BIAB pot size?

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Pat0_smith

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Hey guys I'm looking for a new stock pot for doing BIAB. My uncle has a high quality one from his restraunt that he is happy to give me. It is 40l, I only make 10l batches, with about 14l of strike water. Do you thinking getting a pot that big to make such small batches is pointless or would it work just as well as say a new 20l stock pot.
 
I will when i start kegging, but for now i really don't like having to bottle that much beer at once and when making experimental beers if they don't turn out great, 10l isn't to much to get through.
 
It will work with smaller batches, you will just get more boil-off. Adjust strike/sparge volume to compensate.

Think of it as future-proofing.
 
I use a similar sized pot (~45L) for a 12L end of boil batch. It works well for me, though I find I do lose more heat during the mash than a normal sized batch, but that is probably more of an issue with the batch size than the pot size; and the % boil off is naturally higher as well.

So like Stakka said, it's future proofing for when you want to brew a larger batch!
 
Wow, that's not wierd at all...thinking "I didn't post this did I?" :lol:
 
For free? Even if you don't use it right away, why wouldn't you take it? Seems like a sweet deal to me.
 
the big W 19 ltr pot is only $20 and worked fine for me for a year of so, however it will become redundant at some stage. That said i made full size batches with it for most of that time!!
 
Grab the 40L and make 20-23L batches and no chill in 10L cubes, dry hop them different or throw on a different yeast or do a mini boil with different hops later. Still get two different beers all while brewing once.
 
Midnight Brew said:
Grab the 40L and make 20-23L batches and no chill in 10L cubes, dry hop them different or throw on a different yeast or do a mini boil with different hops later. Still get two different beers all while brewing once.
That seems like a really great idea that way I can get some more experience with hops as well. I've never done no chill, does it usually turn out just as good?
 
Pat0_smith said:
That seems like a really great idea that way I can get some more experience with hops as well. I've never done no chill, does it usually turn out just as good?
Here we go again................................... :ph34r:
 
haha I figured you had you just resigned-up Wbosher :lol:
 
I did think about putting a whole lot of posts in here just to confuse the hell out of everyone, but thought against it. ;)
 
Haha I shall change my picture as soon as I get back on a computer so no one gets confused.
 
Pat0_smith said:
I will when i start kegging, but for now i really don't like having to bottle that much beer at once and when making experimental beers if they don't turn out great, 10l isn't to much to get through.
What happens when you start kegging your experimental beers? You still have to get through the 19L, or dump it down the drain if it is no good. If you regularly have beers that don't turn out great maybe you need to re-***** your recipe design/sources/brewing processes before you worry too much about batch size.

I don't see bottling ~20L as much more more hassle than 10L.

If you can get a 40L pot for free then go for it. If you don't use it right away, chuck it in the shed for a future brewery addition.
 
Yep take the big one, it's the minimum size you'll need for a 20L batch. Actually probably about right for a 15L batch.
The beauty of all grain is you can make any batch size you want. Small batches in big pot - no problems. Big batch in small pot - not as easy.
There's also no need to do a full batch if you keg - you can still put 10L in a 19L keg, you'll use a touch more gas but what the hey.
 
Thanks for all the great replys, even though there seems to be a lot of advice in making bigger batches I think I will still make smaller batches and give it a go in the 40l pot and see how well it work. Or possibly making slightly larger batches and no chilling in two cubes with different dry hops.
 
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