Beer font PVC vs stainless, cost vs heat efficiency.

[claypot]

anyone got any detailed pics of where ther have shanks entering the 2" cross section? what methods are available for fitting the shanks to the the font other than the k-loc style connector?

can you just weld a 5/8 stainless socket to the font and use a locknut on the shank?

can you even get 5/8" sockets????

or i assume you use short chanks with the wave profile collar given you drilled 22mm holes?

and another question, how difficult is it to open the lid of the keezer with the font tower attached to change kegs?

"can you just weld a 5/8 stainless socket to the font and use a locknut on the shank?"
I guess you could, but would have to rely on thread tape to seal it or get creative making a seal, the fitting you attached is what I used, it seals to the tap via a silicone seal, allowing easy removal for cleaning tap, and resealing and alinement. I wouldn't use a welded socket for these reasons. The above fitting is just an easy cheap solution IMA.

" how difficult is it to open the lid of the keezer with the font tower attached to change kegs"
I've got my freezer on caster wheels and is up against a wall, simply pull out away from wall and gently open lid font isnt that heavy that it stresses the hinges or balance. make beer lines long enough and ensure they lay out the way when closing, I keep random stubbies and 2lt drafto growler in there and grab them as needed easy enough.


@Boxcar
" I plan to weld a wider SS flange onto one of the spool to allow greater support of the heavy overhang."

Yep I gave this alot of thought, with drunken mates in mind. As I was going to put it against the wall I didn't go that way and thought as I was only relying on the strenth of the ply wood there wasnt alot of gain as may of pulled through the thin ply with a big hit any way. I decided to just see how it went and would beef it up if I wasnt happy with the strenth but its actully OK, I like the clean lines with out the flange too.
If it ever fails I will probably spring for a thicker sheet of ply. I saw some bench top ply that was around 50mm at Bunnings last time, that they didn't have when I build mine that would of been sweet.

 

[Boxcar]

I decided to just see how it went and would beef it up if I wasnt happy with the strenth but its actully OK, I like the clean lines with out the flange too.

I definitely like the clean lines on your installation as well. You have the added advantage of two separate mounting points as your font is an "n" - with a "7" or sideways "L" and only one mounting point, plus large 4" piping I'm afraid the otherwise thin lip of the TC flange just isn't big enough to fit adequate bolts through - even welding from underneath there isn't much surface area.

I did come up with another idea that wouldn't involve welding. Using a 6" x 4" flat reducer, I could bolt that down and then simply clamp the upright to it. The only negative is it significantly increases the height of the font - I'd really have to swap out the 12" TC vertical spool for an 8" length. I like the benefit of keeping everything modular as I won't have tied up a spool permanently with a welded flange.

With 4" pipe there's a lot of room for lines and I'll initially have six 1/4" barrier/rigid product lines plus two 3/8 copper for glycol cooling. I'm using push-fit shanks from Krome Dispense (C-351) along with John Guest 90 degree adapters. For the back behind the nut I've purchased some plastic curved washers that are normally part of tower shanks. Need to make a design on cooling blocks to help increase the internal mass of the shanks and all the lines also fit in a foam sleeve that fills up most of the interior of the 4" pipe.

 

[koshari]

Where did you get the curved washers?

 

[Boxcar]

Where did you get the curved washers?

Chi Company, Inside Flange, part number 12B03161: https://www.chicompany.net/beer-sto...tower-shanks?zenid=p9ict71e4mu1pr55l1la8ke8n6

 

[koshari]

Shame the part plus postage almost works out as much as a complete shsnk.