Converting A Keg

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goatherder

Fancyman of Cornwood
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I've started on an AG setup using old 50l kegs. I'm not much of a metalworker so the learning curve has been pretty steep for me. I've gotten most of my info from this site so I'd like to offer some of my learnings back by documenting my progress.

Hopefully some of this will be useful for other newbies like me. I'll keep adding to it as I progress.

Drilling a keg: http://goatherder.googlepages.com/drillingakeg
 
After having drilled hundreds of holes in stainless steel, I have concluded that on the 8Th God invented Plasma cutters for a very good reason.

Bring on the 4Th state of matter you live close enough next time bring the job in and we will do it the easy way.

MHB
 
Nice work Goatherder. I've got to say though those bimetal hoesaws (21mm for a 20mm threaded pipe) work really nicely and quickly. I've cut several holes so far without it looking like wearing. It takes less than a minute to get through a keg with some spray lubricant. I just put the barrel on its side and sit on it. The holesaw costs about $20 the arbour is the killer at around $40.

You reminded me about ocassions where I've filed down the end end of a SS spearfishing spear so I could drill a hole through it. Not much fun at all, and the blisters ;)

Good luck with the setting up of your kit.

Scott
 
goatherder said:
I've started on an AG setup using old 50l kegs. I'm not much of a metalworker so the learning curve has been pretty steep for me. I've gotten most of my info from this site so I'd like to offer some of my learnings back by documenting my progress.

Hopefully some of this will be useful for other newbies like me. I'll keep adding to it as I progress.

Drilling a keg: http://goatherder.googlepages.com/drillingakeg
[post="117932"][/post]​

Nice job on the webpages, Goatherder. One question if I may re your thermometer installation - did you install the thermometer probe within the threaded brass tube to protect the probe from wayward spoons etc?

Cheers,
TL
 
goatherder

nice webpage easy to follow and alot of thought as well this would be a treat to publish on this site as well speak to pistol patch and show him this as he and others are putting together a infopedia and this is a great itroduction to an allgrain section as it is not over the top and complicated .

keep up the site i am going to book mark this for future references .and thanks once again .

delboy :beer:
 
goatherder, thats exactly how I did the holes in my kegs, but to finish the hole I used a file with one flat side and one curved side. The curved side was the perfect radius to get a nice round hole for a 3/4 thread.

I have never heard of using a silicone baking dish, great idea :beer:
 
Thanks for the support guys, appreciate it. I'll keep updating as I go.

MHB: I had the tops cut out with a plasma cutter - not a bad job but there was plenty of splatter on the inside. What do you reckon is the best way to clean it off?

sah: The arbour for the holesaw stopped it for me. But if it is that easy to cut the holes, it's probably worth it. I was expecting a harder time of it than you have indicated, so I went with the cheap option.

TL: I originally grabbed the long threaded tube because that was all they had - the threaded nipples at Bunnings were way too short. The idea of protecting the thermometer did occur to me when I was piecing it all together at home. I'll see how the tube goes on the first few brews - if it gets in the road then I will cut it off. I just hope I won't have any trouble with the mash sticking in the tube and affecting the temp reading.

delboy: thanks, i was hoping to keep it simple for beginners like me. i'd be happy to contribute the material to a site like you are describing.

Jye: Spot on with the half-round file. Especially as you finish off the hole. I remember thinking to myself as I was filing "a half-round file would be heaps better here". I might add that tip to the site. BTW, the baking dish wasn't my idea, I pinched it from a post here somewhere. I'll have to dig it up again so I can give the credit!
 
On the silicone washers:

I'm just completing an AG setup too. I used ordinary fibre tap washers. I've used the kettle a few times with these in place and haven't had a problem yet.

Should I expect trouble?

thanks
Scott
 
Top Job Goatherder! Im off to big dub tomorrow!

Interested to see a few photos of your mash tun are you using a false bottom ? or S/S braided hose ?
 
