Brewing In Winter

[samleske2000]

What is the best way to keep beer at an optimum fermenting temperature, without spending too much money, or going to too much trouble? Do things like heat mats exist?

Cheers

 

[pokolbinguy]

Yes you can buy heat mats and belts. Some are sceptic of their use but I have only used a belt a few times.

Alternatively you can use a fish tank heater but you will want to make sure it is sanitsed before use. Others use a fermentation "cupboard" which has a light bulb or some other source of heat inside.

Cheers, Pok

 

[samleske2000]

Yes you can buy heat mats and belts. Some are sceptic of their use but I have only used a belt a few times.

Alternatively you can use a fish tank heater but you will want to make sure it is sanitsed before use. Others use a fermentation "cupboard" which has a light bulb or some other source of heat inside.

Cheers, Pok

Cheers mate

 

[itguy1953]

What is the best way to keep beer at an optimum fermenting temperature, without spending too much money, or going to too much trouble? Do things like heat mats exist?

Cheers

Why not switch to a lager yeast? These ferment at low temps, and perform at their best at 10-12 degC. I use these in Winter in Melbourne, and do not heat the brew at all. Temp falls to well below 10 degC overnight, and warms up to just under 20degC during the day. As there is a fair bit of thermal mass in the fermenter, the wort temp will range from approx 8 to 12 degC.

Saflager S23 is a great lager yeast. It ferments very cleanly, but can take 2-3 weeks to finish.

Give S23 a try and I think that you will be impressed.

Barry

 

[samleske2000]

Why not switch to a lager yeast? These ferment at low temps, and perform at their best at 10-12 degC. I use these in Winter in Melbourne, and do not heat the brew at all. Temp falls to well below 10 degC overnight, and warms up to just under 20degC during the day. As there is a fair bit of thermal mass in the fermenter, the wort temp will range from approx 8 to 12 degC.

Saflager S23 is a great lager yeast. It ferments very cleanly, but can take 2-3 weeks to finish.

Give S23 a try and I think that you will be impressed.

Barry

Oh right, is this type of yeast beer specific? Can I use it with anything? Sorry to sound dumb, just want to get the right details! Cheers

 

[itguy1953]

Oh right, is this type of yeast beer specific? Can I use it with anything? Sorry to sound dumb, just want to get the right details! Cheers

Never tried it with anything else, but it ferments dextrose fully, so I assume it will ferment any sugar. If you are trying to ferment sugar to get a high ABV %, then beware, not all beer yeasts cannot handle worts with ABV above 7-8%. This is unlike Champagne yeast that can handle up to 18% ABV.

If you invest in S23, you can keep some of the yeast from your first brew and use it in the next brew. You can do this approx 10 times before you should buy a new packet of yeast.

Have a search for yeast propagation tips on the forum. There are many ways to recycle or extend the use of your yeast. You do need to be careful though as if you get an infection in one brew, and you use the yeast from this brew to start another brew, it to will be infected.

S23 produces virtually no flavours by itself. It leaves the wort clean, allow the hop flavours to come through. By some imported Pilsners from the bottle shop and give them a try. They are fermented with a yeast like S23.

Barry

 

[0M39A]

I use a heatbelt plugged into a fridgemate for winter brewing.

set the fridgemate to whatever temperature i want and forget about it.

I've never liked the idea of heatpads, as all the heat is going into the yeastcake.

alternatively, if its too cold for ales, brew lagers ready for summer

 

[Linz]

Water bed heater pad..comes with a dial for temp control...set at its lowest the fermenter only hits 20oC

 

[Uncle Fester]

Samleske, Where are you located? temperature conrol methods vary greatly between north and south. (assuming you are in Oz in the first place).

I find in Canberra, the ambient temp in my brew room is 17 degrees through winter. Allowing for the exothermic quality of the brewing process, I brew ales at 18 degrees without any assistance.

If I am brewing a wheat which needs tobe 20 degrees, then I use a heat pad and a $6.00 timer from the warehouse (one of the units with 4 switch settings per hour). I set it to 1 hour on, 3 hours off, and tweak it as I need it.


In summer,the ambient temp of the brewery rises to about 24 degrees. I use a display fridge as a brew fridge on its warmes setting. This maintains 12 degrees spot on - perfect for lagers. I use the same timer with the fridge for ales, and again, a duty cycle of 1 hour on 3 ours off maintains 18 degrees in the fermenter.


