Brewers Please Give Your Honest A Opinion

[SJW]

Your statement was still ambiguous.

Of course you meant I get 200g at the same price per kg as a tonne, but you didn't say that.

point taken................Engrish was never my strong sunject at skool. I never was one for all that book learnin, yall.

 

[Parks]

:icon_offtopic:
I quite often find what I write, and what I think I write are 2 very different things...

point taken................English was never my strong sunject at school. I never was one for all that book learnin, yall.

 

[glenwal]

:icon_offtopic:
I quite often find what I write, and what I think I write are 2 very different things...

Like when a girl says no but she really means yes? :icon_chickcheers:

 

[Parks]

Like when a girl says no but she really means yes? :icon_chickcheers:

I don't ever recall a girl saying no, that is to say I didn't hear it h34r:

 

[Bogan333]

Brew Cellar state that the Premium lager yeast CAN be brewed at 12-18oC but I would be scared of brewing a lager at 18oC. Don't expect it to be good beer and don't expect it to be a lager.

Get your fermentation fridge temperature controller sorted! This is a very basic thing but can make a huge difference. This is just one of a number of the little things that make the difference between apparently good beer and fantastic beer.

I assume you are moving to all grain beers after 20 years of goop brewing because you want to make better beer/experiment with flavours/get more satisfaction etc? Even good goop beer needs temperature controlled fermentation to make it good. I am suprised that you do not already have a temperature controlling device after so long in the goop game.

Not trying to be rude but did you learn anything during 20 years of goop brewing or did you just follow the can label everytime? Following the label makes beer, doing stuff that is not on the label/directions makes great beer.

Sounds to me like you are trying to brew all grain beer according to the goop can directions.

G'day Malted, Like I said before the 4th AG is sitting in my kegerator @ 12c
And when you are saying goop you mean extract brewing yer?
With extract brewing I've always had it around about 22c to 28c
like with my two current extract brew's they are sitting @ 24c inside the brick fire place of the house because it give a general consistency temperature. And YES after 20 years of extract brewing I have learnt a lot trying different things, but you get to a point where you can't do any more. So now with the all the children have moved out and a little bit more money I have moved up to the next level of home brew.
Last weekend I bought a new fridge so the old one is going to be my temperature controller and lagering fridge.With help of some people on this site pointed me to ebay to buy temperature controller thermostat STC-1000 with all fingers crossed I should get it next week.When starting out to do AG it is a big out lay to buy the basic equipment.

 

[Parks]

G'day Malted, Like I said before the 4th AG is sitting in my kegerator @ 12c
And when you are saying goop you mean extract brewing yer?
With extract brewing I've always had it around about 22c to 28c
like with my two current extract brew's they are sitting @ 24c inside the brick fire place of the house because it give a general consistency temperature. And YES after 20 years of extract brewing I have learnt a lot trying different things, but you get to a point where you can't do any more. So now with the all the children have moved out and a little bit more money I have moved up to the next level of home brew.
Last weekend I bought a new fridge so the old one is going to be my temperature controller and lagering fridge.With help of some people on this site pointed me to ebay to buy temperature controller thermostat STC-1000 with all fingers crossed I should get it next week.When starting out to do AG it is a big out lay to buy the basic equipment.

It's just really unfortunate that no-one hammered home the temperature bit earlier to you. You would be so much further along in your brewing.

22 deg is pretty much the hottest you want any ale yeast (yes there are exceptions, but not many).

 

[Bogan333]

It's just really unfortunate that no-one hammered home the temperature bit earlier to you. You would be so much further along in your brewing.

22 deg is pretty much the hottest you want any ale yeast (yes there are exceptions, but not many).

G'day Parks I've always know about the temperature. But I didn't have the luxury until this year to buy a second fridge or to run it, so you make do what you got and yes it is hard to keep the temperature down in Perth during the summer months.