You need a geek every so often :blink: to put on a web site.
Good stuff... You don't want to know about my first go at drilling SS :blink:
 
BennyBrewster said:
Top Job Goatherder! Im off to big dub tomorrow!

Interested to see a few photos of your mash tun are you using a false bottom ? or S/S braided hose ?
[post="118156"][/post]​

I'm planning on a SS false bottom - probably the one from grain and grape. The budget is a bit strained at the moment after the Bunnings binge so I'll be doing the first couple of brews with a grain bag. And I still need to get a burner and copper for an immersion chiller... :(
 
Goatherder top job,

I too am assembling/buying the gear needed to go all grain brewing and have purchased the said SS false bottom from G & G. Top bit of kit I reckon.

Have you thought about using the "NO Chiller" method as outlined by Ray on this forum No Chiller Method, instead of build ing a chiller?

I am going to try this method from the get go as it seems to me to have some merit for newbies such as myself. ie less that can go wrong, & don't have to build/buy something that I may not need!

I know that there has been some debate about this, not meaning to start the debate again or hijack the thread. :ph34r:

Just a thought. :blink:

Cheers,

Smashed Jaffa.

edit:speljinhuing
 
Dont drill....... See mark and go the plasma. If you havnt seen one of these in action before you will be amazed.

We have one in our workshop at work and i lug all my stainless kegs and parts in to chop cut and modify.

Its like cutting gift wrap paper with a scalpel, its that quick and neat.

And i use fiber washers inn all my taps ect. I have never had a single drop leak from them. I put a SS washer on the outside of the fiber washers and screw too futtings together to seal the whole, works great.

Hey goatherder, i used to live in castlereigh St in singo :)

Worked on construction at the Red Bank Power Station

cheers
 
Tony said:
Hey goatherder, i used to live in castlereigh St in singo :)

Worked on construction at the Red Bank Power Station

cheers
[post="118185"][/post]​

The good news is that there is at least one pub serving coopers in town now! That's a big step for around here I reckon. B)
 
aw shuks goatherder thanks for the mention re the silicone cookware (see post #9 here

Great website !
Hey only slightly off topic, Red Dot in WA has 20L stock pots for $10 this week !
Cheers
Doug :)
 
The idea of protecting the thermometer did occur to me when I was piecing it all together at home. I'll see how the tube goes on the first few brews - if it gets in the road then I will cut it off. I just hope I won't have any trouble with the mash sticking in the tube and affecting the temp reading.

When I finally get some thermometers I was thinking of using a threaded tube with 2 sides cut off, just have the 2 remaining side of the tube on the sides of the probe (not the top and bottom). This will allow the mash/wort to move over the probe, will be easy to clean and you can go nuts with the spoon without fear of bending or snapping the probe.
 
Hey Guys,
Thought i might post a little help for when you are working with stainless, slow your drilling speeds down to 1/3 of mild steel speeds and in regareds to drilling. A pilot hole needs only to be 2/3 of your final diameter, no need for all those drills Goathearder. Hope this helps, Ive gotten plenty of knowledge from reading all the other posts.
CHEERS :super:
 
Nice setup Goat Herder !!!




and for future reference when dealing with s/s use a cutting compound and a decent hole saw will eat it like a hot knife on butter..
 
Hey Guys,
Thought i might post a little help for when you are working with stainless, slow your drilling speeds down to 1/3 of mild steel speeds and in regareds to drilling. A pilot hole needs only to be 2/3 of your final diameter, no need for all those drills Goathearder. Hope this helps, Ive gotten plenty of knowledge from reading all the other posts.
CHEERS :super:

Yep, dead on Chuck. I discovered that little tidbit when I did my HLT recently. I drill 3/8 then 1/2 then whip out the rat tail. I'd best update the web page.
 
I just used a "Knock out punch" Also known as a conduit punch. worked great, and perfectly clean hole.

What kind of cutting compound do you mean?
 
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