A little bit of trial and error, and you need to tweak the settings a tad if you have an unexpected warm/cold spell, but it works well for me.




Brew on,


Fester.

 

[NME69]

I have a small wooden box (which I pinched from work HEHE) It's big enough to fit two brewers in it .The walls are covered in styrofoam for insullation and there is one heat pad which is shared by both the two fermenters. I think it works well.
The box was free. foam was scavenged and I all ready had the heat pad. B)

 

[Brewtus]

If you can keep it somewhere where the air is still and the ambient temp not too low and put a blanket around it and something to insulate the base then the yeasties will keep themselves warm as it is an exothermic reaction. Mind you if it stops you need to warm it to get it going again.

 

[Cortez The Killer]

I find that a fermentation fridge contains the heat from fermentation in winter

As a fermenting brew is exothermic it seems to warm up the inside of the fridge and the fridge will only kick in if it gets too warm

No that it seems to get too cool during winter in wollongong any more

I do notice that with an indoor outdoor thermometer that the garage is a few degrees cooler than inside the fridge

It's always an option of you go down that track

Cheers

 

[Jerry]

If I am brewing a wheat which needs tobe 20 degrees, then I use a heat pad and a $6.00 timer from the warehouse (one of the units with 4 switch settings per hour). I set it to 1 hour on, 3 hours off, and tweak it as I need it.


Fester.

Do the same thing.

I also wrap a blanket loosely around the fermenter to keep the heat in and I have a piece of cardboard between the heat pad and the fermenter so the base doesn't get too hot.

Scott

 

[Daawl]

Another good option if SWMBO wont like you borrowing/stealing the blanket is the cheap rubber camping mats. Wrap around fermenter and you can cut to size and tape it up so all you have to do is slip it on & off as needed. If you are in a really cold area you can then just get a carboard box big enough for it to all fit in and as it ferments and creates its own heat it gets trapped and only has to warm up the area in the box while the mat keeps it warm. I have done this in the past, before building an insulated temp control box.


Edit: I now just do Lager's instead in winter.

 

[Kleiny]

Put my fermenter in the laundry for ales as it keeps it at 16C constant
lagers are fine out the shed in an old freezer that no longer works and they hold 11C constant this is great if you are using atrue lager yeast

 

[Boozums]

One thing to watch for in colder conditions is where you store the bottles during the secondary fermentation period. I'd got into the habit of leaving my bottles in the garage throughout the summer as it was cooler than the room I'd been using since I started brewing last September.

We got a cold snap a few weeks ago and I knew I'd screwed up as soon as I tasted a bottle that appeared to be at least 4 weeks behind in the secondary fermentation process, it was far too sweet. I've had everything back inside for over a month now, some beers are showing signs of recovery but one batch (Lion Real Ale) is still undrinkable.

While I'm at it, I recently heard I could tip the residue yeast in my fermenter over my vegetables instead of biffing it down the sink. I like the sound of this, I feel bad junking yeast I don't want to save after it has worked so hard for me. Any truth in this?

 

[drsmurto]

I have my fermenters out in the shed (Adelaide Hills = bloody freezing).

They are insulated from the concrete floor with a double thickness of cardboard and then they are wrapped in and old sleeping bag (which on brew day is wrapped around the mash tun). I have a heat pad which sits on its edge next to a fermenter. I turn that on for 4 hours when i get home from work and ham having no troubles keeping the fermenters at 18C (i have a conical of water with a thermometer in it to get ambient temp under the sleeping bag).

But , having said all that, i should be brewing lagers at this time of the year.......

 

[devo]

I've found that the last 2 ales I've fermented this winter to be the most stable since setting up a brewcraft heat pad, fridgemate controller and a sheet of air-cell insulation. Set at 19c I've only really ever noticed a plus or minus shift of 1 degree regardless if I'm using a 30ltr or 60ltr barrel which is quite acceptable in my books.

The ambient temp in my garage seems to be around 15c at the mo.

 

[Cocko]

FRIDGE MATE w/NTC probe + HEATBELT in a DEAD FRIDGE!

Variables or 1 deg. - Gotta be happy with that!

Samleske2000 - Spend a little coin and get your temp control sorted it is as important as feeding your children!


:icon_cheers:

 

[Screwtop]

Most important factor in using any yeast - STABLE FERMENTATION TEMP = Non fluctuating.

Yeast will give up if temp drops during fermentation and can be difficult/impossible to get going again.