 

[Malted]

G'day Malted, Like I said before the 4th AG is sitting in my kegerator @ 12c
And when you are saying goop you mean extract brewing yer?
With extract brewing I've always had it around about 22c to 28c
like with my two current extract brew's they are sitting @ 24c inside the brick fire place of the house because it give a general consistency temperature. And YES after 20 years of extract brewing I have learnt a lot trying different things, but you get to a point where you can't do any more. So now with the all the children have moved out and a little bit more money I have moved up to the next level of home brew.
Last weekend I bought a new fridge so the old one is going to be my temperature controller and lagering fridge.With help of some people on this site pointed me to ebay to buy temperature controller thermostat STC-1000 with all fingers crossed I should get it next week.When starting out to do AG it is a big out lay to buy the basic equipment.

12oC great. My mistake, sorry.
Goop = stuff out of a can whether it be extract or a kit. It can be a derogatory term used by all grain snobs for pretty much anything other than all grain brews. Or it can be a term used by cheeky buggers.

As Parks highlighted, fermentation temperature is important and 28oC is far too hot for Ales (albeit a couple of exceptions).
The stc1000 is a great device and couple it with your new brewing fridge (albeit recycled from the kitchen) and this, our new brewing friend, will move you up a level.

Sorry if I sounded harsh, maybe I am being a bit too honest. The kit instructions say to brew at 22-28oC and this is complete rubbish. I got the feeling that you have been brewing according to the kit instructions and this confirms it for me. I will state this again: Following the label makes beer, doing stuff that is not on the label/directions makes great beer. Even Fermentis who make Safale American Ale dry yeast US-05, say it's fermentation temperature range is 15-24oC. Yes it could be brewed at 24oC, in theory, but for clean brewing free from off flavours you would probably want to brew in the range of 18 to 22oC at the most. I'd go as far as to say 18,19 or 20oC would be optimal for clean flavours. I am sure more experienced brewers could clarify this.

Yes starting all grain can be expensive, it depends on how complex you want the process and your equipment to be. Be careful, building up a brewing system yourself is addictive and leads to purchasing lots of expensive shiny things.

Now with your stc1000 you are on the right track. It is about time I pulled my head in and exited stage left. There is lots of useful information on this forum, have a good read. Most importantly, I hope you are soon able to fully enjoy the fruits of your all grain brewing labour.

Edit: just read you post above that you wrote whilst I was writing this. STC1000 - she'll soon be all bonza.

 

[Bogan333]

12oC great. My mistake, sorry.
Goop = stuff out of a can whether it be extract or a kit. It can be a derogatory term used by all grain snobs for pretty much anything other than all grain brews. Or it can be a term used by cheeky buggers.

As Parks highlighted, fermentation temperature is important and 28oC is far too hot for Ales (albeit a couple of exceptions).
The stc1000 is a great device and couple it with your new brewing fridge (albeit recycled from the kitchen) and this, our new brewing friend, will move you up a level.

Sorry if I sounded harsh, maybe I am being a bit too honest. The kit instructions say to brew at 22-28oC and this is complete rubbish. I got the feeling that you have been brewing according to the kit instructions and this confirms it for me. I will state this again: Following the label makes beer, doing stuff that is not on the label/directions makes great beer. Even Fermentis who make Safale American Ale dry yeast US-05, say it's fermentation temperature range is 15-24oC. Yes it could be brewed at 24oC, in theory, but for clean brewing free from off flavours you would probably want to brew in the range of 18 to 22oC at the most. I'd go as far as to say 18,19 or 20oC would be optimal for clean flavours. I am sure more experienced brewers could clarify this.

Yes starting all grain can be expensive, it depends on how complex you want the process and your equipment to be. Be careful, building up a brewing system yourself is addictive and leads to purchasing lots of expensive shiny things.

