Brand new ball-lock post basically not sealing at all - how do they se

[mr_wibble]

Hey-yas,

So I started converting my pin-lock kegs to ball-lock (no real reason, except that I can't get pin-lock stuff at any LHBS, despite them selling me the pin-lock kegs in the first place )

I started with a (previously-ball-lock before I pin-locked it) keg, and re-posted it with brand new ball-lock posts (o-rings, poppets, everything). Lubed it all with food-grade silicon spray-lube. Disconnects are the "German made" ones. There's a new o-ring on the gas dip-tube too.

When I screw the post down onto the keg, I basically just turn it with my fingers, and it hits a stop - I assume the end of the thread, without ever being tight.
Naturally when the gas is connected it absolutely whooshes out the bottom of the post.

I'm not really sure what to do here. I tried tightening it with the spanner, it did not move, and really seems to be at its limit.

I thought perhaps I could add a second o-ring to the gas dip-tube to raise it up a bit. But this sounds dodgey.
I could also thread-tape the crap out of the keg-top where it screws on - but you're not supposed to need/use tape.

Any ideas?

I don't understand how the inside of the post actually makes a seal. Does the dip-tube o-ring come out to seal on the inside of the post?

thanks,
-kt

 

[n87]

I believe the dip tube o-ring seals against the bore of the post.
Shouldn't need compression to have contact.
The dip tube does need to be tightened down so the oring seals between it and the keg.

How many gas disconnects do you have? It may be coming from the disconnects-post seal too, making it feel like it is coming out of the bottom of the post.

Did you replace the dip tube o ring? (You say you replaced orings, but didn't specifically say.)

Lastly, I have a keg that I tried to replace the posts on, but the new posts didn't actually screw down far enough to seal the dip tube. I don't suppose you kept the old posts?

 

[klangers]

I had that before too.

I just put an o ring that fit inside the disconnect / on the rim of the post. Then when you tighten it will seal against the upper/inner face of the disconnect. It's not dodgy - it's just that some disconnects have more thread than some posts onto which they screw, or don't quite work together. This is still a sanitary solution.

$2 mixed O ring kit from bunnings comes in handy!

 

[n87]

I had that before too.

I just put an o ring that fit inside the disconnect / on the rim of the post. Then when you tighten it will seal against the upper/inner face of the disconnect. It's not dodgy - it's just that some disconnects have more thread than some posts onto which they screw, or don't quite work together. This is still a sanitary solution.

$2 mixed O ring kit from bunnings comes in handy!

I guess a second o-ring on the diptube would do much the same thing without a chance of blocking the tube?

 

[pcmfisher]

There is 2 or 3 different thread sizes for corny keg posts. Do you have the correct ones?

 

[klangers]

I guess a second o-ring on the diptube would do much the same thing without a chance of blocking the tube?

not really, as you still have a metal to metal contact. The o ring shouldn't block the tube - it's not meant to be tightened to within an inch of it's life.

 

[mr_wibble]

I just bought whatever keg post was available.
I did replace the dip-tube o-ring.
I only have a single gas-disconnect in ball-lock (many in pin-lock)
I do have the old posts, I guess I should at least try them - they're fairly worn though.

thanks for the help,
-kt