Chilling wort pre fermentation.

[Dave70]

I'm generally to lazy and greedy to ensure no hot break ends up in the fermenter, but next time round I'd like to get things as clear as possible.
The plan was to chill as per usual, then transfer the cube into the keezer and have it sit at 1-2 deg for a day then take it out, rack to the fermenter and proceed as normal.
The idea being to help all the proteins and trubby bits to drop out and leave the wort clear as possible. Undoubtedly there are more efficient methods, like buying a Braumeister, but I'm just working with what I've got.
Sound like it would work?

 

[New_guy]

error

 

[MaltyHops]

I can identify with not wanting to lose any wort after all the hard work and for me, it's usually the last litre or so of wort that cops the hot break so I drain the last litre or so into a jug and it's almost no time before the hot break settles out. I then pour the wort off into a saucepan for a quick boil and then into a flask I use for making starters and foil capped to cool off. Meanwhile the main wort has been pitched and when the last bit has cooled enough, it gets poured into the fermenter. This avoids delaying pitching yeast.

 

[damoninja]

I whirlpool first, then I generally get a small amount of trubbish settle in the bottom of my cubes, the last one I did I transferred out using a tap so I could control it when it started pouring close to the bottom, got minimal trub in my fermenter, if any at all.

Settling the last bit out and using it for starters is a great idea, I'm gonna start doing this.

 

[dougsbrew]

I'm generally to lazy and greedy to ensure no hot break ends up in the fermenter, but next time round I'd like to get things as clear as possible.
The plan was to chill as per usual, then transfer the cube into the keezer and have it sit at 1-2 deg for a day then take it out, rack to the fermenter and proceed as normal.
The idea being to help all the proteins and trubby bits to drop out and leave the wort clear as possible. Undoubtedly there are more efficient methods, like buying a Braumeister, but I'm just working with what I've got.
Sound like it would work?

Not really clear on the 'chill as per usual' bit, I assume no chill method.
I find that the hot break sits on the bottom pretty much straight after the boil.
Cold break happens around low 30s, and wort is really clear around 25.
You may get it slightly clearer if you dropped it down to 2, I wouldn't bother.
Is it chill haze your trying to combat, I have prefiltered wort before but it made
no difference so that method got canned.

 

[Dave70]

Not really clear on the 'chill as per usual' bit, I assume no chill method.
I find that the hot break sits on the bottom pretty much straight after the boil.
Cold break happens around low 30s, and wort is really clear around 25.
You may get it slightly clearer if you dropped it down to 2, I wouldn't bother.
Is it chill haze your trying to combat, I have prefiltered wort before but it made
no difference so that method got canned.

On malty beers with little hop profile, mostly. But most of my brews get the copper pipe immersion chiller treatment.
Maby just having another beer and letting settle out in between chilling and draining my be all that's needed.

Patience really isn't my strong suit.

 

[Not For Horses]

That will work fine Dave. Another brewer I know will quite often rack to the fermenter the day after brewing to let all the break settle out. Pretty sure he's done it that way for years.

 

[Donske]

On malty beers with little hop profile, mostly. But most of my brews get the copper pipe immersion chiller treatment.
Maby just having another beer and letting settle out in between chilling and draining my be all that's needed.

Patience really isn't my strong suit.

Haha, I brew with someone who has no patience, I find beer a good way to stop him trying to speed up the process.