Now with your stc1000 you are on the right track. It is about time I pulled my head in and exited stage left. There is lots of useful information on this forum, have a good read. Most importantly, I hope you are soon able to fully enjoy the fruits of your all grain brewing labour.

Edit: just read you post above that you wrote whilst I was writing this. STC1000 - she'll soon be all bonza.

Like I said to Parks I've always know about the temperature. But I didn't have the luxury until this year to buy a second fridge or to run it, so you make do with what you got and yes it is hard to keep the temperature down in Perth during the summer months.

 

[Parks]

Like I said to Parks I've always know about the temperature. But I didn't have the luxury until this year to buy a second fridge or to run it, so you make do with what you got and yes it is hard to keep the temperature down in Perth during the summer months.

At least you know how we feel now

Just remember, for the price of a few brews (especially considering what you were paying per brew) you can buy a fridge and temp control.

After good sanitation practises temp control must be second. Start there before trying to fix any flavour issues next.

And, as others have said, take a highly ranked and simple recipe like Smurtos Golden Ale or Ross' Summer Ale and go from there. Always start with a known good recipe first then work from there.

 

[sim]

QUOTE (SJW @ May 4 2012, 10:43 AM) Sorry Sim, I will spell it out for you. If you had read the entier thread earlier they were talking about 380% mark up on small amounts of grain. My point is.....if you gave a good local HBS they should not be screwing you for small amounts of grain even though they are entitiled to charge more for the extra handling of small amounts.

Your statement was still ambiguous.

Of course you meant I get 200g at the same price per kg as a tonne, but you didn't say that.

ahh yes. :icon_offtopic: For the record i dont comment in a thread unless ive read it all - Shits me when threads/posts dont make sense or are unnecessarily long. Anywho, carry on. Good luck to the OP'er.

 

[Bogan333]

G'day All
I just finished racking the brew the Reading before racking was 1.007 Fermentation Temperature 12c Primary 7 days.
I had a taste, bloody beautiful No off flavors Light little malt and very refreshing Aroma: very fruity mainly from the Galaxy hops.
I've put it back into the fridge at a very low Temperature for Largering it will stay in there for 4 weeks min.

 

[Bogan333]

Brew Day is finished

13/05/2012
Grain Bill
5.500kg JW EXPORT PILSNER MALT
300gm JW WHEAT MALT

Hop Bill
Perle Pellet 49.50g 90min's Boil
Haulertau Southern Pellet 12g 15 min's Boil
Perle Pellet 12g 15min's Boil
Haulertau Southern Pellet 12g 0 min's Aroma
Perle Pellet 12g 0 min's Aroma

Whirlfloc 1 Talbet 15 min's boil
Wyeast 2007 Pilsen Lager with two cups of water and one cup of DME made on 12-05-12



Batch size 29.0L Spring Water

OG 1.049
FG TBA
ABV TBA
EBC 6
IBU 36.3
Efficiency 80%
AA% 78
BU:GU Ratio 0.74
Balance Vale 1.74
Boil Time 90 min's

Fermentation Temperature 9c
Primary TBA
Secondary TBA

 

[bignath]

Wyeast 2007 Pilsen Lager with two cups of water and one cup of DME made on 12-05-12

Ummm, not sure where you got those quantities from for making a starter, but that looks strange to me.

I am under the belief that starter worts for yeast should be between 1.030 and 1.040 ideally, with most people quoting closer to 1.040 as "the mark".

Just put those quantities into Brewmate, it won't let me do a .5lt (2 cups) size, but at 1lt, adding 250g (1 cup) of DME would give you close to 1.100 - not sure that's a good idea. Not sure it's a bad idea either, just pointing it out.

From memory, when i used to "start" yeasts, i'm sure the ratio should be a lot closer to 100g DME to 1lt for an approx appropriate gravity.

Wolfy will know.....

 

[Bogan333]

miss type 1/2 of cup DME

 

[bignath]

miss type 1/2 of cup DME

yep, that's a bit better.