing at me: do I need a monitor or will remote access be okay? Won’t be opening up the box when power is on...

Some learnings to share:
- plan what you need before you buy
- get a bigger enclosure than you think you will need
- you can go from knowing FA to having a basic understanding by putting in a bit of effort.

Cheers,
HB

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Half-baked

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Thanks @Muzzaguzza.

DIN rail is connected to the back plate, would be easier to earth that... would that be sufficient?
 

bluc

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Ok so have setup my pi zero w and I am having same issue as tumi2 with the ssr not triggering..my understanding is I should be able to use a logic level converter to switch with 5v instead of 3.3v. But cant get that to work either. I had it hooked up. 5v to
Hv/3v to lv/ 5v and 3v side grounds to ground. And I had gpio 18 to lv2 and then a lead of hv2 to the + on the ssr low voltage side...No idea why this wont work..help much appreciated..I also tested the level converter with multimeter and got 3v on lv2 and same reading hv2 so I must have it wired wrong..
 

Dubzie

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Ok so have setup my pi zero w and I am having same issue as tumi2 with the ssr not triggering..my understanding is I should be able to use a logic level converter to switch with 5v instead of 3.3v. But cant get that to work either. I had it hooked up. 5v to
Hv/3v to lv/ 5v and 3v side grounds to ground. And I had gpio 18 to lv2 and then a lead of hv2 to the + on the ssr low voltage side...No idea why this wont work..help much appreciated..I also tested the level converter with multimeter and got 3v on lv2 and same reading hv2 so I must have it wired wrong..
Use an Inkbird SSR (ebay)
Once i got one of these it fires off strait from the 3v gpio
 

Truman42

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Hi guys, keen to set up a CBPi to run my Guten and Ive already installed CBPi3 on a pi zero w. Im still a bit lost with setting up the Äctors"etc in cbpi. I set up actor 1 as element 1 and actor 2 as element 2 and then actor 3 as my pump, but it has actor 2 (element 2) connected to the pump icon. Is there a better way to do this or should I connect both elements on the guten up to the one SSR and just use the power setting to lower it for mashing?
 

Truman42

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So I finished my Craftbeer Pi controller for my Guten and am very happy with how it turned out. The main thing I wanted to acheieve from this is be able to use CBPi to control my Guten but also be able to switch back to the Gutens own controls as a back up if CBPi crashed or when I was just heating water up for cleaning etc, or if I sold the unit at some stage. Here are some pics for those interested in doing the same thing.

installed a switch connected to the elements. so one way is CBPi controls and the other is the Gutens own controls. (Yet to label it) Providing you only plug in either the Gutens power lead or the CBPis power lead you cant stuff anything up.

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Here is a schematic of how its wired.

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I installed 2 sockets in the existing cable well. 1 for the pump and 1 for the elements. It was easier than trying to cut into the Gutens stainless sidewall and they are up out of the way.

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I installed the PT100 probe in a stainless T where the tap is fitted as I didnt want to drill a separate hole just yet. But it seems to work well here so I might leave it as is. I will probably get a plug in XLr connector so I can remove the probes lead. (But I already had this setup from my herms.) The Gutens probe is an NTC so wont work with CBPi and visa versa unfortunately.. I have a sight glass tube so might change this stainless T to a Cross so I can install the sight glass on top.

Guten Pt100 probe.JPG


The probe sticks out enough to get an even temp reading.

Guten probe.JPG


Here is the CBPi box. Ive since moved the heat sink inside the box and installed a fan on the outside which works well. SSR doesnt get above 38C. Both elements are wired together as I can use pulse width modulation within CBPi to run them at a certain percentage of full power.
Ive got a Raspberry Pi 4B with a protyping hat board installed on top and used a darlington array to give the SSR 5 volts instead of the 3v3 that normally comes from the GPIOs. Although I brought an Inkbird SSR (Instead of Chinese ebay crap) Ive read too many storys of many SSRs not working well with 3v3 so went with the Darlington array setup. (Pic shows the ULN2003 darlington IC installed on the hat board.)

Hat board.JPG


Here is the control box- Power in on the left, element and pump feeding down to the IEC sockets installed under the Guten on the right. Im using a MAX31865 amplifier board to power the Pt100 probe and have a 1wire probe installed under the first heatsink fin to monitor SSR temperature.

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Very happy with how it turned out although not happy with the wiring inside the control box. I changed things around and added the Darlngton array setup, and the MAx31865 board later on so room is tight and wires are a mess. I should have used a bigger project box. It ran through the autotune no problems and i have set the mash to run at 85% of full power on the elements and the boil drops to 85% once boil has been reached so i get a nice even rolling boil.

Here is CBpi GUI showing system temp of the raspberry Pis CPU and SSR temp.

CBPI gui.png
 

#bewlife

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How did you drop the power of the individual elements?

also wondering if anyone has set this up to automate valves?
 

Justin McCabe

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Hello fellow craftbeerpi users,

I use craft beer pi and love the automation and control it provides. One thing I'd like to do is the ability to control water flow for chilling. I have a plate chiller and a solenoid connected to a TPLink smart plug. I have set the smart plug up using the TPLink plugin and I can turn on and off the water using an actor in craftbeerpi, which is very useful as I don't have a tap close by for my water mains.
What I would like to do is have the ability to turn on the water for chilling and when my kettle temp drops to say 75C turn of the water, to perform a hop stand.

Anyone know if something like this is possible with craftbeerpi ? Turn off an actor when temp drops to a specific temp ?

Thanks.
 

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