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Jords84

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For future beers I have found that for most standard ales/ale yeasts 18oC for the first few days and when fermentation slows move to 20oC and maybe 220C for the last few days before cooling/packaging. The lower temp at the beginning reduces esters/fusels production and rising temp helps keep fermentation going and gives the yeast the energy to clean up the beer at the end.
Thanks very much for the advice. I think is what I’ve managed to do so I reckon it’ll be ready to bottle tomorrow.
 

CaptainMachSnot

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1.015, could still go lower, mine usually finish in the range of 1.012 to 1.009. Make sure your sg is the exact same tomorrow, else its not done. For the next couple of weeks, keep it at fermenting temps (18 to 20, maybe even as high as 22) till it's carbed.
 

Jords84

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1.015, could still go lower, mine usually finish in the range of 1.012 to 1.009. Make sure your sg is the exact same tomorrow, else its not done. For the next couple of weeks, keep it at fermenting temps (18 to 20, maybe even as high as 22) till it's carbed.
No worries. Thanks again. It’s been at 1012 for the last couple of days so I’m going to bottle it. It’s going to be pretty hot here over the next few days and weeks. Any homemade way suggestions on how I can keep it between 18-22?
 

CaptainMachSnot

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Apart from keeping it in the middle of the house, not really. I was having trouble regulating my temps, so set up a freezer with controller, never have to worry about it now, and made a big difference to the quality of my beer. Used to not be able to brew in the middle of summer. Could try some kveik yeast next time, can use that at higher temps.
 

CaptainMachSnot

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Reading back through your posts, i thought you were using a fermentation chamber. If you are, just wack the bottles back in and jam the probe somewhere in the middle of all the bottles. Or start a new batch and wedge the bottles around the fermenter. Both should be around the same temp, unless you decide to do a lager
 

Jords84

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I’m just using a pale fermenter. Do you reckon putting a bit of water in an esky and putting them in there would work?
 

CaptainMachSnot

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Prob wrap a towel around them, reaching the water so the evaporation cools them. Cant see why it wouldn't, thats how people keep their fermenters cool. If you neet to cool them even more, point a pedestal fan at them as well
 

Jimmymac

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It’s all good. We all know the old saying about opinions and a##holes. Everyone is entitled to one. It actually tastes alright and the sg has dropped to 1015. So I might bottle it tomorrow arvo.
1015 sounds like a high Final Gravity for a "new" style beer. Probably best to hold off another couple of days to see if hydrometer readings are steady. Lack of airlock activity may indicate a poor seal somewhere. No need to rush finish.
 

kadmium

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1015 sounds like a high Final Gravity for a "new" style beer. Probably best to hold off another couple of days to see if hydrometer readings are steady. Lack of airlock activity may indicate a poor seal somewhere. No need to rush finish.
1.070 to 1.015 is 78% attenuation, and I know with a lot of "new" style IPA the FG can be around 1.020.

Even a true, dry clean crisp boho pils should be 1.013
 

Jords84

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1.070 to 1.015 is 78% attenuation, and I know with a lot of "new" style IPA the FG can be around 1.020.

Even a true, dry clean crisp boho pils should be 1.013
I bottled last night as it’d been that sg for days. Do you reckon they’ll explode?
 

philrob

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78% apparent attenuation is pretty good. I don't think you'll have any problems if your reading has been the same for days.
 

CaptainMachSnot

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So quick question, if im going down to 1.012 to 1.009, is something not quite right? Tested my hydrometer in 20⁰C tap water, and was 1.000
 

carrobrew

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So quick question, if im going down to 1.012 to 1.009, is something not quite right? Tested my hydrometer in 20⁰C tap water, and was 1.000
It'll be different depending on what recipe/style you are brewing. A dryer thinner body beer will finish with a lot lower FG than a more full bodied beer.

Think of the difference between a Dry Pilsner or Brut IPA vs an Oatmeal stout or Oatcream IPA. The unfermentable sugars and adjuncts in an oatmeal stout or Oatcream will mean a much higher FG than a drier beer which has has most of the sugars turned into alcohol.

That's just the tip of the iceberg as well, things like Mash temp, yeast used, fermentation schedule will all affect the final FG.
 
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carrobrew

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I found this after a quick look.


After the stuff the start of the article it has a bunch of style guidelines expected FGs when brewing to style. Of course as homebrewers and even commercial brewers are not always brewing to style but thought it was interesting to show the differences.
 

CaptainMachSnot

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Just wondering, cause my brews always end up with a lower sg than expected. I have been running mainly k&k (extra stuff added by me), or liquid malts and bittering/hopping myself. The one biab i have done (19l bigw pot) ended up exactly where expected. Just wanted to know as im eyeing off a guten/brewzilla, and can always use a bit of advice
 

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